Tach Jumping in higher rpms?? HELP
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From: here n there n everywhere
Hey i just got my turbo setup tuned and it runs real nice.
BUT
After i get into the vtec range (>5-6krpms) the tach jumps around like its losing signal or something. We had a similar issue on the dyno with the dyno tach losing signal trying to read off my spark wires.
I am going to get new plugs, wires, a cap and a rotor right now, do you think this will fix the problem or do you think i need a whole new distributor?
Thanks for the help! need advice asap
BUT
After i get into the vtec range (>5-6krpms) the tach jumps around like its losing signal or something. We had a similar issue on the dyno with the dyno tach losing signal trying to read off my spark wires.
I am going to get new plugs, wires, a cap and a rotor right now, do you think this will fix the problem or do you think i need a whole new distributor?
Thanks for the help! need advice asap
When I first got mine together the tach jumped a little bit at around 7k with my plug gap at around .32, lowered it to .30 without changing anything else and fixed the problem. Maybe give it a try.
Dont waste your money plugs, wires, cap, rotor. None of it is responsible for the RPM signal. Sounds like your having an issue with the cam/crank sensors in the distributor.
Whats your ignition setup like?
Whats your ignition setup like?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: here n there n everywhere
stock ignition
the tach reads perfect til about 6-7k+. Got some new sparks, rotor and cap, going to install now with a .3 gap, ill let you know how it goes
Think the dizzy itself might need replacing? The mechanics at the dyno said the bearing that spins the rotor can go bad after a while (original dizzy, 13yrs old) and that can loosen the bearing making the rotor lose contact at higher rpms, think this might be it?
Thanks
the tach reads perfect til about 6-7k+. Got some new sparks, rotor and cap, going to install now with a .3 gap, ill let you know how it goes
Think the dizzy itself might need replacing? The mechanics at the dyno said the bearing that spins the rotor can go bad after a while (original dizzy, 13yrs old) and that can loosen the bearing making the rotor lose contact at higher rpms, think this might be it?
Thanks
Check your engine grounds and make sure those are all tight.. That should be the first thing you look at plus its easy to fix if thats the problem. Check the ground wire that bolts down to the thermostat housing first.
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