<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackcivic95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for all of your info ,
also, you may have misunderstood, im running a d15b7, not a z6, so i import the p06 and dont mess w/ the p28</TD></TR></TABLE>
Doesn't really matter for what we're talking about. We're talking about raw fuel values, and that screenshot was just to show you how far off the startup maps are and about where you should be with those injectors, not as a map for you to directly use.

 

i just dont understand how, im running really rich, so i highlight the whole map and i -20% and i run about the same?? ive burned like 10 maps and they all run about the same but have differnt fuel values, maybe i did install the injectors wrong, dunno how, the only thing i can think of is if the reisistors have polarity which i didnt think they did

 

I burned 40+ images to get the tune running how it is right now. Don't feel bad if it takes that long. Just get it done right and don't use that narrowband AFR meter.

How's the base ignition timing? The engine ran a lot better when it was synched up to 16 deg BTDC with the Uberdata rather than running at 12 deg BTDC at idle.

 

my misunderstanding is just the fact that i can take out what seems to be so much fuel and it have hardly any effect

invtec- honestly i dont understand timing all that much, if youd like to explain what you just said in a little more detail and in simple terms i would realllly appriciate it

what i mostly grasp is that you have to retartd timing for boost, and i understand step retarding vs. linear, but thats about it

 

20% of 60 isn't a huge number, that's why it seems like you're taking away gobs of fuel and it's not changing much Plus, if you only take away 20% but you were running 10:1, well, you're still probably around 12:1.

As for the timing, he's saying you have to make sure that the timing you read off the timing light is the same as the timing you're reading in Uberdata. So burn a chip with the idle cells at 16 degrees, and then use a timing light to verify that the timing at the crank is actually 16 degrees. If it is, you're peachy, if not, tweak the distributor to bring the timing to 16 degrees.