Slacker93eg

No **** stock size rods? I thought I read somewhere that ls rods aren't good for some reason

kyden

i never said stock rods. i said stock length.

Slacker93eg

Well that's what I meant haha, stock length. My fault

Slacker93eg

Decided against sleeving this block, just a tad out of budget for me at this time. I'll do that next build for sure, I think this time around I'm going to just get a good quality block guard and have the machine shop install it before the bore and hone the block.

My goal is to have this thing started up running by late July early August.. we'll see what my wallet allows.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

I never recommend a block guard for any application. If you insist on one though, make sure its very open, i believe the GE one is the best you can get for coolant flow, but dont quote me on that.

Slacker93eg

That is what i've been reading so far, GE. I could get the block "posted" I believe is what it's called, but that just doesn't seem as safe for some reason.

I see no harm in having the shop install it properly then bore and hone, should be no problems there

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

nothing wrong with block posting, and its less likely to create hot spots then a block guard, the issue is there really is no verifiable way to determine if the block guard is beneficial or hurtful.

kyden

leave the sleeves alone. don't bother with the block guard or posting.

Slacker93eg

I'm curious as to why you say that? I mean if I have everything apart and it's going to a machine shop already why not?

I like to hear everybody's opinions

kyden

cause a block guard does nothing for strength. even golden eagle admits they only make it because people buy it.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

because they really do absolutely nothing to be honest, and the risks associated with obstructing the cooling around the sleeve outweigh the potential imaginary benefits people seem to experience by using them. The sleeves that i have seen fail with block guards installed, just fail in a different place the block guard doesn't protect lol but ultimately if your pushing the sleeve to the point of failure, it will find a way to fail.

Slacker93eg

Oh I've never even thought about it that way.. Maybe I will leave the sleeves alone then and see what happens.

Slacker93eg

Not too much progress today, just got the crank out and pulled coolant tube out. Does the dipstick tube come out the same way? Just pull? Next step is to get the block taken to a machine shop and have it bored/honed and cleaned. Should be doing that later this week, I will keep posting pictures and updates!

b20vtech

this reminds me of myself about 10 years ago when I did my first engine build.

if you do decide on that block guard make sure it sits in about an inch or so lower than the deck of the block, this way coolant can get to the top and prevent overheating or warping.

Slacker93eg

Thanks for the tip, I'm going to leave the sleeves completely untouched (aside from boring them), and see what I can do. I already know this won't be my last build haha.

b20vtech

not sure how much hp you're going for, im at 300 low boost on stock b20 sleeves no block guard, going for 400 soon and im not hesitating one bit about the sleeves.

Slacker93eg

350-450 at the wheels is what I'm looking for on my first build

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Well, then a block guard isn't even necessary. Once you take your block and crank to the machine shop, also see if you can get your pistons to them so they can precisely bore and hone the cylinders in one stop. that's the best way to make sure that your ring gap and pistons will fit perfectly. Otherwise, you'll basically pay a bit more labor and headache to send your pistons BACK with the block to make sure they are seated properly..

Time to get your rods as well. Start thinking of a clutch and whether or not you want a lightened flywheel or not.

You want to make as FEW trips to the machine shop as possible. So its really best to plan ahead.

macjac07

Did you decide on which head to use yet?

Slacker93eg

Yeah I'm ordering my pistons first, then I'm going straight to the machine shop. I found a place real close to me so it's no inconvienence having to go there. As for the flywheel I think I'm just going to have the stock one shaved and call it a day. Rods and clutch will come shortly after.

As for the head I'm going to stick with the b16 head, most I can find are going for 700$ or more so I may have to save up a bit for that, depends on my tax return $$$$$$$ haha.



Shodan I just realized your from Chicago too? Right on man if I finish this soon enough we'll have to cruise this summer

Slacker93eg

So saturday I will be getting a set of CP pistons for 500$, this price seem good?

Slacker93eg

Bump, never bought pistons before. Someone I know is ordering them from his shop for me, is that a good deal?

b20vtech

500 for cp is good deal

Slacker93eg

Thanks for the input. I'm excited to get them. Can't wait for reassembly!

Slacker93eg

Update, looks like I'll have to wait till tomorrow to order the pistons. On another note, my buddy's selling me a GSR head for 300$, so I'll be picking that up soon. Post more pictures once I get that. Any recommendations on oil pans? Do they sell the, pre tapped for oil return?