A bit OT sorry to jack the thread a little bit.... What kind of manifold can be run on a d16 with a tdo5 or t25 to retain the a/c? I know the HF/STD setup cant keep A/c...im trying to keep the a/c and im having a difficult time finding a manifold for the t25.

In any case, I will be running a t25 on my setup in a couple of months. I feel that because my car is my daily driver, and i will prob only go to the track a couple of times this summer, it will be the best. Who could ask for more than quick spool time making decent power, and you can safely run 10psi (on a d) with the proper tuning? Thats almost 200 at the wheels (again-d)...at least for me, thats exactly what im looking for.

Why don't you use the top half of the stock exsaust manifold on the D-series and get a custom plate/flange for the T25? That way you save the A/C and save money on not buying a manifold too. I've got a friend that is running that setup running 10psi on the stock 14B turbo and he's running nice and strong. With forced induction it always comes down to good tunning. So if you do get good tunning than your motor will hold up just fine. Assuming that you don't beat on it at every light and stop sign you see everyday!!!!

I don't understand how he kept the AC, even with the existing manifold. The problem is, the stock manifold (no matter what you do with the adapter plate) positions the turbo in the "center" of the motor, and fairly low as well. Since the turbo is so low, you can't get too creative with the plate or you'll run into oil drainage problems. The AC compatible manifolds I've seen position the turbo fairly high, and to the left (if you're facing the front of the car). Awesome if y'all figured out a way to do it! I just couldn't...

The adapter plate that I make does not allow you to retain AC.

flip the turbo around so the the exsaust comes out on the passenger side and the intake is on the driver side. Make the plate no wider/thicker than 1.5 inches. This way if you have a front mount intercooler the piping will be easier to make. The one down fall is the down pipe has alittle more fabrication because of this. This way A/C is still in tack.

Oh, that's right I forgot about the differences between a 14b and a T25. This may work with a 14b, but not the Mitsu T25 (other t25's may work). The Mitsu T25 has a built in "elbo" on the compressor side. The elbow makes for a nice, smooth design, but it comes out right where the AC compressor is. The shape of the exhaust housing prevents you from turning this turbo 180 degrees because it hits the block, and no amount of grinding will make it work.

right the 14B has an elbow too. but you can remove it and the T25 has it built in. For the 14B you just need to favricate some piping around the A/C. Here's a pic of my setup in a 91 teg(just look at the elbow that could be removed, and i know its getto) In this case i left the elbow in and took out the AC. This is a HKS manifold by the way with a 14B turbo.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redxalien &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i guess the 14b stock wastegate is set at 12 psi . is it possible to lower it to say about 6-8 psi ?! someone told me you can thread the actuator or something . can anyone confirm this for me as i am still wondering about this . thanks .</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dunno, but I had the 14B with stock wastegate and it was 7PSI of boost. The Talon has a Electronic boost control at 12PSI factory

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fsp31 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh, that's right I forgot about the differences between a 14b and a T25. This may work with a 14b, but not the Mitsu T25 (other t25's may work). The Mitsu T25 has a built in "elbo" on the compressor side. The elbow makes for a nice, smooth design, but it comes out right where the AC compressor is. The shape of the exhaust housing prevents you from turning this turbo 180 degrees because it hits the block, and no amount of grinding will make it work.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The mitsu T25 has a removable elbow just like the 14B

your right on the elbow piece for the T25. now that i think about it. I was thinking of my friends car with a T28 Killer turbo upgrade in an 2nd gen eclipse and mistakened it for a T25 still. my bad.

The AWD 1st gen 14B was set at 12psi and the front wheel drive was set at 8psi. Or the otherway around. One was set at 12 and the other set at 8, stock.

&gt;&gt;The mitsu T25 has a removable elbow just like the 14B&lt;&lt;

Maybe there is a removeable 90 degree section downstream somewhere, but the first 90 degree bend is definitely not removeable. That I can guarantee you.

Check out http://store4.yimg.com/I/cheapturbo_1777_1770374 . This is a direct bolt in T28 upgrade for the Eclipse, but the outside of the compressor housing is *identical* to the stock T25. I see it every time I lift the hood...

Edit: Here's another pic off ebay. If that's a t28, then someone is gonna get a hellacious good deal. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...24558 .

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redxalien &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i guess the 14b stock wastegate is set at 12 psi . is it possible to lower it to say about 6-8 psi ?! someone told me you can thread the actuator or something . can anyone confirm this for me as i am still wondering about this . thanks .</TD></TR></TABLE>

The wastegate is set at 7-8 psi. The ECU in the DSM increases the boost. So if you're running the 14b on a stock D16 you should only be getting around 6 - 8psi.

can you take out the stock wastegate on a DSM T25, for an external wastegate?

Would a boost controller hook right up to the stock wastegate on a DSM T25?



Thanks in advance

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YOUR MAMA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can you take out the stock wastegate on a DSM T25, for an external wastegate?

Would a boost controller hook right up to the stock wastegate on a DSM T25?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can remove the actuator, then fit a gasket shaped plate on the exhaust side with the WG port blocked. I wouldn't even bother with the flapper itself. One concern I have about this setup is that the WG opening inside the housing would create a lot of turbulence as boost increases. And, the internal WG isn't bad. I messed with the vacuum source (at the manifold) some to make it more efficient, and even the 2 psi spikes I was getting went away. It's rock steady at about 7.5 psi. The actuator is electronically modulated to 12 psi on stock Talon's/Eclipses.

A boost controller would be inserted into the vacuum line running from the WG actuator to the intake manifold.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cheivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The wastegate is set at 7-8 psi. The ECU in the DSM increases the boost. So if you're running the 14b on a stock D16 you should only be getting around 6 - 8psi.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No it's not. The 14b wastegate is around 9 psi.

Interesting. 9 psi is a bit higher than on the actuator on my T25. I'm not familiar with the 14b, but I figured they would at least share the same actuator...

without a boost controller of any kind on my GSR turbo with a 14B turbo the wastegate lets off pressure at 5psi max with a 1psi boost creep cause of the exsaust.





Modified by MidoriHB at 1:39 PM 6/3/2004