SWEET THANKS I HAVE 2 LOCAL OREILLYS ONE KEEPS 8 OF THOSE PLUGS IN STOCK SO IM PICKING THOSE UP. HOW MUH GAP SHOULD I RUN JUST THE .035?

 

I'd start around 0.028". your coil is new, so it should be capable of 0.034-0.035, but the plugs will wear and you'll start getting blowout pretty quick as soon as they do start to wear. setting them to 28 will not sacrifice much if any power, and will allow room for as they wear and open up a little

 

thanks for all your guys help so i turned my rail pressure up to 65psi and problem is gone. i guess there wasnt enough fuel getting to the injectors and the wide banddidnt pick it up going lean which is werid it does like being 11.5:1 afr after 12psi

 

thats a bandaid, way too much fuel pressure. bring it back down to 45psi and tune it right

 

i was running 60psi before. im running grams 1000cc injectors according to them 65psi isnt nothing the injector cant handle. 65psi with the 15psi im running is only 80psi under boost.

 

just talked to grams tech they said best fuel spray comes at 105psi for me to take my boost and subtract it from the 105 which is 90psi if i wanted best spray i could get but since im on pump he said that mite make the injectors to big and not want to idle right so my 65psi should be fine but when i go e85 to go up to 80-90psi base pressure

 

Understandable, but despite that information, I'd use lower fuel pressure, keep it easy and go by the tune, to see if bumping it up like that is necessary. I've seen a few grams injectors use perhaps 60-65psi but 90psi + on a B-series shouldn't be happening. That's just unnecessarily high.

 

ya he said thats to get best spray is the psi to run but only if its not going to mess up the idle which on a daily idling at 850-900rpm im sure it would also as he said that if i can us that amount of fuel to do it if i dont need that much no need for it. as i dont need over 1% duty cycle at idle on my set up so if i turned my fuel psi to 90 ovously i would never beable to turn the pluse down far enough to get good idle so its staying at 65 as it is now.

 

so been over looking my data logs and my timing is lower the set timing in vacuum by a degree but higher by 3 degrees then the set timing when in boost what would be causing this? tryed moving the dizzy nothing

 

air and coolant temperature compensations will always be altering your timing

 

But you need your physical BASE timing at the distributor to remain at 16 degrees. You start messing with that, the rest of the tune is off.

 

ya taking off my light weight pulley and putting my itr single on and check the timing. problem was fuel pump not keeping fuel at the injectors and losing pressure car runs great hitting boost cut again "15.2psi" im changing the waste gate feed tube tomarrow if its not pouring rain here to bad. trying to get it to where it sty at waste gate pressure and stop over boosting so i can use my ebc and have boost come in harder right now as is with waste gate opening at 8psi and the turbo over running it and making 15 im seeing full boost at 4600rpm but i figure ill see it a bit sooner and boost will come in hard once i can keep the waste gate closed til 14psi and have it open to hold 15psi as its my max pressure on my 2 bar and im 91 so notwanting to go past 15 anyways

 

I kinda didn't catch that.. I'll wait for 964kb20 to edit and retype that again, so we can see where he's going. too many topic changes in that paragraph. I'm at a loss for now.

 

lol, I think I can translate...

he cant check timing properly with the lightweight crank pulley, so he's putting a stock one back on that has the correct timing marks so he can check base timing properly.

fuel pump issue, is resolved now

self explanatory

I edited for spelling and grammar, easier to understand now

and yes, GOOD! Fix that wastegate tube ASAP!

 

sorry for that. thnaks for fixing that. i tried to reply off my small cell phone lol. here is some pics. fixed the manifold today have not tested the car yet as its pouring rain like buckets at a time lol enjoy.



now a full 1.5" tube

 

 

so i know its hard to give a ansewer but how much cylinder pressure would you guys think i could run on cali. 91 oct? engine is 9.6:1 static? right now i have my timing stepped .25 degrees til 3psi, .50 til 7.4, .75 til 11.6, 1 til max boost 14.9 max timing is 10 degrees plugs are as you guys said brk 7

 

well it stopped raining after i posted last and i went out at 9pm as its kinda windy so the roads where pretty dry holding 10psi in 1-2nd and 12.8 in 3rd-4th. im assuming my over boost problem is most the way fixed. i still have to bench test the gate. so thanks for everyones input. this thing moves like nothing ive ever been in and ive been in a few 500awhp evo 8-9s. so will be trying out the ebc late tomarrow after i put the new wheel bearing in and longer wheel studs in and catch can when it comes in and repalce dizzy seal as its leaking oil out the dizzy area. when i bought this ebc it didnt come with a diagram of how it was to be hooked up. so i looked online and everying i found for extrenal gates is port 1 gets boost source and then t's over to bottom port of the gate. port2 goes to the top of the gate. port 3 vents? sound about right ?

 

Not having paper instructions in an effort to save costs and trees is more and more common with the IOT of things.

Just post the link of the image diagram you found to best validate what you believe is the correct hook up. Then post a photo of your engine bay to help visualize what you think is correct.

 

this is how i was going to hook it up. will post pics of my ebc silinoid later wen i take it off.

 

That's fine, but you may want to take the line that goes to the compressor cover and put that via the intake manifold.

 

will this not work ?<br/>

 

whats the different effect that will have?

 

A more stable vacuum point.. Lessens chance of creep or unstable boost reference

 

k thanks for the info. taking the car to the strip tonight at 6 to get some passes on the gate