hey been thinkingon a fully built h23 with t3t4 turbo set up

just had a few Questions and yes i did search...

i hear the block itself doesnt hold up good with boost is it the closed and open deck design the block walls are weak what?

wut problems will i have runnign say about 8 pbs of boost?

any one have any pics of h23 motors in ek's or just h23 with turbo set ups...

ive had 2 all motor h22a's but now *** all abotu turbos and bear with me plz lol

if u guys have any installing/wiring diagrams or a parts list of the swap in a ek that would be great....

 

Search for the Official Prelude Turbo thread. It has a LOT of useful info on these motors.

The H23's main weakpoints are its pistons. They tend to blow around 12psi. The ringlands will crap out at the first hint of detonation, making tuning hard.

In order to get around this problem, you must use forged pistons...which only works on aftermarket rods, or on rebushed stock rods. The only aftermarket rods out for H23's are the expensive Crower's.

In order to run forged pistons, you must sleeve. The FRM lining on H-motors does not allow for running forged pistons.

If you have any more questions, SEARCH. It's all been covered before.

 

my friend has a turbo h23 accord . . . he has not had problems with his motor at all. He was even having boost creep at the track hitting like 18psi on his stock motor . . . I gota say I wanted to put a h23 in my 4 door civic . . . . those ******* got some nice trq . . . .

he's only running a mitsubish 14b though, I can't wait until he slaps on a bigger turbo, but he's just happy being boosted

 

Fully built H23 will be fine. Run a closed deck block whenever possible.

 

All h23a's are closed deck. You can run 8psi all day long on a stock bottom h23a as long as you tune it and have the proper fuel upgrades.

https://honda-tech.com/gara...d=238

 

when u say proper tuning wut exactly do u mean when it comes to turbos? and same goes for fuel managment...

oih and thanx to all those that added their advice.. sum forums are alot better then others

 

It means you properly adjust the fuel curves and ignition tables. With turbo you need to pull timing away, so you want to pull about .75 degrees of timing per psi of boost. You can only do so with a nice EMS though or other timing retard devices such as crane and MSD. As far as fueling goes with turbo, you need to run richer then with NA.... around a 11.0:1-12.0:1 afr is generally where you will get the most power yield. Each motor is different though.

If you want a fully blown explanation on tuning go here:

http://www.hondata.com/tech.html

Go to the TUNING GUIDE section.