ludesrv

Alright guys. I did some research and I'm thinking about turboing my D series, SOHC ZC powered EF civic. I'm gonna replace the rods with LS rods, machined to fit the stock crank. New bearings and rings. At the same time that's happening I was thinking of tapping in the oil lines (not sure where to go off, but my bro and his friend (phatgsr on honda-tech) would be my guides if I went this way (all motor D series = not enough jam for my liking) For the top end I was gonna keep it stock. Just a combustion chamber clean up and what not.

I was gonna run stock intake system, with prelude 345CC (stock) injectors. I was gonna run a turbo, not sure on what, but I wanna boost 10psi for 2000rpm of my powerband, so I'm gonna need some help on selecting it. I was gonna run the HF manifold, but I might fab one up that would flow better. Custom pipin going to FMIC and exhaust would be 2 inch, maybe 2 1/4, depending on what you guys think, with gutted cat all the way to a stock gutted muffler with a pea shooter exit, too keep the cops of this 'Improper muffler' stuff. What they don't know, don't hurt them. Anyways.

Tell me what you guys think. Is 10 PSI acheivable? I wanna reach 200whp, enough for a daily/winter beater if possible. I'll take what it gets. Should I P&P my head? I'm leaning against it, trying to keep the cost down. Hit me up with ideas, my ears are wide open.

oscarmayer

you do realise that by the time you finish paying for the machining work on the LS rods, not to mention the piston wrist pin is larger than the stocker D so it needs to be pushed to use a smaller pin then you coudl have bought a set of eagle rods for nearlt the same cost.

something to think about.

AbitAvenger

LS rods are a waste of money...

If you plan on taking the pistons and rods out, save up the cash and put something forged in and you'll thank yourself later when you get the itch to turn up the boost. If you don't wanna do that then just keep it stock, do the normal wear and tear maitenence that you think might need to be done before boost, and then boost it

200hp on a stock D is achievable reliably as long as you get good parts and a good tune

goodluck

ludesrv

Good tune is nothing to be worried about. I'm gonna see about getting Splitfire up here to do it, they seem really good concidering they boosted there race car to over 1000whp, adleast I think they got 1000whp, I know they where in the high 800 running 8seconds on the 1/4.

Anyways, if the LS rods are garbage, I might aswell not replace them. I'm not looking for more then 10 psi on a daily. If I do I'll pick a better engine to boost haha. Should I be worried about stock rods or pistons failing? Should I be worried about new honda piston rings failing? What usually fails on a similar setup? I wanna know what to do to make it reliable. I work in a machine shop so machining cost is nothing to be worried about.

What turbo would be nice. I was told a T3 would actually work for what I want. I was also told a 14B would work, but not be able to hold 10psi. What would a ZC be able to handle? I'm willing to do the research if someone points me in the right way. I don't wanna blow the ZC and have to do an engine swap.

AbitAvenger

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludesrv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good tune is nothing to be worried about. I'm gonna see about getting Splitfire up here to do it, they seem really good concidering they boosted there race car to over 1000whp, adleast I think they got 1000whp, I know they where in the high 800 running 8seconds on the 1/4.

Anyways, if the LS rods are garbage, I might aswell not replace them. I'm not looking for more then 10 psi on a daily. If I do I'll pick a better engine to boost haha. Should I be worried about stock rods or pistons failing? Should I be worried about new honda piston rings failing? What usually fails on a similar setup? I wanna know what to do to make it reliable. I work in a machine shop so machining cost is nothing to be worried about.

What turbo would be nice. I was told a T3 would actually work for what I want. I was also told a 14B would work, but not be able to hold 10psi. What would a ZC be able to handle? I'm willing to do the research if someone points me in the right way. I don't wanna blow the ZC and have to do an engine swap.</TD></TR></TABLE>I have a stock Z6(except for ARP headstuds) with a JG fab long mani and 14B running 8psi right now and it feels great. I plan on turning it up to 10 daily and 12 at the track. It's all in the tune . 14B has no problem on a Z6 with 10psi, and it spools up quick and I see full boost in no time.

D's are said to be good to 250hp stock block with a great tune (usually except headstuds since the head is prone to lifting under boost)

I checked compression of my motor to make sure it was consistent (clicked over to 200k today, pulled 180 on all 4 cylinders when compression tested), replaced the water pump, timing belt, headgasket and headstuds and then boosted it. If you have any other specific questions feel free to PM me

RyanEJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oscarmayer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you do realise that by the time you finish paying for the machining work on the LS rods, not to mention the piston wrist pin is larger than the stocker D so it needs to be pushed to use a smaller pin then you coudl have bought a set of eagle rods for nearlt the same cost.

something to think about.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought you said Eagle was crap?