Eight09

iTrader: (5)

I love your coolant feed! Did you just drill and tap that bolt?

titan101

Yea I am going to re weld that bracket on and get the down pipe remade and have the same shop modify my go-autoworks charge pipe kit..

titan101

on the radiator or the block?

Eight09

iTrader: (5)

On the block. A friend told me BR makes the fitting but do you have a link? Im having a difficult time navigating their site.

titan101

Yea all of my fittings are from them


http://www.brfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=39&product_id=103

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Br have great quality parts

Who made that down pipe for you op?

Looks like they made it for a motor with no radiator in mind lol

titan101

It came with the manifold. Was on a eg hatch drag car. Idk if its different because I have a T4 exhaust housing instead of T3

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

The exhaust outlet is in the same location whether or not it is T3 or T4, as they are both tangential-style housings.

Basically, the downpipe from the drag car was not made for running a traditional street-style radiator. That needs to be re-fabricated to fit properly. Do not think for one second that a change in turbine housing will reposition that for you.

titan101

Ok I am having a shop make a new down pipe for me. My next issue is today I hooked up my hondata s300 ecu and I wanted to see if my fuel pumps kick on and when the key is in the ON position all that comes on on the cluster is the battery light (solid) and no light from the ecu (its green). Everything else works like lights, radio, etc. I have no idea why I am not getting power at the ecu. Its a new rywire harness and I tested the under hood fuse panel and its getting 12.5v. Also check the 7.5a fuse and its fine. Ground locations at chassis from trans, valve cover to front clip and at the t stat housing are all cleaned and perfect. My battery is located in the rear of the car. I have a main wire from the battery to a cutoff switch then to a 100 amp circuit break then to a distribution block on the fire wall. From the distribution block to the fuse box and starter. A separate wire from the alternator back to the battery. Car is almost ready for first fire up just trying to figure this out. I have used the s300 ecu for a few years and just pulled it from my other car. I just wired up a hondata CPR kit and its all installed as per the instructions.






image upload no limit


pic upload


windows print screen

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Did you actually check for voltage at igp1 and 2?

This is an obd1 schematic

titan101

Found 4 blown fuses so it gets power now.

titan101

Been working on it for the past 2 days and cannot get the engine to fire up. The CPR seems installed correctly. The injectors are firing fuel and I checked each coil with a spark plug in it and they all fire. I checked timing 3 times and its good. No idea what to do next. Ill try different distributor internals maybe.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Have you went to hondatas site yet? They have a big thread on cpr and no start

titan101

Yea checked it nothing really on no start.

titan101

I do have a Rywire OBD1 B-series Tucked Engine Harness.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

I know with my aem cop you have to lock the timing at 16 tdc then advance the spark manually


I would check when your #1 is firing with a timing light.

KevinEF7

Lots of power wires going through an un-grommeted sharp edge hole there



No big deal

B and B

iTrader: (3)

You can get the radiator bracket at a junk yard with a cordless drill and a $7 HF spot weld cutter. Better than trying to tack that one back.

titan101

Has plastic in the hole there if you look close.

titan101

Put the timing light on and its coming up at 16 degrees on #1

titan101

Next step is put a normal distributor back on and eliminate the CPR system to see what happens. Also I will try installing the OEM cam gears over the AEM ones.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Are the plugs fouled? too much fuel?
Is this motor tuned?
Compression good?
timing good?

titan101

Plugs are fine

Its a brand new build and this is first start up. It has a base gsr tune on it with the stock injectors

I can check compression

timing checked 4 times

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

I just re read youre build. You are at 84mm 89mm stroke and huge cams


You might need to add more fuel to get that motor started.

Have you messes with cranking fuel? Or added any in the map?

Thats the next thing i would do after checking compression if the plugs arent showing huge amount of fuel.

Also is your battery fully charged? depending on how many times you have been trying to crank it i would stick it on a charger during cranking to get some good voltage. Check on your laptop if the voltage is dropping too low.

titan101

It always has the charger on it when cranking. Stays at 12.5v - 14.5v on charger. It's basically a stock gsr. I have gsr cams and injectors in it for break in. I get a little fuel on the plugs and it's set on a stock gsr map. I will do a compression test and put oem distributor on instead of the cop. I appreciate the help.