my friend and I build and tune our cars by our self, we may not be the big names on H-T if you know what I mean, but we are certified army mechanics with many years of experience, plus our experience with hondas. with that said and done.

my car 2.0l GE sleeved ls vtec motor built by me, tuned by my friend on s300 with my driving and moral support, I can tune but it is difficult while driving, fact is we are both wel experienced in tuning, and working on cars.
we will tune the car all day , get everything perfect and be happy, turned the car off, let it cool down, and then restart and the whole tune will change idleing lean, and boosting rich as hell, do it over again and same thing. reload the tune, and it does change anything .
yes we upload and save.

I just want an opinion or fact on what may be the problem why the tune keep changing?

 

samething here i just reopen my maps and download

 

check the IAT and ECT fuel corrections. chances are they are messing with your tune from the cold to hot air and coolant temps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by non-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check the IAT and ECT fuel corrections. chances are they are messing with your tune from the cold to hot air and coolant temps.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

double check those IAT/ECT tables. Also double check for boost leaks

 

we played with the corrections and so on, still changes.
no boost leaks. we think my ECT is sending false signal. I am going to replace it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudebwoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we played with the corrections and so on, still changes.
no boost leaks. we think my ECT is sending false signal. I am going to replace it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, whats it datalogging?

is the tune REALLY changing? as in numbers changing by themselves, etc. or just acting like it is?

 

it is really strange, the whole tune is changing. (as a disclaimer I know what I am doing, I've been tuning with multiple programs for a long time, and my boy is even more experienced than I am).
we tune the car impressed with perfect AFR, and EGT , and crazy display of power, we tune on long uninteruppted stretches of authobahn, we tune for 11.9- 12.1 in boost, 14.5 cruising, and 13.5 transition to boost around 3-0 vac. this time we tuned for 16 Psi will be tuning for 20 as soon as I fix this problem, still trying to find a dyno.

 

Nothing strange.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by non-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check the IAT and ECT fuel corrections. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Also check battery offset tables. Especially if your operating voltage fluctuates at all across the load, temperature, or humidity spectrums.

Actually, if your operating voltage fluctuates with humidity you need to fix your wiring. Contact grease does wonders for environmentally shielding grounds, etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also check battery offset tables. Especially if your operating voltage fluctuates at all across the load, temperature, or humidity spectrums.

Actually, if your operating voltage fluctuates with humidity you need to fix your wiring. Contact grease does wonders for environmentally shielding grounds, etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hondata S300 doesn't have battery offsets, at least not that I can find.

 

You don't need battery offset tables if the car has pristine wiring, and outputs a stable and repeatable voltage from the alternator. As OBD1/compatible Honda wiring gets older and riceboys become more enraptured with the concept of ruining cars with visually appealing (appalling?} wiring *****.... good luck with that.

 

I am gonna check all that, and gonna check my datalog to see what my battery voltage looks like, I usually don't tune or drive hard with my stereo on, so maybe night tuning with my rice boy HID kit can cause problem also.
I have a 160amp alternator so hope its doing its job.
I also reload a new S manager program to see if its a bug in the program.

 

If that's the case, you may have too much voltage if the alternator is the problem. They are supposed to regulate the voltage, and if they don't while not having to supply a crapload of amps, you could get a voltage increase. You will want to tune it exactly how you drive it, system cranked and headlights on. If the supply voltage to the injectors changes at any point, the coils will respond faster or slower, meaning adding more/less fuel.

Maybe you'll just have to concede that a turbocharged exhaust &gt; any sub-enhanced music.

 

true thats why I turn the music off during hard driving.

the voltage is right where its supposed to be ,14.5 in the s300 manager datalog.
I think the problem is the version of s manager I am using, so I reload it and I gonna try to retune this weekend, to be safe I just finish ordering a new ECT and 1AT sensor, I am also thinking of switching from saturated 750cc to peak and hold 1000cc, I have so many ideas I don't know which is the cause. so I will just eliminate them. 1 by 1.