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Today I got the radiator fan mounted up. It sits pretty nicely. However my lower rad hose will be touching my intercooler piping..
I picked up the parts from my buddy. The dumppipe came out ugly a f. I was laughing at it when he brought out the parts from his garage. There was spatter, crooked beads and cut marks/grinds all over the place It was $180 to get the whole set cerakoted. I felt like I got a great deal. High quality job/materials and turnaround was fast. The manifold was tricky to wrap because it was just so darn small. There are a few spots where I had to completely overlap to get to areas that hadn't been covered yet. I couldn't get a few very small spots covered. I need to order longer locking ties to complete the downpipe, it's just being held with zip ties for the moment. I went with a thicker heat wrap overlap on the downpipe, about 1/2"+, because of how close it sits to the radiator and some of my lines.
I'd like to run that vacuum line from my boost control solenoid to a splitter on the back of my IM where the blow off valves vacuum line runs to. Is this going to cause any issues at all?
I ended up just running a T splitter like described above. The end with the 2" nub on it is connected to the back of the IM.
My next project is to get my fan relay wired up. I'm just having confusion on where this grey wire goes.. the manual says thermo switch (sending unit) but I have had no luck in finding or figuring out what the hell that is. It's driving me nuts. Here's my best idea on where to run this wire... (blue ring terminal on top of thermostat housing, where it looks there is wires grounded)
The radiator thermo switch is the connector right below your blue ring terminal in the pic above. I just used the factory fan wiring to trigger my radiator fan relay.
Here is a pic of my radiator fan relay. I cut the connector off the factory fan wiring and soldered on connectors to connect and trigger the relay witch has power straight from the battery with 10 gauge wire. Then the negative side of the fan is grounded in the same spot as my battery. If your factory wiring worked fine before you shouldn’t have to mess with the thermo switch wiring at all.
Here is a pic of my radiator fan relay. I cut the connector off the factory fan wiring and soldered on connectors to connect and trigger the relay witch has power straight from the battery with 10 gauge wire. Then the negative side of the fan is grounded in the same spot as my battery. If your factory wiring worked fine before you shouldn’t have to mess with the thermo switch wiring at all.
You're the man thank you! So you are only running 3 wires to the relay (battery positive, fan positive, ground)? The previous owner ran wires to the fan 1. ran to a switch in the cabin that was grounded and 2. somewhere under the dash (I'll have to check where that runs). I'm pretty sure that he ran it like this (toggled on 24/7) to compensate for the 2 ebay slim fans. I'm going to just use these wires interchangeably with the factory wires since they worked before.
You're the man thank you! So you are only running 3 wires to the relay (battery positive, fan positive, ground)? The previous owner ran wires to the fan 1. ran to a switch in the cabin that was grounded and 2. somewhere under the dash (I'll have to check where that runs). I'm pretty sure that he ran it like this (toggled on 24/7) to compensate for the 2 ebay slim fans. I'm going to just use these wires interchangeably with the factory wires since they worked before.
Yes my relay has the factory positive & negative, then power in straight from the battery, and power out the other side of the relay to the fan. Then the fan is grounded in the same place as my battery. Pretty simple really once you wrap your mind around it. Build is looking good dude. Keep up the good work.
Yes my relay has the factory positive & negative, then power in straight from the battery, and power out the other side of the relay to the fan. Then the fan is grounded in the same place as my battery. Pretty simple really once you wrap your mind around it. Build is looking good dude. Keep up the good work.
This is how I did it as well. Although I grounded to chassis near the fan instead.
Yes my relay has the factory positive & negative, then power in straight from the battery, and power out the other side of the relay to the fan. Then the fan is grounded in the same place as my battery. Pretty simple really once you wrap your mind around it. Build is looking good dude. Keep up the good work.
It took me forever to wrap my head around it, but I figured out the relay. Thanks again for that info. Here is how I wired it.
I mounted the relay on the frame rail between the battery and the trans. Seemed like a tucked away, central location. Here are the wires that the previous owner ran up to the fan. They have bugged me since the day I bought the car, just makes it look like a hack-job. He also ran these wires through the firewall with no protection on the wires or the sheet metal hole they came through. I took the liberty to fix that as well.
All of my water and oil lines are mounted up and ready to go.
I also got a couple of shots of the brake pressure adjuster (I think?) while I was back there. Not really sure what this does.
A couple remarks on the build so far - overflow tank sits in a really weird spot, but actually doesn't hit the hood at all. I'll probably end up ordering a slimmer one in the future.
I think I'm going to run a cold charge pipe through the high beam on the drivers side (basically just cut the lens out and remove the projector). I can't run my filter underneath the frame rail because I still have my washer fluid reservoir there and I'd like to not just run it straight down under my power steering (in case of leaks). I'm thinking my best option is to run the filter on top of the frame rail with a cold charge pipe, or I could make a 180* off the turbo and run it between the turbo and front frame rail.
So I'm almost finished. I received the last of the parts in the mail today. Tune is in 1 week. Should I fire it up to burp the coolant, check for leaks, etc? I have my old tune on there, so I think as long as I keep an eye on the afr I should be okay to do that minor stuff quickly to prepare it as much as possible for the tune.
Looking good man! It's almost there! Definitely start it up, check for leaks and make sure everything functions properly. I'd even say drive it around a bit, get it fully warmed up etc. just stay out of boost. Find as many problems as you can now rather than on the dyno.
I also had a bunch of unsecured wiring the previous owner had run thru the firewall, unprotected, strewn across the engine bay. It's awful! Still working on cleaning things up. I mounted my fan relay inside the car near the ecu, since I am using pin A12 to control it. Was an attempt at keeping the engine bay clean, though I'm not sure it was the best choice.
Looking good man! It's almost there! Definitely start it up, check for leaks and make sure everything functions properly. I'd even say drive it around a bit, get it fully warmed up etc. just stay out of boost. Find as many problems as you can now rather than on the dyno.
I also had a bunch of unsecured wiring the previous owner had run thru the firewall, unprotected, strewn across the engine bay. It's awful! Still working on cleaning things up. I mounted my fan relay inside the car near the ecu, since I am using pin A12 to control it. Was an attempt at keeping the engine bay clean, though I'm not sure it was the best choice.
Awesome I'll give it a startup and run through before dyno day. I was originally going to mount it under the dash but saw that boosted94gsr mounted his on the frame rail so I did the same. It's pretty concealed you would never know its there.
I made the perfect elbow bend for my intake by making a pie cut out of a 90* silicon coupler, then pie cutting the old plastic intake arm.
Next was to cut out part of my headlight to make room for the filter. I marked it with sharpie then went to town chopping a large chunk out of it. I ended up cutting out one of the mounts for the low beam, which I was keeping. In attempt to keep it from bouncing around while driving I makeshifted a mount by drilling a hole, putting a nut in between the housing and lens mounting plate to act as a stabilizer/spacer and putting a screw through it. Rock solid again. I cut off the lens cover but I saved the portion of plastic lens so I can make a cover for the cold charge pipe just in case it rains (plan to never drive in wet conditions, but better to be prepared).
Fitment is great. Looks sweet I guess. +10 ricer points. Kinda takes away from my sleeper, clean OEM looks but w.e. I figured it would help with under hood temps and especially IAT when I'm tracking it. I crushed the filter a bit when making the intake pipe. Didn't realize how fragile it was. Rookie mistake. Live and learn though right?
Thanks guys! I'm super excited to get it up and running! I've had the car for about 3 years and have probably only put on 1000 miles. However, my girlfriend and I are adopting a dog today so the dc2 will be taking the back seat until the tune. I'll be sure to get a startup video and maybe a vlog update once things are sorted out.
Originally Posted by TheShodan
Very good, sir, however I recommend a k&n "baggy" to cover that filter from moisture & cage corrosion. (It's technically called a wrap).
Good idea, I'll be sure to add that to my list. When you say cage corrosion are you talking about the metal filter screen that holds the cotton? I also oiled the filter with K&N filter oil. Thinking it might be a good idea to do a 2nd round of that before I get the car moving.
Originally Posted by 2x0
Just noticed you have all your hot pipes wrapped nicely, but why no turbo blankie?
I already had the turbine ceramic coated by STC (great idea btw, would highly recommend) and figured the turbo blanket is pretty extra atm. I'll maybe eventually get one but for now this is pretty much what I got.
I already had the turbine ceramic coated by STC (great idea btw, would highly recommend) and figured the turbo blanket is pretty extra atm. I'll maybe eventually get one but for now this is pretty much what I got.
The coating doesnt do near what a blanket would do just FYI. Blanket is a great investment.
As Shodan and Lightning are saying, a blanket would help with IAT and underhood temps significantly.
Both Injen and AEM also make intake socks to help repel water and the like. I think one is called a hydroshield or something.
Originally Posted by Balor_Gr
Did anyone ever used one of these to cover the whole compressor cover due to lack of space (with a use of turbo screen off course)
I think while this could in theory work you'd likely see more airflow impediment than you may initially think. I've never seen it done though, would be interesting to compare with other filter combinations or setups.
As Shodan and Lightning are saying, a blanket would help with IAT and underhood temps significantly.
Both Injen and AEM also make intake socks to help repel water and the like. I think one is called a hydroshield or something.
I think while this could in theory work you'd likely see more airflow impediment than you may initially think. I've never seen it done though, would be interesting to compare with other filter combinations or setups.
No restriction in airflow or change in rotational speeds of the turbocharger were found. It's much more permeable than you'd think.
As for the IAT's relation to the intake air of the filter on the compressor wheel, please remember, the compressor wheel is is taking intake air and converting it to pressurized airflow. The charge air from the intercooler will cool that pressurized airflow (and will not be effected by the filter bag) and go into the intake manifold. The efficiency of the intercooler will affect IATs more than any ambient heat sitting in the engine bay.
Some people wrap their upper charge pipes in gold reflective wrap and such, if they feel its necessary, but the quality of the intercooler and its ability to cool that charge air is much more important than these little bandaid steps to cool IATs.
I've gotten around to working on the teg. I can get it to start but not run. I wanted to check with you guys to make sure it's ok to keep trying to start or not worth it and wait til the tune tomorrow. I just don't want to hurt the turbo in anyway. AFR's look normal upon startup, drop to 12 then 11 then it dies. I'm getting a -10psi vacuum when its trying to start/run which seems odd (mentioned before that the mechanical boost gauge is also slightly broken, so could be just the gauge). Towards the end of the video I'm putting some gas on it to try to get it goin, didn't seem to help much, but with each start it seemed to hold a little bit longer. The only thing I can come up with is that the gas is old (~2.5 years old w/ Stabil in it) or the fact that I need to change something in Hondata since I switched where the boost solenoid was routed from the compressor cover to the back of the intake manifold. Previous to this video I did prime the turbo with oil. I took the spark plugs out and the ecu fuse and cranked about 3 times for ~5 seconds.
From the results of the video I took for this it looks like this knock off go pro takes terrible footage. We'll see if I can mess with the lighting settings to get some decent footage of the tune.
04-27-2018, 05:50 PM
Re: STC Hunter B18C Stock Block DC2 Street/Track Build
It was $180 to get the whole set cerakoted. I felt like I got a great deal. High quality job/materials and turnaround was fast. The manifold was tricky to wrap because it was just so darn small. There are a few spots where I had to completely overlap to get to areas that hadn't been covered yet. I couldn't get a few very small spots covered. I need to order longer locking ties to complete the downpipe, it's just being held with zip ties for the moment. I went with a thicker heat wrap overlap on the downpipe, about 1/2"+, because of how close it sits to the radiator and some of my lines.
So you are only running 3 wires to the relay (battery positive, fan positive, ground)? The previous owner ran wires to the fan 1. ran to a switch in the cabin that was grounded and 2. somewhere under the dash (I'll have to check where that runs). I'm pretty sure that he ran it like this (toggled on 24/7) to compensate for the 2 ebay slim fans. I'm going to just use these wires interchangeably with the factory wires since they worked before.
