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Check if ur spark plugs are wet. May just be getting way too much fuel. In which case, yeah do not continue trying without pulling some fuel from the tune first. Like 10-20%. Or at least reduce the post start compensation.
I know what it is. Super silly as always too. I've had issues with my map sensor before and it acted exactly like this. During the rebuild I switched to a 4 bar Hondata MAP sensor, but never made that adjustment to the settings in my tune. So it thinks I'm running the stock MAP sensor still. I'm having an issue figuring out how to download my previous tune and adjust it though. I can't get my old tune to download though. I know how to do this.. but when I hit "download" nothing is happening and I don't have a saved file of my tune on my computer. I guess either way I know the issue and I'll communicate it to the tuner.
Last edited by 9TechNine9; 05-08-2018 at 10:01 PM.
Yesterday, I got up at the hairy butt crack of dawn to rent a U-Haul trailer and get the Integra to an alignment appointment and the tune. The U-Haul trailer seemed super sketchy in the beginning, mostly because I was towing in town (lots of bumps, potholes and cracks in the road in MN). Driving on the highway was actually the smoothest part. My step father was kind enough to let me use his truck last minute to make the trips. I got to the alignment shop and basically was told to kick rocks. His reasoning was because the car wasn't running so he couldn't test the alignment. I get it.. but I made this appointment 2 weeks ago and let him know all of this info at that time. Unsure if this would cause an issue, I towed the car to DB Performance not knowing how out of whack the alignment was.
Issues
The tune (and Shane) exceeded my expectations yet again! It took them about an hour or more to get the tank drained, filled with e85 and engine fired up with a base tune. During the actual tune the only issue I had was blowing off charge pipes (it happened like 3 times). I guess when I replaced the couplings I didn't tighten down the T-bolt clamps very much. Other than that, very minor boost creep. Shane thinks its due to my 4 port hondata boost controller, which he found is pretty sensitive. He said that 2% duty cycle = 1 psi when usually its 5%. Another issue I've found is my exhaust hangs extremely low in the middle of the car now, like ~1.5 inches off the ground.. maybe. I scraped in my driveway.. And for that reason I don't think it's quite drive-able yet. I think I can fix this by cutting out this nasty little angle it has.. It could possible affect the angles of the exhaust though. Also, my dumppipe heat wrapping came off..
Results
376hp 253tq @ 16psi. 96% injector duty cycle but he was tuning rich, because I don't have an ethanol content sensor (said this was plug and play). Absolutely zero knock (last tune this was my limiting factor on pump gas). ECT's were ~190* , it was about a 60-70* day though. Limiting factors were stock fuel pump wiring and intercooler.
Thats kool mane. Seems like alot people are getting tuned and setup good this year already.
i love how people hate 4port solenoids lol. It literally took me all last summer, but i got finally got it dialed in between 2-4psi depending on temperature. So what are we missing out on using 3ports. From what i read, 4ports responsd faster.
Thanks guys! I haven't even had the chance to drive it yet, the butt dyno is the most important part! The exhaust hanging so low really bothers me.. I'm wondering if I can cheat and just cut the hangers off and mount them in a lower position to raise the exhaust or if I have to pull the exhaust off and chop/weld a new straight piece in. I need to figure this out before I commit to buying the tickets for my first track event coming up next month.
Originally Posted by 2x0
Can’t wait to get my appointment with DB now.
While I was there I overheard them taking calls for appointments. They are already booked out until July, just so you are aware.
i love how people hate 4port solenoids lol. It literally took me all last summer, but i got finally got it dialed in between 2-4psi depending on temperature. So what are we missing out on using 3ports. From what i read, 4ports responsd faster.
I can't recall exactly what he said about my 4 port but he said that 4 ports are more sensitive and harder to dial in the boost. Apparently 3 ports are no bs for tuning.
Thanks for the heads up! I might call today then. One question, what led you to choose DB? Was it more location or expertise?
Where I am at, Full Blown is only an hour from me, where as DB is two hours. Just wondering if it’s worth the long drive.
For the exhaust, just move the hangers to get it up higher. Or raise the car some until you can fix it so it is driveable?
Make the extra trip to DB, I did. I've dealt with a few tuners here and most seem to be unorganized/ don't communicate - FullBlown being one of them. There's a reason DB is so busy
Finding good/reputable import tuners is getting harder every year.
I didn't know Full Blown offered dyno tuning (assuming this is the same Full Blown that makes turbo components and other performance parts)
Yep, they are based out of Eagan, MN and specialize mostly in Scion FRS/Subaru BRZ stuff. But they’ll tune anything afaik. It’s where the previous owner of my CRX got it tuned, but I’ve spoken with them a couple times and wasn’t too impressed.
Yep, they are based out of Eagan, MN and specialize mostly in Scion FRS/Subaru BRZ stuff. But they’ll tune anything afaik. It’s where the previous owner of my CRX got it tuned, but I’ve spoken with them a couple times and wasn’t too impressed.
In my experience, going with your gut instinct in these instances is always best. I tell people if they get a bad vibe from a shop, just avoid it. It almost always ends poorly if it doesn't feel right from the beginning.
I'm planning on making use of Boost Logic here in Austin at some point, curious to see how they do with a Honda engine. The guy I most recently spoke to had a fair bit of knowledge on the B/K engines and seemed pretty confident in the build I was describing.
Tuning is one thing I still haven't done on a vehicle by myself. I'd want to practice on a beater before ever tuning a serious project.
Make the extra trip to DB, I did. I've dealt with a few tuners here and most seem to be unorganized/ don't communicate - FullBlown being one of them. There's a reason DB is so busy
I was just looking over DB's dyno checklist. How strict would you say they are, do they go over the car with a fine-toothed comb looking for any issues?
The one area I think I need to work on still is wiring. I have quite a few butt connectors I need to get rid of yet, and wires in the engine bay that aren't protected well. Would hope I not drive two hours up there and get turned away for some of these minor things, especially with a non-refundable deposit.
The car is driveable now, I just have to find time to drive it. I cut the hangers off the exhaust, raised the exhaust with a jack and welded the hangers back on. It probably sits another inch higher just from that. I also ended up raising the car because the height I had it set at just wasn't realistic for street conditions here. It's probably ~1-1.5" drop from stock now.
Originally Posted by 2x0
I was just looking over DB's dyno checklist. How strict would you say they are, do they go over the car with a fine-toothed comb looking for any issues?
The one area I think I need to work on still is wiring. I have quite a few butt connectors I need to get rid of yet, and wires in the engine bay that aren't protected well. Would hope I not drive two hours up there and get turned away for some of these minor things, especially with a non-refundable deposit.
Ultimately it's your responsibility to have the car prepped. They basically set your timing and put a bunch of sensors on the car and get straight to business. There's not really any inspection (although they will ask you what parts you have, how its set up, what your goals are) that it goes through because its expected that you have gone over everything already and it's ready to go ***** to the wall. Any issues you have on the dyno will cost you time (and that means $$$). For example, my couplers kept blowing off when we started doing full pulls because I didn't tighten them enough. I probably wasted a good hour on the dyno because I would blow one off (wasting a pull), then have to tighten it down. I repeated that like 3 times until I was like **** it I'm tightening everything down like a mad man.
I also found DB to be the most lax on the type of thing you mentioned. If there's a small oil leak they might still tune it depending on how bad, but its really not advised and the car is only going to do as good as you have prepared it to do. I found other shops trying to turn me away or ignoring me the last time I got it tuned because of silly little issues like that, but deep down I thought they were just doing that because they were too busy - and they can do that.. DB is organized and doesn't play games. Just schedule the tune there, you have testimony from me and others here, going with Full Blown just because it's an hour closer is a gamble and that's up to you if you want to risk it. Moral of the story - just fix every damn thing you can yourself before you get there so there's no issues.
Thanks for the rundown on DB. I definitely plan to go there, just wondering how far I needed to go with “cleaning stuff up” first. I already drive the car frequently and do WOT pulls, so I’m not worried about anything actually going wrong. Just technicalities at this point. And I think I’m going to get boost control components and a 3 port solenoid before I go in for the tune
Bad *** build dude! Have you thought of running wider tires (obviously on diff wheels) for better traction and handling?
Thanks! Like I said though the videos really don't do it justice. I'd like to try to mess with BBG first to see if that will help with the traction. Last night while I was doing some small pulls I blew the **** off of 3rd, so I'm thinking another set of larger wheels and tires in the future are inevitable. Probably 15x8 w/ 235's is what I'm thinking. I really love my current wheel/tire combo, but I'm not sure if it's going to completely cut it. I was going for the sleeper/OEM look but I think I might've passed that stage at this point.
Something I forgot to previously mention about the car - When I got the car home from the tune I was getting a flashing oil light. Checked the oil and it was low. The oil drain was a touch loose and had been dripping. Tightened that and topped off the oil - light was still flashing. Decided "wth why not reset the ecu and see if that works, while I look into this". I did some digging and found that the flashing oil light means one of 2 things - bad oil pump or bad oil sending unit. Found my oil sending unit, seems like the connector worked its way loose. Spent 30 mins looking for the connector in the bay, only to come up with nothing. I did some searching and found out that it is a yellow/red wire that goes to oil sending unit. I found my yellow/red wire and there was no connector on the end of it (I remember seeing this wire in the bay and deciding not to cut it out because it had to go to something). I finished resetting the ecu and gave it one last lucky go. No flashing oil light this time. I'm confused as hell at this point because there is nothing going to that oil sending unit!
Had a chance to drive the car around to work out the kinks. I did a 2nd and 3rd full pull and ran into issues. Fan stopped working, CEL was now on and I was getting a weird noise from the motor. I made a mistake by mounting the fan relay too low in the bay and the wires caught in the axle boot causing them to rip out of the relay and through my firewall (subsequently out of the dash). I was able to save the axle boot, the fan relay on the other hand is giving me troubles. The fan positive wire that was ripped out had a spade terminal connector on the end of it, so it was ripped out of where it was connected and leaving me to wonder where it came from. I ripped out the whole dash looking for where it connected only to come up with nothing. From looking at the spade connector it looked like the right size to "plug into" a space on the fuse panel beneath the dash. Now, I know that fan positive wires can be run off of basically any ignition powered wire, but now I'm left wondering which fuse space I should try to plug it into. It was obviously not run in conjunction with a fuse, so I'm thinking it was just ran to a "spare fuse" spot. I hope this all makes sense, I'll get pictures of what I'm talking about later. Is all of this a plausible theory?
The past week I've been slowly pushing the limits of the car, breaking something, fixing it and repeating - that's the name of the game right? At this point, I think it's race ready besides the brakes which I'll be doing tonight. I went with Hawk HP+ pads and Red Line 600 synthetic brake fluid. I'm glad I was already planning on running the higher performance brake components because I can tell my brakes do not like the extra power I'm making now. I was getting a loose pedal feeling after working them pretty hard on a 90* day. I'm still having an issue with the coupling sometimes blowing off of the throttle body, I think mostly because of the angle that it connects at which undoubtedly disturbs flow. Hoping to either get a better clamp or longer coupler (to help the angle) to alleviate this issue. My first event is this weekend, I'm hoping to get much better footage than last time if I can convince my friend to bring his GoPro.
Needing a Snell 2010 approved helmet for the event this weekend, I got a craigslist gem for $80. It's an HJC FG-17. The reviews on it were great - comparing it to $600 helmets and the price was even better. Anyways, fitment and field of view seem on point.
While pulling the dash to monkey with the fan wiring I realized I had a bunch of documents in the glove box that I had never gone through, which included previous dyno's @ DB performance AND the purchase of my B18C longblock. SCORE!! By looking through the dyno sheets I can tell that he was using my previous SC50. The 260hp is @ 9psi and the 223hp is @ 5psi. By finding all these documents I was able to connect a lot of dots about the cars history.
I pulled these lower engine to tranny mounts out of the car because they were just slightly hitting the exhaust. Does everybody else run these or not? I'm sure they help with any load on the bolts between the engine and tranny, but I should be ok not running these right?
Looks like you’re making good progress slowly pushing the car, breaking, fixing, repeating. Yup, been in that world for the past year or so. Glad it seems to be getting more solid though!
Is that the front lower mount? I used to have one but I removed it, and it didn’t seem to make any difference. I think most people run with only 3 mounts, especially if you have aftermarket poly ones.
05-08-2018, 05:26 PM
Re: STC Hunter B18C Stock Block DC2 Street/Track Build
By looking through the dyno sheets I can tell that he was using my previous SC50. The 260hp is @ 9psi and the 223hp is @ 5psi. By finding all these documents I was able to connect a lot of dots about the cars history.
