so my set up is a jg sleeved b20 block and i'm going to be in the 400-500hp range when its done and i'm wondering if i should just not worry about running a thermostat? i mean its one more part to fail, and if i just dont run one then ill always have maximum coolant flow through the engine.
this is just the way that i'm seeing things, so i'm looking for other opinions

 

If its run only in the summer maybe. It would suck *** to drive in the cold.

My tstat was stuck open in my turbo integra for a month into the winter and it would hover around 155-160 on the highway which was uncool.

 

Definitely run the thermostat

 

if is a race car only ???

 

You need a thermostat

 

the car won't be ran in the winter, and almost never when its cold out.

 

it's going to be one of my street cars, that will be taken to the track also

 

Yes definitely thermostat.

I would even in a racecar too. Repeatable consistancy lol.

 

http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1635

Thermostat.

With the OEM ecu, or aftermarket, its critical to allow the engine to operate at a minimum of 175-180 coolant temperature. If the engine is not coming up past 175 degrees, the ecu is still in warm up temperature trim for the fueling. This means that the engine will run overly rich condition. I have tuned cars on the dyno that have colder thermostats (160 degree) and no thermostats, and are able to get up to operating temperature (above 175) due to the poor airflow condition that a dyno has. While street tuning the engine tune is thrown off greatly (i.e very rich) due to the radiator getting adequate airflow, and causing the engine to operate at 150-160 degrees coolant temperature. The thermostats have to be taken out, or added (in the case of not having one) in order to get the car to have any consistency from the tuning on the dyno. If you have a cooling issue, colder thermostats or no thermostats are masking the issue and will make the tune have no consistency!!!

 

Run the thermostat...you may not even get the engine to the correct operating temp without it. IDK how large your radiator is, but i could see that being a very real problem. Its like an $8 part...

*EDIT* Read above post...he put it much better than i did. I guess thats why you read threads before posting

 

Wow, nice post there for a fairly new guy, 00si2

 

Id like to take credit but that was a copy paste job from evans-tuning link

 

Either way, you found good info that fit the issue at hand...and were honest about it. You'll fit in nicely around here

 

thanks a lot man for the link and the detailed reply!
sounds like i'll be running a thermostat

 

Speaking of this is there any reason to run aftermarket (mugen/sk2) thermostats and 1.3 rad caps on street/strip boosted cars or is it not even worth it....?

 

Not to thread jack but I have a 16lb cap that came with my Full-Race radiator and it never opens, is that a good or bad thing...?
The hottest the car has ever gotten is 205* on the highway while crusing @ 4400rpm for about 30 minates, would it run cooler with a cap that opens?

 

not warm coolant = ecu will make the motor run rich

 

AKA - Open Loop.

 

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