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test pipe problems!!!

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Old 10-12-2003, 05:36 PM
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Default test pipe problems!!!

1st off- i hate the way it sounds and im going to put on the cat next weekend, but
for now i have to live with it...basically my car is bogging at low rpms? BTW - with the test pipe i installed a greddy evo catback, yet i think that this problem is irrelevant to the bogging.
ok, installed test pipe couple days ago for my 98 obd2 prelude.. pipe was 2.5 and has nut welded on top for o2 sensor..

after install the car ran fine and nothing was wrong.. no CEL no problems at idle...After driving the car for a couple hours the CEL came on the freeway...

Yesterday im trying to take the test pipe off and the damn exhaust bolts just wont budge so im going to wait till my friend and i can use his air tools to zing them off..or just drill them off..

but after the failed attempt to put the cat back on the 1st time...i decided to reset the ecu so i took out the clock fuse?? ( is that even correct? ) and let it sit for about 15 minutes...starting my car back up with the pipe installed is causing the car to just bog at low rpms...in neutral if i rev to 3k, then it'll just go down to around 200..100 rpms and 30% of the time just die... i assumed the car was just remapping because i let it sit for about 8 minutes and the car ran fine..no CEL no problems...

today while driving i noticed the car was doing the bogging low rpm problem again? what can i do to stop this until i put the cat back on?

im thinking of a resistor or some other jerry rigging ideas.. but im sure h-t has a better idea?


Old 10-12-2003, 09:41 PM
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Default Re: test pipe problems!!! (SsTiNgEr77)

reset your ECU by disconnecting your negative battery cable. I've heard that the test pipe CEL (b/c of the secondary o2) should NOT effect performance, so therefore, you have another problem. Bogging at low RPM's is somthing you have to live w/ when you put a free flowing exhaust on a honda (how's the high side?) but it shouldn't be rediculous, just weaker. The truth is, when you do things like headers / full exhuast / test pipe etc, what your really doing is TRADING low end power for more power on the top end. It's really hard to CREATE power, N/A, but moreso you can focus the powerband to be stronger on the top-- good for racing, shitty for the street- it's not the whole story, but definatley not inaccurate. Good luck.
Old 10-12-2003, 09:51 PM
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Default

thanks for the reply, i'll reset the ecu, but i would believe that the exchange of low end for high end is true with bolt ons... but its just, i wouldn't believe that if in neutral i rev to 3k... then let go of the gas, why would the engine hit 200 rpm maybe 100 then just shut down? it dosen't happen 100% of the time... only on occasion..

with that said.. any other thoughts?
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