2kdrift

Tried searching cant find quite what im looking for. need to know what you guys think about throttle body sizing. Looking to make 400 HP. Already ordered a B16B TB from ebay (60MM??) I have a 68MM omni but im getting rid of it. But i could always return the b16b one and go with a skunk2 ALPHA 68MM if necesarry. Prefer to keep my low end so im hoping stock will be ok?

Engine:
B18c1 Block
eagle rods, Wiseco Low comp pistons (IIRC it comes out to about 9.5:1)
B16a2 Head, GSR Cams, Supertech valve train
Skunk2 intake manifold
Type R trans

Fuel:
walbro 255
ID 1000cc injectors
aem fuel rail/FPR

Turbo;
Go autoworks "prokit"
Ramhorn manifold
skunk2 3' catback

T3 Bullseye Power Batmowheel B252 -52MM Billet Compressor Wheel
-.55 a/r stainless turbine housing
-550hp rating

NVturbo

Even with the stock throttle body, you can still make your projected HP. You left out the MOST IMPORTANT PIECE....engine management setup.

4drEF

Is there a reason you want to go with low compression pistons?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Because of ****-water gas in Hawaii is 91, like in California. And before you start the E85 Corn-syrup rebuttal, It's not that available there, nor should it be.

Camdizawg has a good potential setup here. Although it may take a little more boost pressure to get 400whp with that Batmowheel. Its basically smaller than what everyone here knows to be a T3/T04E "50 trim", with a much larger exhaust wheel that can hurt recovery spool in between gears.

But the rest seems relatively sound.

2kdrift

The parts were Installed over a year ago, If i had to do it over yes I would go with higher comp, although car still has plenty of power in its current NA state. I got them in a trade i traded a GSR transmission for a B18c1 block that needed a rebuild, Eagle Rods, Wiseco Pistons and Arp Rod Bolts


@Nvturbo Engine Management has not been purchased (car is currently is NA using a basemap so it runs with my injectors) Still working out my tuner for all this and leaning twards HONDATA

@TheShodan Thanks you always have such great Info!

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

I run a stock ITR throttle body making 800 plus wheel horsepower. You will be good to go

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Stay away from the Skunk2 stuff. They've been suffering from horrible sticking issues. The 68mm omni is more than adequate. If it isn't sticking and isn't broken then there's no point in changing it. There's no difference between a billet and cast throttle body other than looks and weight. They will both function the same and make the same power.

However if you haven't enlarged the opening of the intake manifold to match the larger throttle body then there's no gains to be had from using a larger throttle body. The smaller diameter opening is what limits flow.

2kdrift

Very true I might just take your recommendation after all. My OMNI works great just the idle adjust screw pisses me off sometimes lol. Some slight IDLE issues which im sure will work out once It gets tuned. I have a skunk2 manifold which is 70MM i Believe and the 70mm skunk2 thermal gasket to match the manifold

Thanks for the info

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I've had more issues with the Skunk2 Billet Series, not the Alpha 70mm series. There have been very few issues if any with those. But I'll take the Alpha 70mm over that Omni ****. It doesn't even have a fine idle screw.

2kdrift

Yes that is my issue exactly...Ive only been looking at the alpha series as well, Billet it just to costly and seems unnecessary... I only see 66mm and 70mm in the alpha series, is 70MM overkill for a 400 HP setup?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

One of our forum sponsors sells quality 68mm and 70mm cast throttle bodies for well under 100 dollars. I haven't heard much in the way of negative reviews, everyone seems to like it and it works flawlessly

I'll try and find the link here in a bit.

blackeg

i use the stock tb for with 500 hp but thats on a victorx with that pretty big plenum. i also have that alpha 66mm tb i had on my n/a lsvtec. it doenst stick, the return spring is softer than oem. i did have to clock the tps sensor pretty far to get it close to within spec and then just adjust the max/min voltages in the neptune to final calibrate it.


for your goals i wouldnt find it necessary to go bigger than 66mm, but an oem 60 or itr 62mm will do just fine imo

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I've got a 70mm on my 220whp NA setup. So, no.

NVturbo

You can't go wrong with Hondata. You can actually use an LS throttle body if need to. Just make sure to pick up those "paper throttle body gaskets" and trim it accordingly so you won't have any vacuum leaks. Don't ask how I know.

2kdrift

Haha thanks I chose to go with thermal gaskets with correct sizing to avoid that issue

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Get an aem ems tons better than hondata


I would not buy another omni throttle body based off the one i have. It sticks alot and cant fix it

2kdrift

Try adjusting the bolt a lil bit (idle control) seemd to fix that issue I had with it when i first got it. But yeaah im not a big fan of it either

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

I tried it all. I just adjusted the throttle to stay open just a timy bit. Cabt get the idle lower than 1100 rpm but its fine.

LightningTeg

Stock throttle body.

extremeracer

I agree stock throttle body, I made 520whp with a stock B16A intake manifold and a custom 64mm throttle body. When I stepped up to a VictorX manifold I went with the 70mm Skunk throttle body to eliminate restrictions, which has worked well for me.

accordturb96

If your IC piping and IC is the same size as your current throttle body then going bigger wouldn't make sense. But most of us run stock and are well into the power