mikeycivic

I currently own a 00 em1 with 65k on the motor. I have basic bolt ons and want to boost. Before I do so what is a good way to make sure its good for the boost? I have all stock internals and will go for 250 - 300 whp for street. Its not a daily driver more like a "its a nice day I'll take it out driver"!!! What do the EXPERIENCED FI USERS SUGGEST? I am farely new to the FI workd and have been doing a LOT of reading and research and I am starting to feel more comfortable with everything.

boostedcivicsir

compression test. if thats ok, leak down. if thats ok, boost away.

mikeycivic

what are numbers I should be looking for ?

HiProfile

Comp numbers w/in ~5% of each other, leakdown should be even & low, single percentage for a healthy motor.

Also check how much oil it burns, if any. Leaky valve seals can lead to detonation issues if you're not careful.

mikeycivic

ha it does burn oil which is what I wa worried about. Its not burn as in smoke out the exhaust burn but if I run it hard it will burn quite a bit between oil changes. I posted on HT about and got all kinds of **** from its completely normal to it shouldnt burn any. I was thinking valve seals as well and I might just change them anyway

pheurton-skeurto

just a reference point...i just bought a 99 Si (COMPLETELY stock). and the b16 in it burns no oil at all. 125000 miles on the clock. i would definately invest in making your engine very healthy before boosting.

mikeycivic

hence the thread

mitsuman

iTrader: (1)

Honestly i think it depends on the motor. I had a b16b civic type-r motor and it burnt absolutely no oil. It was incredible.

Now i have a gsr that burns oil but compression is fine and runs strong. Valve stem seals were replaced last year. Im rebuilding it now, and im changing the seals again to make sure.

Do a compression test, that will ultimately tell you how the motor is feeling. If the compression is low, then put a teaspoon of oil in the low cylinder, if it goes up its ringlands, if it doesnt THEN do a leak down test. No point in doing a leak down test unless your numbers are low. For a b16 i think 195-205 is normal for compression psi. My gsr had 190 across the board if i can remember correctly. Just look for consistancy in all cylinders. Unless they are all at 130, then that, is bad.

mikeycivic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mitsuman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honestly i think it depends on the motor. I had a b16b civic type-r motor and it burnt absolutely no oil. It was incredible.

Now i have a gsr that burns oil but compression is fine and runs strong. Valve stem seals were replaced last year. Im rebuilding it now, and im changing the seals again to make sure.

Do a compression test, that will ultimately tell you how the motor is feeling. If the compression is low, then put a teaspoon of oil in the low cylinder, if it goes up its ringlands, if it doesnt THEN do a leak down test. No point in doing a leak down test unless your numbers are low. For a b16 i think 195-205 is normal for compression psi. My gsr had 190 across the board if i can remember correctly. Just look for consistancy in all cylinders. Unless they are all at 130, then that, is bad. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks mitsuman, did changing the seals help? It burns but I dont see where goes, little bit off black on the bumper right near exhaust but nothing major, I dont see it or smell it anywhere

mitsuman

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikeycivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks mitsuman, did changing the seals help? It burns but I dont see where goes, little bit off black on the bumper right near exhaust but nothing major, I dont see it or smell it anywhere</TD></TR></TABLE>

No problem. Ya my **** would burn so bad when i got on it i can actually see out my rear window a bunch of smoke and would have oil build up all the way up the hatch window. But it pulled hard and had good compression. Even after the seals were replaced. But then again, if the seals are bad usually it has a tendency to smoke in the higher RPM's and mine smoked all the time. Never figured out exactly what it was. But if you burn a little bit of oil, you should be fine. Just do the compression test to see where your at. Local auto parts store usually like 25-30 bux. Good investment.

mikeycivic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mitsuman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No problem. Ya my **** would burn so bad when i got on it i can actually see out my rear window a bunch of smoke and would have oil build up all the way up the hatch window. But it pulled hard and had good compression. Even after the seals were replaced. But then again, if the seals are bad usually it has a tendency to smoke in the higher RPM's and mine smoked all the time. Never figured out exactly what it was. But if you burn a little bit of oil, you should be fine. Just do the compression test to see where your at. Local auto parts store usually like 25-30 bux. Good investment. </TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL my **** dont burn that bad but the amount burned does vary, it was so bad one time that my oil light actually came on and that scared the **** out of me, I recently changed to royal purple 10w30 and check reg and level has been very good. Compression test is #1 on the list

mitsuman

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikeycivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOL my **** dont burn that bad but the amount burned does vary, it was so bad one time that my oil light actually came on and that scared the **** out of me, I recently changed to royal purple 10w30 and check reg and level has been very good. Compression test is #1 on the list </TD></TR></TABLE>

ya just keep an eye on it.

let us know how it goes.