oh and the gm map sensor is using its own vacuum port off the intake i have a prototype performer x intake manifold which has alot of ports for vacuum nipples to be put in.

 

this is when i was mocking things up<br/>

 

as you can see there alot of ports i can use this it where i ran the gm map sensor too.

 

 

can you upload a copy of your current map? I'll compare your settings to mine

 

what settings do you want to see a layout on? i read a bunch last night some guys said to use the gm test for the knock off 3 bar i have but i tryed that and i idle according to the data log in 7" of vacuum which i know is wrong.

 

so i just retryed using the gm 2 bar map i made unpluged the honda factory map plugged in my gm 2bar and just had to add some fuel for idle and in the boost area. idk what it was about last night and the night before but she runs good now and much smother then the factory honda map sensor.

 

im not all that familiar with the gm 2 bar, I have a gm 3 bar map sensor on mine, but the factory Honda map sensor wasn't designed to see boost. when it sees positive pressure it cuts fuel and spark if im not mistaken because it sees it as a problem.

 

Ugh. This thread. The OEM Honda map sensor is fine for use up to 11.2psi given that the ECU is calibrated for the fuel/ignition changes. It was only a "problem" back in the day when no good engine management options were available and trickery was involved that fooled the stock ECU which required bypassing the MAP sensor.


OP, you need to calibrate your tune correctly for the map sensor you're using. If done correctly with the right values, retuning should not be required if the car was tuned right in the first place. Driving without it being calibrated is a dumb thing that dumb people do. Don't be dumb.

 

it was tunned right only problem was the amount of boost i had to run do to the waste gate feed tube being to small and the factory map sensor not able to read that much boost so i got a gm 2 bar which wasnt working right to start with but now ive seemed to work out the bugs. will be cuting the feed tube off later next week and boost shoud drop down to where it should be so i can stat using my boost controller and get the ramp rate and everything set and take it to the track next weekend to get some times.

 

so mite be a random question so now that i can not boost cut at 12.9psi that im running the gm 2bar i still get some breaking up not when at 10psi though havent held it at 11 to see if im getting it there. afrs are 12.5 til 9psi then drop to 12.2-12.0 .75 degrees pulled per pound of boost so 14.5 degrees at 14.9psi on the map. i was think maybe spark blow out ? but i have ngk6 nickels gaped to .030

 

You're running too hot a plug.

You're running a 2Bar sensor on management calibrated to run 3bar.

here's how "BAR" map sensors work.

1Bar= 14.7psi (atmosphere)

for every 2, 3, or 4 bar sensor you use, one BAR is used as a control calibration for vacuum (aka. no positive boost pressure)

So, for a 2 bar to work = 14.7psi (for vacuum) + 14.7psi for positive pressure = 2BAR.

So, you can only go to 14.7psi with a 2BAR map sensor anyway. But the voltage signal is different and must be calibrated to be seen. I know in Hondata they have selection menus to choose, so that ignition and fuel maps can work. But you can't just "switch out" because it throws the whole tune off. Since an entire "BAR" is missing, when actual boost pressure is about 8psi from a boost reference source (like intake manifold) the computer may read as though its 18psi and throw everything off.

That reminds me of another "bright" guy that had an NA car, in which he was told using a Hondata 4BAR sensor would "clean thing up" on his car by just popping it on the TB and replace the OEM... Yeah... he was wrong.

Get another 3 bar on there and fix your other issues with your sparkplugs. That's probably why you're going through so many problems.

 

no no no no i have the stock honda map sensor i have a gm 2 bar and i have a no name 3 bar honda style map sensor.

 

i am using the gm 2 BAR NOW after relaxing and coming back to it i just made a new map pluged in my fuel numbers from the stock map sensor map and drove around and readjusted/. how much colder of a plug should i go then the 'stock" gsr/b16/type r plug im running right now

 

I would run 7s for plugs

 

do you happen to have a full part number for them? im a 9.8;1 b20 with my cp pistons i dont have my 404s in right now but i know when there in my compression drops alot like .9;1 so would i still want to run 7s with them or step back up to 6's? im on cali 91 btw

 

i can get 7s and 8s all day from oreillys so which would you guys say? also what gap to run ? im on a stock distribuator with a new coil. for 14psi from my 61mmm garrett on 91 ? heads ported polished cp -11cc pistons arp stock rods arp head studs golden eagle block gaurd performer x intake and 68mm tb grams 1000cc injectors aem e85 320 pump aem fuel rail aem fpr. aem wide band big tube ram horn 3" DP TO 2.5 " Eexhaust threadstone tr10c intercooler 666hp rated have crowler 404 cams but not installed.

 

I run BKR7E-11 gapped at .030

 

whats the difference between those and (Part # R5671A-7)

 

so i was reading that hooking to boost controller up will keep boost more stable psi wise true or not true ?

 

I run BKR7E gapped at 0.028"

True, but its really only true if you're using it to raise the boost at least 20% above the base pressure (the actual boost it runs without a boost controller)

 

OK THANKS. WHATS THE DIFFERENCE IN THE PLUGS ONE I READ IS RESISTOR STYLE AND THE OTHER DOESNT SAY WHY WOULD YOU WANT ONE OVER THE OTHER?

 

The Part # R5671A-7 are non resistor which you don't want..

 

OH OK ILL TRY TO GET THEM

 

just a heads up, bkr7e-11 is different from bkr7e. the bkr7e-11 comes pre-gapped to around 0.045" and the ground strap is about level, and the bkr7e comes pre-gapped to roughly 0.035" and the ground strap is about level. meaning when you close the gap down, the ground strap will be at an angle, and the angle will be steeper with the bkr7e-11's, which is why I just get the bkr7e's, so when I gap them down the ground strap isnt at a crazy angle.