I would buy a new oil pump. As far as the head goes I would leave the ports alone for your hp goals. Replace the valve stem seals. Check valve guides to make sure they are good. Lap the valves to make sure they seal good. Make sure the head gasket surface is flat. This is all stuff you can do yourself by just picking up some cheap tools.

 

I just wanted to know the specs for the oil pump to see if I would have to shim it at all. You think stock ports for the head should be okay for 450 at the wheel? I plan on picking up some bronze valve guides and new keepers, what kind of seals do you recommend? Once I get the valves out I'll clean them up real good and then lap them, I've got the tools for that already.

 

Intake manifold came in today





Got the case split on the trans and did a quick visual inspection. Gears don't seem to be too bad looking to me, but then again thats why I am here, opinions and answers. Take a look at the gears teeth, you can see 2 wear marks on each tooth, I'm assuming that's pretty average and not too serious?

 

Those arent wear marks, thats part of the machining process

 

I think it also has to do with oiling of the gear faces

 

I used to know I cant remember for the life of me. After about 15 minutes of searching google I think they are for identification.

 

Oh right on, so this transmission is pretty clean then!

 

+1 to the new oil pump also. If you have second guesses at all about the clearances on the other one. It's basically the heart of your engine (pumping the blood). For about $130 it's good insurance to make sure you have a good one on there.

 

Well damn that was a waste of 50$ lol

 

My pistons and rods came today but nobody was home to sign I'll have to wait for tomorrow. I'm getting real anxious to get them so I can get this block done and start assembling. In the mean time I'll be cleaning up the transmission a bit. Looking into an LSD for it, any advice whe to get one for a good price? I really don't want to spend 600$ on one. OEM or something would be more realistic for me I think. I can't seem to find any though

 

An OBX isn't that much. Like 400

 

OBX huh, is that's pretty decent brand? Hate to skimp out when I could spend another 200$ and get a Quaife.


Edit - yeah I think I'll pass on obx, for the extra 200-250$ I'd rather get a good well known LSD. Unless there is another option for less money.


On another note, will I need a main girdle for my set up?

 

If you can get a new quaife for 600-650 that's a pretty good deal. I have over 4K miles on my OBX with no issues. Several others on here have had good luck with them too. Admittedly, there were some quality issues early on when they first started making them. When I got mine I took it apart to make sure the spring washers were installed correctly (lots of info on h-t on how to do this). IIRC the washers were installed correctly, but one of them looked like this. Just ordered replacement washers from McMaster-Carr (got that idea from h-t too).

Come to think of it, I have an LS tranny lying around with an LSD in it (most likely a quaife). I have had it for sale locally in the past, but never really thought about separating the lsd from the tranny. It's in Indianapolis.

 

Well if you'd like to sell that just let me know, I'd like to buy it if it's in good condition

 

Well splitting the case on a transmission is more involved than I normally like to get, especially if its just to take a pic to try to sell a part. But if you wanna come down here, take it apart and inspect it, we can probably work something out. I don't have a stock diff laying around anywhere either, so I would need one to replace it. The 1st 3 pics show the spring washers inside, which should be a dead giveaway that its an LSD. Just not sure at what point a quaife can be distinguished from an OBX. The 4th and 5th pic are of my OBX, prior to having it installed.

 

Well if it's an LS trans, and it's in good condition, why don't we just trade transmissions + some cash on my end?

 

Finally!! The rods and pistons have arrived!

Cannot WAIT to take a day off work to get the block done and start rebuilding.





I think I may just finish the motor N/A and break it in that way then boost once I got some money saved up, maybe even do it over the winter once the year is over.

 

I like.

 

+1

 

Block was sent out today to our machine shop we use through work, highly recommended by several people I know. They just picked it up, going to rebuild the entire bottom end, bore and hone cylinders, hot tank, and check everything out for 450$.

Waiting for the block to be returned now!

 

nice piston and rod combo

 

Thanks, got it from Real Street Performance for an amazing deal

 

Well, I'm waiting for the block to come back from the Machine shop, but while it's in there I'll be picking up some mounts. After I get the mounts I'll be getting some injectors. Any recommendations on injectors? What size and brand?

 

So 450 for-

hot tank
bore
hone
build

any balancing involved?

Im just trying to get a ball park price for a few guys on my other boards who are doing the same thing.

 

That includes balancing the crankshaft and milling the deck, this price is through my discount at work thoug