I currently have a sleeved b18c1. It has a greddy kit with 18g turbo. the turbo needs a rebuild. I also have a t3 manifold and 60/63 turbo that is in great shape. should i rebuild the 18g or go for the t3.
I made 275whp on the dyno inc mustang dyno at 12 psi with the 18g.

I plan on boosting around 15psi.
thanks

 

if you have a built and sleeved GSR, why are you wasting your time w/ such a crappy turbo setup?? You could make those numbers on stock with no trouble....ditch the whole kit and get something from Peakboost.....

 

money reasons. i bought the car with the built motor and greddy kit. he bought the kit years ago then the motor needed a rebuild so he decided to go the whole nine yards. he planned on replacing the kit but didn't in the end. I myself dont have the money to do so. I have about 300$ extra. along with the greddy turbo and manifold setup and t3 manifold and turbo. I am debating on saving the maney or buying a downpipe and wastegate and putting on the t3 setup. i am not looking for high power numbers. 350whp on a dynojet would be more than great for me.

 

If you dont have a 3 bar map sensor, then get one....that will allow you to make more power on a smaller setup IF the turbo is efficient at higher boost levels....

If i had your setup, i would get a GT28rs and a 3" exhaust....that's not spending a ton of money, but if you did that, you would have a wicked street car with potential to make upper 300's low 400s depending on the fuel you use and the rest of the setup.....you can use the same manifold you already have with the GT28RS as well....

the main problem with this turbo is that for the turbo and water lines you're looking at about $1200 and another $500 for the exhaust.....after that you're done though

 

yeah i have a 3 bar map, 3inch cat-back, and 2.5 inch downpipe. the gt28r is a good way to and i was thinking that as well. i was thinking though that if i was going to go that route i would get a gt35r and make huge numbers.

 

the GT35R is such a bandwagon turbo...what are your goals because from what you've said so far, you have no need for a GT35r.....If you're looking at saving some money, the GT28rs route is still a little spendy, but totally worth it and a lot less money that completely upgrading...if you upgrade to the GT30r or GT35r, you're looking at a lot more cost....new injectors, bigger IC, bigger IC piping, new manifold, new dp, etc....

 

oh i know but if i were to spend 1500 for the gt28r for 400hp. over 350 with the t3 setup. I would rather spend 2000 for the gt 35r and get closer to 500hp. Im looking at the return for the money. I have to get something working soon and i dont have the money for either gt series tubro setup as of yet

 

What Schister66 is asking is WHY 500whp, if you don't plan to really utilize that setup? Just because you have the money to get to the 500whp level, doesn't mean its NECESSARY. Your Greddy kit for a street setup can utilize up to a GT3071R on that manifold and downpipe adapter setup. That is good to over 400whp without stressing the turbo.

Take a step back. Ride in some higher hp Honda cars if you can, and look at what you want to get because of what YOU are comfortable with. Yes, plenty here can reach that power with the internals revamped, but that's for what THEY want, and the purpose of the car. But you may be different..

 

right i understand. my father has a 700hp chevelle so its not the horsepower that worries me. Being a full time student have have a lack of funds. If I had the money I would go for a higher horsepoower setup, but i am looking for the best bang for the buck.

 

close friend of mine made 500 whp on a t3t04e. it is a popular turbo from back in the day, they are around, i believe he went 11.0x with it also.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95gsr-t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">right i understand. my father has a 700hp chevelle so its not the horsepower that worries me. Being a full time student have have a lack of funds. If I had the money I would go for a higher horsepoower setup, but i am looking for the best bang for the buck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're absolutely right, the hp should not scare you, but a 700whp RWD Chevelle, and a 500+ FWD Honda are different worlds altogether in terms of driving, use, and need. Best bang for the buck is in what works for the need of the owner, not a $ per hp approach. But, whatever suits you.

 

i say you should get a t3/T4. it's possible to customize them to make em spool up just as quick as a gt28r or to make as much power as a gt35r.

best bang for the $$ ? I would simply slap a 360 thrust, watercooling and a t04b h trim compressor on your t3 .63 turbine

 

ok let me refrase. i am looking for around 350hp. will the t3 i have be capable and at what psi? I dont believe that the 18g will work at say 15-17psi and 350hp?

 

no stock t3 supports 350 ponies.

your .63 a/r turbine CAN support 350 HP easy but not the compressor. The 60 trim compressor will barely make 300 hp. let alone 350 hp.
BUT, most T4 compressors will support 350 hp so basically, you need to hybrid this turbo.

 

Where can i find the wheel and compressor to make thew conversion. is that al i need. (then get it balancedof course.) I found a .70 a/r t04e housing and wheel, would that work. also i have seen a couple dyno charts showing this the 60/63 t3 making 290hp at 10 psi on a pretty stock gsr?

 

will this work?

 

290 hP on a t3 60 trim is very possible. But it's not because you see a dyno run that proves it's possible that the turbo necessarily likes it. as a mather of fact, the t3 60 trim is dead maxed out at 290 HP. It overheats the air a lot and overspins resulting in poor reliablity and efficiency, with the need to overboost to compensate. not good. unless all you want to do is prove it'S possible on the dyno.

Yes, a .70 a/r t04e compressor, either if it's the 46 or the 57 trim, is able of 350 HP comfortably. you need more than just the wheel and housing. You also need the backplate and since most t3 .63/60 are static seal, you need a dynamic thrust system. Yes, balancing is a must but it is just one of the many steps of a successful and reliable turbo build. you can give it a shot, but when it fails, it may grenade, damaging all those nice expensive parts and putting your car on the jackstands for another few weeks. my suggestion is: have it professionaly performed by any turbo shop and make sure your turbo assembly is warrantied.

 

yes i would have the wheel housing and backplate. and yes i would have it put together professionaly. What is the dynamic thrusts system your talking about? Im not quite clear on what that is. thanks

 

I have a line on the .70 housing wheel and backplate for $100. What would the rebuild cost with this or would it be better to purchace that and rebuild as a whole from you.? thanks

 

yeah the static thrust is basically an obsolete system that seals the compressor side by the friction between a metallic part and a spring loaded carbon seal. it sucks. We find such static seal on most factory turbos.
if you go t3-t4, they're all equipped with the dynamic seal. this one works with a piston ring just like at the turbine side.

 

t3 t4 turbos are everywhere... go to a local turbo specialist of turbo center or turbo shop and ask for some... at least then 'll know how much the turbo will be... usually new ones are from 400 - 600 depends on what u want and could be cheaper could be more... its all in the "depend" this and that