Bonzai1994

Hey, im trying to sell my 98 gsr but befor I sell it I wanted to replace the turbo (that was leaking oil between the turbin and the CRHA and it was putting oil into my intake.) I bought a turbo off ebay that said it only had 5000 miles on it. Put it on and it was leaking from the same spot, My oil lines are the right size and I even drained a quart of oil to get the level below the return in the oil pan. It sill leaks. There is no oil leaking out of the compressor side. and it drips between the CRHA and turbin @ about 1 drop a min. Do you think I got a bum turbo, or do I need to take it off again and rebuild it? Thanks

bubs

Do you have a catchcan or anything that would restrict your motor from venting off crankcase gases from the breather holes on the valve cover? If there's too much pressure in the crankcase, it will keep the oil from draining out of the turbo and leak in the area you mentioned.

Bonzai1994

I dont have a catch can, but the port on the valve cover is conected to the pipe between the compressor and the air filter, I put my finger over the port and feel a vacume inside the crank case.

splitime

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bonzai1994 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont have a catch can, but the port on the valve cover is conected to the pipe between the compressor and the air filter, I put my finger over the port and feel a vacume inside the crank case.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The line from the valvecover isn't your PCV system (Positive crankcase ventilation). The little black box under your intake manifold, and the pcv valve on the intake manifold and the line running to the IM is your PCV system. Sounds like your system closes under boost and probably backed up the oil drain system... and fugged the seals in the turbo.

My beater runs from the pcv valve to a mountain dew can (free/easy ). It isn't creating a vacuum, but it at least allows pressure to vent. Ideally i'd run a catch can with a line from can to either exhaust with a slashcut for vacuum, or to the spot you have your Valve cover line going to create vacuum also. This way it vents the crankcase.

bubs

Try this to see if the problem goes away: Disconnect all of your lines running from the valve cover and leave them completely open (remove the PCV valve too!). It will smell bad with the engine fumes, but it will tell you if the problem is related to your PCV setup - I'd almost guarantee it is.

Bonzai1994

I know it is not the pcv system, I havent driven the car sence I swaped the turbo. It leaks at idle and when I run the engine at a higher rpm. I disconected the pipe to the compressor side to see if oil was comeing out from compressor but there wasent. Do you guys think that the seal to the turbin side is leaking or could it be something else

spoon95eg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by splitime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The line from the valvecover isn't your PCV system (Positive crankcase ventilation). The little black box under your intake manifold, and the pcv valve on the intake manifold and the line running to the IM is your PCV system. Sounds like your system closes under boost and probably backed up the oil drain system... and fugged the seals in the turbo.

<U>My beater runs from the pcv valve to a mountain dew can (free/easy ). It isn't creating a vacuum, but it at least allows pressure to vent. Ideally i'd run a catch can with a line from can to either exhaust with a slashcut for vacuum, or to the spot you have your Valve cover line going to create vacuum also. This way it vents the crankcase.</TD></TR></TABLE></U>


not trying to steal ur thread but i wanna know how to create a catch can cuz that my problem toolmk splittime ur the man here

TypeSLO

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bonzai1994 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know it is not the pcv system, I havent driven the car sence I swaped the turbo. It leaks at idle and when I run the engine at a higher rpm. I disconected the pipe to the compressor side to see if oil was comeing out from compressor but there wasent. Do you guys think that the seal to the turbin side is leaking or could it be something else</TD></TR></TABLE>

it's really easy but the greddy catch can just looks better.
can ues any container which you hook up two connections to. one from pcv to the can and one from can to a source of vaccuum. you can use your vent off the valve cover. just make sure that it's a properly circulated system. positive pressure in one end and negative pressure in the other. get it?

Bonzai1994

what would cause the turbine side to leak and not the compressor side

bubs

Before you say your pcv setup is fine again, at least try what I said to do in the post above. I'm telling you something I learned from experience. I had the SAME problem and had the SAME setup you did with the line going from the breather hole to the intake tube between the compressor and air filter.

I thought it was a foolproof setup because I could feel a vacuum, but it's not enough. I had a turbo rebuilt because of this and it did the same thing when I got it back - leaking between the turbine housing and the chra. After I took off the lines for my breather valves and left them open, no more leaks.

At least give it a try, it will take 15 seconds to pull the pcv valve and any other breather ports (do b18's have a second breather line like an h22?). If I'm wrong, at least you didn't spend a lot of time on it

On another note, have you ever checked your compression? If you're compression is low, it could cause excessive blow-by and pressurize your crankcase to keep the oil from draining down from the turbo.

Also, what does your return line look like? Is it running straight down with no kinks? What size line is it?

Bonzai1994

last night I took the pcv valve out and disconected the valve cove line. The leak was still there. My return line is 3/4" (that is what size the nipples on the oil pan and the turbo is) the hose is about a foot long and I made shure it dosent have any upwards angles on it. I orderd a rebuild kt off ebay. When I move the wheel it has (im guessing) about 1/32" movement. that is with oil in it. i dont know if that is too much. Ill probily take the turbo out tonight (pain in the *** when you still have a/c) Oh and I did a compression check befor i put the turbo on, I dont remeber the numbers from it but they where all with in 8 psi. I never drive the car hard, all I do is take it to and from work. Im just trying to sell her with out fu&lt;king somebody with a bum turbo.

bubs

Hopefully your rebuild kit will take care of the problem then. Good luck

91civicDXdude

i had that problem with my oil return line was kinked

splitime

Where on the oilpan is your drain line coming into?

Bonzai1994

The return line is not kinked, and it is a morisso oil pan with the drain builted in, When i rebuild the turbo what tolerances should I look for and what are the specs.

Bonzai1994

I just got done takeing the turbo apart. it looked like I did get a bum turbo from ebay. there what looks like alot of old burnt oil and chunky stuff between the CHRA and the cup looking thing that goes between the CRHA and the turbin. But every thing else looks good. Put the brake cleaner and schotch bright to it and it looks nice and clean, i would put a picture on here but I dont know how. Now just need to wait for the rebuild kit to get here. Thanks for your help

Bonzai1994

When rebuilding a turbo, I have herd that there is a certint position that the turbin compresion seal ring has to face. Is this true or dose it not matter?

twisted civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bonzai1994 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My oil lines are the right size and I even drained a quart of oil to get the level below the return in the oil pan.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think this is the big problem, the return should NOT be below the oil level in the pan.

coneheadsracing

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by twisted civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think this is the big problem, the return should NOT be below the oil level in the pan.</TD></TR></TABLE>

it shouldn't matter. I though that could have been my issue. I hooked up some clear tubing, and as soon as i started the car, it was not an issue anymore. Mine was too big of an oil feed line, but i had oil in the exhuast not the intake. My canton racing pan is the same way, and i have no issues.

ek_chris

ive seen problems with this, under braking the sump blocks the oil from the turbo to enter.. and creates smoke. Maybe your a special case. but with others its a problem

coneheadsracing

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek_chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive seen problems with this, under braking the sump blocks the oil from the turbo to enter.. and creates smoke. Maybe your a special case. but with others its a problem</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think i have experienced that as of yet, but it makes sense what you are saying.... i'll watch out for that over this summer. Good point