Has anyone else had horrible problems with a techedge wideband unit?

I just found out today that mine is reading way off. We tuned my friend's car with a my techedge... got it to a solid 12:1 under boost. He went to they dyno today, and their a/f monitor (not sure what they were useing becauseI wasn't there) read 14:1 under boost. Needless to say, he blew his motor on the dyno (JE pistons, crower rods, b18c).

I blew my stock internals GSR (cracked lands)... and now I know why. Anyone have a problem like this with a techedge unit?

 

dont have one yet, but would also like to know answer, thats scares me, i was gunna run the diy unit

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acura_I-RS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont have one yet, but would also like to know answer, thats scares me, i was gunna run the diy unit</TD></TR></TABLE>

me too

How do we know it the WB is accurate? Hope its not just an exspensive verison of the Autometer A/F guage...

 

Mine (v1.0) is pretty much dead-on accurate.

Did you build it yourself or was it a completed unit from Techedge? New O2 sensor, or used? How many miles? Did you check to make sure your O2 unit was operating at the right temp?

 

sucks to hear about it bro... got me concerned, because i also have the techedge unit... hmmm...

 

If you have the DIY kit, did you make sure to calibrate the unit before use?

 

There is a way to calibrate the Techedge Units. I am not 100% sure because i have not bought it yet, but i remember reading it in the past.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DeepSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is a way to calibrate the Techedge Units. I am not 100% sure because i have not bought it yet, but i remember reading it in the past. </TD></TR></TABLE>

here's a link to the PDF file on how to caibrate the unit.

http://www.techedge.com.au/veh...l.pdf

 

works like a charm for me

 

if you bought a prebuilt one it should be calibrated right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blufke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you bought a prebuilt one it should be calibrated right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

"Should be" is the operative part of this...you have to remember that each o2 sensor will vary slightly. I've bought two prebuilt v1.5's and had to calibrate both of them before use. Once calibrated I haven't had any problems with them being inaccurate when compared to my local dyno's wbo2.

--Ian

 

Ummm, Jeremy, we tuned my car with your wideband kit too remember? My car has been fine ever since then and I ran it at Bandi a week or so ago too. I hope the wideband was working fine when we did my car...sigh. I have my own wideband kit coming in soon, thank goodness I can go over the tune again...

Justin

 

I think you're ok justin.... The original one that I got at first fried AGAIN (loose wire in the display unit connected itself somewhere it shouldn't have)... and hal just traded me my old (fired) one for one of his personal units.

The motors started blowing as soon as I tuned cars with this new unit. So... I'm thinking that something is calibrated wrong with this new unit... but the old one was fine. Hal will check it out for me.. so I'm going to try and find time to go rop it off with him and get the diagnosis.

Besides... if your was tuned improperty, you'd know it by now. When I retuned my car with this new unit, I cracked 4 ring lands within 2 weeks. You're fine Justin... I would've called you (and everyne that has used my unit before) if I thought otherwise.

 

Is there even a way to calibrate the 1.0 version unit?

 

Yea I'm not terribly worried about it. You're right, if it was a bad tune my motor would have been toast by now Good news is I finally got a wideband sensor and 1.0 TE kit coming. But I think I'm going to get a 1.1 or 1.5 version TE kit instead. Maybe sell the 1.0...

Justin

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by servion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think you're ok justin.... The original one that I got at first fried AGAIN (loose wire in the display unit connected itself somewhere it shouldn't have)... and hal just traded me my old (fired) one for one of his personal units.

The motors started blowing as soon as I tuned cars with this new unit. So... I'm thinking that something is calibrated wrong with this new unit... but the old one was fine. Hal will check it out for me.. so I'm going to try and find time to go rop it off with him and get the diagnosis.

Besides... if your was tuned improperty, you'd know it by now. When I retuned my car with this new unit, I cracked 4 ring lands within 2 weeks. You're fine Justin... I would've called you (and everyne that has used my unit before) if I thought otherwise.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the display is most likely the problem then,it has to be calibrated to the wideband unit that it will be used with,so if you mix them ,then you have to recalibrate the display.they are easy to calibrate,just find a good volt meter and a flathead screwdriver,your also going to need a potentometer from radio shack,a few good d size batteries and a 1.8k resistor.

im using a diy kit ,but im not tunning with it,im going to put it on a dyno and compare them first.

 

Dang Servion, Sorry to hear that. I remember you were saying something about the techedge while we were adjusting my timing. I've never heard anyone having those calibratin problems with the FJO, so I safe (hopefully). There are instructions for creating the 'Volts to AFR table' on the AEM EMS board. I guess the FJO is a better product? Maybe?

Bottoz

 

I dunno man... I want to get to the bottom of the problem before making any decisions either way. Hal is going to check out the WB for me.. and we'll see what he says. Maybe it is some sort of grounding issue.... rest assured I will figure out the problem.

Hey bottoz... how's the car runnin? When do I get a ride with your new ignition map?

 

hey gruvy.... how do you get the WB signal to your ECU for tuning?

I picked up one of those 9-pin connetors at radio shack and sodlered a ground wire and a signal wire to the corresponding pins. During use, I wrap the ground wire around one of the bolts that normally holds the ecu up and use a quick disconnect to unplug the stock O2 signal and insert in the WB signal....

 

... hmmm... hal built my techedge too... but since i dont have any fuel management, i never got around to installing it... oh well, i guess i will have to test it with a dyno now...

 

you can blow a motor under boost at only 14:1? so what should you start with and how far off 12:1 can you go before reaching danger levels? i was gonna tune with just an a/f meter 'temporarily' since the kit costs as much as my whole setup..

 

whatever you do, don't tune with ajust a a/f meter hooked to a stock o2.... you will not be even close to what you need to me. Narrowband o2's (aka stock o2's) can oly tell you if you are above or below 14.7:1.... not by how much. If you're going stndalone, you MUST tune. Otherwise, an FMU can get you by

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blufke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you bought a prebuilt one it should be calibrated right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, they do "calibrate" the units before shipping them off, but your unit actually needs to be calibrated to YOUR sensor that you plan on using. So it will be shipped a little "off". There is nothing that Tech Edge can do about that, although I find their lack of telling people about this disturbing. Calibration is easy if you have a digital multimeter.

 

whos hal and how much does he charge?

 

He's a guy who assembles them and sells the whole kit in my area.... he does a good job and backs it up too... but I think he might be out of the sensors... I'm talking to him tomorrow... and if he wants some publicity I'll post up his contact info.