secretcitizen

I figured I would start a thread to give me motivation to get things done to my car.
I have grown to become VERY cheap, and lazy with my build. I won't even buy anything that's $20 without questioning it so much that I won't even go through with it.
SO, hopefully I can get get some motivation from seeing what is NOT done so far and from you guys.


I let the picture do the talking for now and I explain what's left afterwards.


As it sits: Engine bay getting prepped for a white paint job.
Don't mind the fuel tanks





cleaned trans and rear diff



DIY rt4wd short(er) throw shifter. (Thanks to Gizmo for this idea.)



LCA, knuckles, RTA painted gloss black
(cross member sprayed as a durability test piece





Speedfactory style vented VC
My aluminium welding is meh.





Interior repainted black



Golden Eagle sleeved D16z6:
77mm bore
9.5:1 cp pistons
Spec rods (3/8 rod bolts)
Balanced crank
>/= .002" main honda bearings
>/= .0015" rod honda bearings
White gunk is chain lube to prevent rusting.



Endyn port and polish head with supertech valves, springs, etc



Hx35 7blade with 12cm turbine housing




Welded in a plate to separate wastegate "area"






Plans:
Turbo and manifold
I will build my own sidewinder twin scroll manifold so I can retain my AC.
Manifold and turbine housing will be ceramic coated or blanketed to reduce heat/help spool.
If I can get close to using the full potential of the 60lb/min turbo I'll be happy.
(i know this is not TS, but so you get the idea)



AC
My AC lines will be re-routed back behind the motor to avoid the manifold all together. I will utilize the factory lines and re-weld them in areas as needed.


Drivetrain
Stock 88 rt4wd (with hydro slave cylinder mouted to cable arm)
Stock rear diff
(needed) driveshaft. Mine was bent
Spec stage 3+ clutch


The drivetrain should hold up ok. Only concern I have is the 90° gear in the transmission. On a RWD wagon build it was the first part to break.*
If transmission fails I will make a D2B and use a CRV trans with the wagon rear diff. I will use different size tires at that point to offset the difference between wagon and crv front and rear diffs.


The I made a bracket for a master cylinder on the wagon pedals. It is hydro to cable converted to help with reliability with a heavy clutch.
Also, skateboard griptape on the pedals.







Motor, etc
GE intake manifold
y8 fuel rail with 6an fuel lines
ID 1000
Delta 272-2 cam ????
Fuel pump is in-tank walbro 400
Lines are stock with no banjo fittings, converted to 6an.


Cooling and intercooler
Full size radiator
vertical "same side" intercooler


Tuning
Hondata S300


I will let Secret Services in Houston, Tx do the hard part, but I wouldn't mind learning a bit afterwards so I can tweak and tune as needed.
Will run a dual tune, one on 93 and the other on C16.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Thats actually a picture of my manifold being built.

A couple points/recommendations -
-To do tight bends like that means you will have to use thin gauge which means you will need to support the turbo, you may want to consider thicker wall.
-The regular ceramic will burn off the manifold unless you go with the high temp swaintech. It does nothing for spool and little for heat.
-To rework that manifold into a divided manifold means you will need to drastically rework the collector.

secretcitizen

Thanks for the heads up.
I only used it as a visual aid to describe what I meant as a sidewinder. The angle and actual location of the turbo will change as needed to make everything fit. Planed on using 1.25" sch40 mild steel.
Would a turbo blanket and header wrap be a better solution than ceramic?

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

I believe the header wraps and blankets are much more effective at keeping in radiant heat than ceramic. On a long tube manifold like that you get more heat loss from the runners than turbine housing.

secretcitizen

I knew I would be losing heat with the longer runners but I'll see what I can come up with once it's all in place.

secretcitizen

What is used to look like before I made into a project.








Did more putty and shaving in the engine bay.
Will have some after primer, paint and engine mounted.

secretcitizen

A backwards progression update.

I sent the block to the machine shop with a new crank, and girdle. When I bought the block it had an A6 crank, and girdle that was align honed. The previous owner set the clearances on the tight end of spec. When I wanted to open up the clearances I ran out of bearing sizes. Since I would have to send it to the machine shop anyway I just figured I would use a Z6 crank/girdle. Getting the new crank polished, girdle align honed if needed, depending on readings, and a little bit of a bonus.

Readings that were taken:

Rod journal spec 1.7707-17717

Rod journals (after crank polish):
1) 1.7709
2) 1.7707
3) 1.7709
4) 1.7709

Rod bore spec 1.8898-1.8907

Scat Rod bore:
1) 1.8907
2) 1.8905
3) 1.8905
4) 1.8905

With that I can calculate what bearings I will need to get around .0018".
Do you think that these rod clearances are sufficient for a 500-600hp build?

Now the main specs, and readings.

Main journal spec 2.1644-2.1654

Main journal:
1) 2.1646
2) 2.1647
3) 2.1646
4) 2.1646
5) 2.1647

Main housing bore spec 2.3228-2.3237

Main housing bore:
1) 2.3235
2) 2.3241
3) 2.3241
4) 2.3244
5) 2.3237

As you can see the housing bores are out of spec. What that mean is that the bore is too big, and there will hardly be any bearing crush. So as you may have guessed I will need to get an align hone on the girdle.
What that does is take material off the flat surface of the girdle so it makes the bore smaller.
The machinist doesn't have the small enough tool to do the align hone at the time, so I will have to bring it back to him in a few weeks when he buys one.

Now the bonus work!!

I had a grove cut for a copper o-ring.
Here comes >30psi

It is a .040" grove cut down .030" so that there will be .010" of copper to crush for a better seal.





That's it for now I think. I've been out of town for over a month, and I go back after thanksgiving.

Ash J. Williams

how much did that Endyne head cost you, all in all?

dicxonjim

iTrader: (1)

Some serious stuff goin on here ! , nicee
In for more Updates. !!!

My_EFsedan

oh my, subscribed!

secretcitizen

It was around $1600 I believe, I have the invoice in my email somewhere.

Ash J. Williams

Christ almighty. That's much too much.

secretcitizen

lol. Well, I didn't pay $1600, the guy that I bought it from did. Whoever he was he had it sitting around for a long time, since '05 I believe. Since his project never got off the ground he put it up for sale on CL for a steal.

badevo

Sleeper! Very nice. I loved my old hx35.

OdManOut

makes me miss my 87 civic wagon. unfortunately mine wasnt as clean, fuel injected, or 4wd. nice!

secretcitizen

What did you have it on?

They are still nice wagons. I wouldn't mind having one, but then all of my 4th gen civic crap would be useless.

secretcitizen

Sorry to disappoint, but I can not finish this turbo build. I don't have the desire anymore to have a turbo car. I need to just get back to enjoying the car as it is, and back to my desire to ride motocross again.

Motor is for sale if anyone is interested.
FS: Sleeved/ O-ringed D16z6, Endyn head - Houston-Imports.com

My_EFsedan

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blackmugensivic

Lol

Ash J. Williams

that is still a massive amount of money for the head!

secretcitizen

Ash J. Williams

i am not trying to undermine your sale if i had that kind of money laying around, that head would be mine already, just a sticker shock