When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well its been 3 years in the making/saving and I am getting closer to completing my build. I've been lurking on the site for a few years now getting inspiration from all the different builds and I am ready to do mine. Everything is going into a 96 civic ex 2dr. Ill list the parts and a lot of pictures as I go along. At 5280' elevation my goal is 600whp.
Bottom End:
Benson sleeved 84.5mm gsr block
Micro polished LS crank
Honda bearings (.0018-.0020 mains, .0015-.0018 rods)
Moroso kicked out Pan
Gates water pump
GE sandwich plate
ARP main studs
ARP Crank pulley bolt
Speed factory outlaw turbo pistons
Manley turbo tough Rods
Oil squirter block off kit
ATi Damper
Honda Thermostat
ACL pump and gaskets
STC BB T4 terminator .84 ar exhaust (Thanks STC)
Pfab Top mount manifold
Tial wastegate 13lb spring
Tial BOV
Go-Autoworks 3" intercooler piping
Speedfactory double back door 1100HP intercooler
3" vband downpipe with loud valve
Hondata 4 port EBC
Trans: GSR
Albins B Series 1-4 Helical Synchro Set 3.0 x 1.87 x 1.33 x 1.0
Albins B Series Final Drive 4.23:1 Low Helix GSR/ITR bore 117mm
Speedfactory Racing B Series Shift Change Holder - New Unit with HD Spring
Synchrotech Acura ITR/GSR/B16/B18C Master rebuild kit
Included: 1-5 Pro-Series Carbon Lined Synchros, 1-5 synchro springs, 1-5
slider sleeves, 5 shaft bearings, bearing clip, 2 axle seals, input seal, shift
rod seal, and a new dust boot. Also includes 3-4 Center Hub.
Misc:
Hondata s300 V3
Hondata CPR
Spal 13" fan
GO-Autoworks Radiator
BWR breather kit
Dynamic Performance Satter Shield
CC twin disc stage C
Wilwood 12" front/rear brake kit
toyo R888 225/45/16 tires
Drag dr 31 wheels
arp extended wheel studs
BWR Coilovers
BWR camber kits/ rear toe kits
ASR rear subframe brace and sway bar
Poly bushings all around
Manual rack and pinion
BWR extended lower ball joint
DSS 5.9 axles and hub
Last edited by titan101; 07-17-2017 at 10:30 AM.
Reason: Update
one comment/concern though, I hope that paint you used on the engine was rated for high temps, standard paint is only good to 250F and you'll have issues with it cracking, flaking and peeling around the turbo manifold, turbo, and block. as the radiant heat from all those components is murder on coatings
Yes sir I used Duplicolor Engine Enamel primer/base/clear good for 500 degrees and I will also be adding a turbo blanket and wrapping the down pipe and dump tube.
Yes sir I used Duplicolor Engine Enamel primer/base/clear good for 500 degrees and I will also be adding a turbo blanket and wrapping the down pipe and dump tube.
Good to know, one time I wasn't paying attention and grabbed what I thought was a can of high temp silver, turns out someone put a standard temp paint can in with the high temp stuff..
even with ceramic coating, wrapping, and a turbo blanket it started peeling and flaking and I didn't know why, till I went back and read the can...
biggest pain in the *** ever lol
I'm definitely in for results. Shodan builds some incredible turbos (have one myself) but I've never seen many people utilize a T4 version of his offerings so I'm curious as to how it will perform vs a T3 version.
plus it is very refreshing to see someone building a setup the right way without cutting corners... it seems like a lot of people here lately are trying to turbo their car as cheaply as possible using only the bare minimum to get by. a lot of people should use your build (and many other builds posted lately) as a guide on how to do it right the first time.
Good to know, one time I wasn't paying attention and grabbed what I thought was a can of high temp silver, turns out someone put a standard temp paint can in with the high temp stuff..
even with ceramic coating, wrapping, and a turbo blanket it started peeling and flaking and I didn't know why, till I went back and read the can...
biggest pain in the *** ever lol
I'm definitely in for results. Shodan builds some incredible turbos (have one myself) but I've never seen many people utilize a T4 version of his offerings so I'm curious as to how it will perform vs a T3 version.
plus it is very refreshing to see someone building a setup the right way without cutting corners... it seems like a lot of people here lately are trying to turbo their car as cheaply as possible using only the bare minimum to get by. a lot of people should use your build (and many other builds posted lately) as a guide on how to do it right the first time.
When I initially got it it had a T3 exhaust housing on it but my full race manifold was T4 so I just switched the housing. If I run into any issues I have an adapter plate and the old T3 housing. Received a great deal on the manifold so I didn't really want to buy another one.
Is this going to be a "street" car, or weekend/race type car?
Only reason is....
I know that with high-quality forged internals, the factory oil-squirters aren't "needed" persay, but if you plan on driving with this setup regularly, say, in traffic, I would recommend keeping the oil-squirters for extra WEAR protection and piston cooling.
On a forged piston? Not really. There are plenty of daily driven turbocharged cars with forged internals that haven't used the squirters, didn't need them, and run perfectly fine. Even in all iron as well as aluminum blocks. From the B18B1 to the 4B11, these squirters on built engines aren't a requirement, and at that point, don't add much of a safety measure. They aren't worth fighting to keep, honestly.
If I remember right, the oil squirters were to prevent the cast pistons from getting too hot and expanding too much. Forged pistons dont need to worry about this since they expand so little vs cast pistons and are more tolerant to heat.
If I remember right, the oil squirters were to prevent the cast pistons from getting too hot and expanding too much. Forged pistons dont need to worry about this since they expand so little vs cast pistons and are more tolerant to heat.
Forged expands more then cast. But when you build the motor you make sure you have a proper PTW clearance.
Is this going to be a "street" car, or weekend/race type car?
Only reason is....
I know that with high-quality forged internals, the factory oil-squirters aren't "needed" persay, but if you plan on driving with this setup regularly, say, in traffic, I would recommend keeping the oil-squirters for extra WEAR protection and piston cooling.
On a forged piston? Not really. There are plenty of daily driven turbocharged cars with forged internals that haven't used the squirters, didn't need them, and run perfectly fine. Even in all iron as well as aluminum blocks. From the B18B1 to the 4B11, these squirters on built engines aren't a requirement, and at that point, don't add much of a safety measure. They aren't worth fighting to keep, honestly.
Originally Posted by titan101
Will be weekend/race type car
Sounds good. Like I stated above, with forged internals, the squirters are not "needed" although do help with cylinder lubrication and piston cooling, regardless of piston material and differences in expansion.
It was merely a SUGGESTION (if the engine was seeing alot of street driving) and NOT a "warning" or anything of that nature, but they were put there for a reason from the factory.
Granted, a weekend/race oriented car will not need the squirters at all. Might aswell take advantage of the extra oil pressure.
03-20-2014, 08:35 AM
Titan101's GSR 2.0L Interceptor / Terminator Build Expansion
