Alight, before everyone flames me to hell and back...Search funciton doesn't seem to be working. If anyone has good links/advice that would help me research and answer my own questons feel free to post them. I've read plenty of stuff on the web thus far...

Basically I'm beginning to shop for parts for my EK hatch...The biggest decision for me right now is the following

Go with an LS Block or a GSR Block + head ? What's the pros / cons ? Right now I know that the GSR block has oem oil squirters whereas the LS block does not. What are the other major DESIGN differences ?

Please note - Whatever block I get is going to GE for sleeves, block guard etc...It'll be fully built and right now I'm looking at a 60-1 or a T04B turbo, aem standalone is going to keep everything running.


[Modified by Prod, 6:53 PM 10/23/2002]

 

Well i'll help ya out. I'm sure if I get the ball rolling other people will jump in(or on)

Anyways you're wanting to know the difference's between the GS-R and LS blocks. Well there are a good many, i'll start with whats the same.

Similarites: GS-R vs LS

Bore - Both share a 81mm bore, you can swap pistons between the 2
DOHC - Both are dual over head cam designs
well thats about it as far as similarites..

Differences: GS-R vs LS

Block:
GS-R: Oil squirters(cools pistons). 3 row girdle on the middle 3 main caps(provide addition support for bottom-end).
LS: no oil squirters, no girdle

The GS-R and LS have different crank strokes and rod lengths

R/S ratio:
GS-R - 1.57:1, slighty better r/s ratio for higher revving(whooptie-doo)
LS - 1.54:1

Valvetrain:
GS-R - DOHC VTEC, stock redline 8000. Peak HP 7400-ish
LS - DOHC non-VTEC, stock redline 7000. Peak HP 6400-ish

GS-R engine design is vastly different from an LS, and it is better for the most part. Tho that higher-revving, better power making improvement comes at a cost, as GS-R block usually run quite a bit more than an LS. Personally, I'm perfectly happy my Boosted LS block.

Honestly, if you're just gonna ship your block off to GE, i'd get an LS. It'll be cheaper, and parts are just as easy to find. The money you save by not being a VTEC beeoch can go towards other things like forged internals, or your AEM.

Since you're going GE, you'll prolly be using an 84mm bore too. I that case you'll be running a 2.0L engine. You'll want the 60-1.

 

How much does the girgle help? Enough to make it worth getting installed into a LS block? How about the oil squirters? How much do those help? Thanks.


[Modified by Eluzion, 8:00 PM 10/23/2002]

 

Girdle, Girlde....... now there's a can of worms. There are many different opinions about that, but most people will agree that it does help. I mean if it's on a GS-R from the factory it got to be worth something right?

However, getting on installed on an LS block can be a daunting task. To PROPERLY install one you'll need to do all THIS. There are other ways to do it. I've done it another way, but that's neither here nor there. The website in my sig has a page that lists how to do it.

Oil squirters......hmmm. Personally I don't see the point. any aftermarket pistons have vastly better cooling than the stock cast slugs. Thats mainly what the oil squirters are for, to keep the stock pistons cool. They don't really lubricate the bottom-end that much.


[Modified by Speed PHreak, 3:46 PM 10/23/2002]

 

speed - Thanks for the input man

One thing you mentioned that got my attention was the block girdle...I know that Z10 has a CNC'd block girdle for the LS Block, looks like I'm going to be doing some research on that piece.

As far as R/S Ratio I'm probably going to stick to the stock ratio. I haven't researched yet but I think going to some custom ratio would probably be too costly unless theres some off the shelf common configurations available...
Hmm VTEC, don't care if I have it or not (might get disabled anyways)...I just want to go with the most sound block for my foundation. The head doesn't matter much to me either as I'll be getting work done on that as well.

 

OT : when sleeving a block... gsr or ls... is it important to upgrade the oil / cooling systems at all?... i have searched and gotten conflicting information... thanks...

 

PROD:

Z10........ummm yeah. Another can of worms. Basically it's a bolt on with the proper GS-R components. However, read through the link I posted earlier an you'll learm that the Z10 girdle needs to have dowels installed in it also. To run either a Z10 or a mod'd GS-R girdle, you need 6 GS-R girdle main bolts, a GS-R oil pickup, a GS-R windage tray, and a GS-R oil pan.

Dicking around with r/s ratio's isn't to expensive. I'd leave it alone, You want r/s ratio bore out a b16 to 84mm. You'll only get a 1.8L, but you'll have that lovely 1.74:1 ratio the B16 sports. Though revving to 10K and boosting is kinda retarded and asking for trouble, plus you'll need a pretty good flowing turbo to suppot that kinda RPM range.

1.8T_EG:

Depends on your situation and how healthy your wallet is. As far as cooling goes the stock Honda cooling system works really well. That is if you're using a full width radiatior like the older civics, and all the 'teg's/ 'ludes. The wimpy half length radiatior in the 92+ civics is hreat for space saving, but can't quite hold up to a turbo cars cooling needs sometimes. The Del Sol VTEC(B16) had a dual core 1/2 length that is highly sought after and a better choice if you want to keep space free up front. Some tricks can be done of course to make the cooling system work better, running Water Wetter, getting a lower temp thermostat, a higher pressure radiator cap.....all those will help lower your cooling systems operating temp.

As far as your oil system, there are many different opinions on what oil brand works best, synthetic versus conventional, ect. Best thing i've done for my oiling system up to this point is adding an external oil cooler. By doing that I increased my oil capacity by a 1/2 quart, and let car run significantly cooler. I'm not sure how much it affected my oil temp, but it lowered my overall water temp by 5~10 degree's on average. Oil is the lifeblood of your engine, so the better you can keep it at a consistent temp, the safer your engine will be.

Also the LS and B16A benefit from replacement their stock oil pumps with a GS-R/ITR/B20. Those oil pump out flow the LS/B16A oil pumps by a good margin, which is always good.

 

When you search, make sure to switch to "archived posts" or else you won't be searching all of the posts.

 

You sir are a tool.