After driving my car and letting it sit for like 1.5 to 2 hrs my car has a hard time starting up. Sometimes it will start then just stall and other times it will just stutter. After about a minute of this it will idle normal. The weird thing is if i gas it and keep the rpms up for like 5 to 10 sec. it will idle normal, but throw a code 17 (VSS sensor). I don't know if its related or what? All this started happening after I got my hondata installed. Hasanyone ever experience this?

 

I have that problem occasionally, as a matter of fact, I did get a code 17 too. But I only threw that code 1 time. I reset the ecu and the code hasn't came back. *SHRUGS*

 

I had that problem, but only when it was hot outside.
I got the hondata update and everything was fine after that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by buh_buh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had that problem, but only when it was hot outside.
I got the hondata update and everything was fine after that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you talking about the update that came out last week?

 

Unplug the Evap purge valve, usually located on the firewall.

 

sounds like your cold start maps are off

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spunkster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unplug the Evap purge valve, usually located on the firewall.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spunkster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unplug the Evap purge valve, usually located on the firewall.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks matt and dax. I'll give that a try. How does having the Evap purge valve plugged in cause that problem? Btw, anyone else get a code 17 when this happens?

 

Some setups running hondata have a problem with the evap control solenoid and startup. Unplugging the solenoid will stop the problem. Most setups that experience this problem are B18C1's using a P28 computer, but other setups have seen similar problems. You can do a search on the hondata forum [http://hondata.com/forum] and there are a few topics on it.

 

I'm guessing the the plug on top of the EVAP canister is the for the valve looking for, is this correct?

 

I think you're confused...you want to remove the electrical connection [plug] from the evaporative purge solenoid. This is a small sensor located somewhere near your intake manifold, it looks like it has a little hat on it. It has an electrical connection with two wires, one vac hose running to the intake manifold, and one running to the charcoal canister located on the firewall.

 

wow, my car starts better after it has been driven then sitting for a few hours. Its the completely cold start ups in the morning my car does not like.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think you're confused...you want to remove the electrical connection [plug] from the evaporative purge solenoid. This is a small sensor located somewhere near your intake manifold, it looks like it has a little hat on it. It has an electrical connection with two wires, one vac hose running to the intake manifold, and one running to the charcoal canister located on the firewall.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No wonder it didn't work. Ok let's try this again. This time I follow the vac. line that was labeled "purge" on the canister. It was attached to a sensor on top of my intake mani. Does that sound right? The only thing is I didn't see the other vac line you were talking about.

Thanks.

 

One vac line should go into the side [coming from the charcoal canister] and the other line comes out of the bottom and goes to a vacuum source [intake manifold].

 

Thanks again Dax. This time I'm for sure this is the right one. I ended up match up the wire colors with what the Helm's Maual said they should be. Now that the purge valve is disconnected what happens to all the fuel vapor that is stored in the canister?

 

Not sure, maybe it seeps out on it's own?

 

i took my cannister completely out and long with everthing to go along with the purge system...we dont have emissions

 

Hey, I've been having this problem for over a year now ever since I got my Hondata installed, but I disconnected the evap/purge connector and now it starts up great. Good Post

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2000GSRT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I disconnected the evap/purge connector and now it starts up great. Good Post </TD></TR></TABLE>

Can someone give me a picture of this evap/purge connector?? A picture speaks a million words...please anyone? I am running into the same exact problem.

Also I found this on the Hondata forum..is this something I should be worried about?

leaving the purge solonoid valve unplugged can cause fuel pressure to build up if unburned hydrocarbons are not allowed to vent back into the system to be burnt...

ie. fuel actually pouring out the gas cap


Khoi

 

Here is a diagram, just unplug the plastic connector. It sits right on top on the intake manifold

 

so what are the pros and cons to unplugging the evap? And what does the EVAP actually do? Also why does it help to unplug it?

Khoi

 

from what I understand, it collects all the unburnt gas and oil that escapes the cylinders and stores it in the charcoal canister which gets put back into your intake manifold and burnt off.

Im not sure exactly why it helps to unplug it, but I'm guessing it has something to do with the oil and gas vapors causing the car to run rich and stall out.