When ppl say beat on it to have the rings seat correctly, I always thought to beat on it while on a dyno. I guess I need some clarification. What i plan to do was to tow car to dyno and have an experienced tuner break it in on the dyno. To OP, sorry that this happened. Lesson learned.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wantboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wanna know how he bored it as well</TD></TR></TABLE>

ooohh ooohhh me too

 

damn, all these haters. i was out snowboarding tryin to figure out what i am gonna do, and its already at 3 pages.
I didn't bore it, only honed it. and i wasn't beating on it. 1 pull to about 68, or 7 grand, i don't consider beating it. Everyone here must drive like lil bitches then. Yea i was mad when i threw this post up, still am heated, but yea well, compression test time.
Maybe somone could enlighten me on how to PROPERLY break in a new motor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ICeDoUt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn, all these haters. i was out snowboarding tryin to figure out what i am gonna do, and its already at 3 pages.
I didn't bore it, only honed it. and i wasn't beating on it. 1 pull to about 68, or 7 grand, i don't consider beating it. Everyone here must drive like lil bitches then. Yea i was mad when i threw this post up, still am heated, but yea well, compression test time.
Maybe somone could enlighten me on how to PROPERLY break in a new motor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Opps sorry Vince I thought you bored it.

You know how to properly break in the motor. Just beat on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by underpressure02 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Opps sorry Vince I thought you bored it.

You know how to properly break in the motor. Just beat on it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't need to know how to break it, just how to break it in. i am the expert at breakin motors

 

compression test results are in:

110 105 50 40
130 125 60 45 (when oil is added to cyl)

 

i think that motor is fuxored. pull the head. i think you got more than just the rings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ICeDoUt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn, all these haters. i was out snowboarding tryin to figure out what i am gonna do, and its already at 3 pages.
I didn't bore it, only honed it. and i wasn't beating on it. 1 pull to about 68, or 7 grand, i don't consider beating it. Everyone here must drive like lil bitches then. Yea i was mad when i threw this post up, still am heated, but yea well, compression test time.
Maybe somone could enlighten me on how to PROPERLY break in a new motor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its not about revving to 7k. Its about redlining in fifth gear. Going to 7k in first is VERY different than going to 7k in fifth because of added resistance, and obviously staying in boost for a lot longer causing heat soak.

Most people on this site that like to keep their motors running dont boost much in 5th

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im sure it was the lack of a tune that did his motor in not the RPM.
Expensive Lesson...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed, many will tell you to go straight to the dyno after a build. For one, you need to be tuned immediately, and two, the break in period really isn't required.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegunderpressure &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Agreed, many will tell you to go straight to the dyno after a build. For one, you need to be tuned immediately, and two, the break in period really isn't required.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well what is the difference between street tuning and Dyno tuning? Everyone keeps saying dyno tune it. But I would rather have my car street tuned first before throwing it on the dyno and doing some hard core pulls. Just my .02

 

I agree, street tune it first, don't rev the **** out of it just get a good base tune on it. And some say to seat the rings you just have to go beat on the motor. I really don't like that advice, I would say gradually step it up. Not like first run go out and hammer on it, but some say to do that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m R g S r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

whaaaaat? I need to see that. . . </TD></TR></TABLE>

long story short.

Audi owner wants to "extrude hone" /port-polish his intake mani.

someone on the board "suggests" that he rev up the motor and stick the intake in to a bag of kids playground sand (as extrusehone is an abrasive media). little did they know he's a car n00b and did it, effectively roasting his motor and seizing it.

people thought he was joking, apparently it was true.

reminds me of the guy who though water cooling his PC involved a tube of silicone and 5 galons of cold water

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted350z &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your an I D I O T , if you took it to 7,000 on the first few miles.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're an I D I O T if you think you can't and shouldn't hard break in motors. How do you think Nascar people break in their hardcore motors, do they drive them on the street at 1500 RPM's for 500 miles? NO. They throw them on the dyno, and ****** rip into them. Then they procede to turn these motors at 9000+ RPM's for 500 miles, tell me breaking in the motor hard on the dyno doesn't work.

 

i break in all my motors by some what raging on them for 20miles (not going above 6k in 3rd) then change the oil, then drive it normally for about 500miles. Works great on the motor's i've built. But 7k in 5th is a no no for a brand new rebuild

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by @lbert &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You're an I D I O T if you think you can't and shouldn't hard break in motors. How do you think Nascar people break in their hardcore motors, do they drive them on the street at 1500 RPM's for 500 miles? NO. They throw them on the dyno, and ****** rip into them. Then they procede to turn these motors at 9000+ RPM's for 500 miles, tell me breaking in the motor hard on the dyno doesn't work.</TD></TR></TABLE>

BUT... they do not go into boost at high RPM's in a gear that is less than 1:1... THAT is what is bad for the motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by underpressure02 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well what is the difference between street tuning and Dyno tuning? Everyone keeps saying dyno tune it. But I would rather have my car street tuned first before throwing it on the dyno and doing some hard core pulls. Just my .02</TD></TR></TABLE>

I should have rephrased what I said. Any type of tuning should do, assuming its accurate. I just meant that you need to get it tuned, one way or another, asap.

 

Somebody give this guy a worthy title.

 

He bored it with the good ol' chisel and hammer.

 

Guess who's back ... back again ...

Wow Vince, I haven't laughed this hard in awhile ...

 

Sorry to here about your misfortune, but you should look on this site or check overboost tech articles. but I hope this helps this is really technical though.


Americans aren't usually considered patient people. The TCP/IP protocol—the very foundation of Internet communication as we know it—was invented by Uncle Sam to ensure the military would have access to reliable, decentralized data communication in war zones. Civilian use of the Internet started becoming common at universities in the late 1980s; at the turn of the 21st century, Internet access is viewed by Americans as important as running water and more important than home telephone service. Millions of dollars are transferred over the 'net daily; orders for food, medication, heck, even DMV appointments. Generations of Americans can now be lumped together into one: The instant-gratification generation. Our international peers view us as "eager for progress." (Read: impatient.) In Japan, vehicle owner manuals list, in detail, a long procedure for breaking in the engine in a new car. These same vehicles sold in the U.S. simply state something to the effect of "drive it easy for 500 miles. Change oil at 5,000 miles."

The polished surface on this cam is from a good break-in.
Why is Break-In Necessary?

Most people do it only because they're told to, without knowing the mechanics of what goes on inside a new engine, so we'll start you with an analogy. Imagine someone telling you to cut a piece of plywood into a perfect circle. Then they give you a larger piece of plywood and tell you to cut a hole in it so you could perfectly insert that circle. You'd be hugely lucky if it fit. And if it did, the fit would be pretty rough. No matter how precise you do the work, you'd have to account for thickness of the blade, little fibers of the wood that stick out and interfere, curvature of the wood upsetting your perfect lines and so on and so forth. There'd be an unavoidable bit of error in all your work.

Manufacturing items out of metal presents many of these problems. Making precision parts from metal usually involves grinding, cutting, forging or casting. These processes absorb or release heat, and temperature changes cause metal to expand and contract. The machines used to make the machines also wear, adding further dimensional changes to the product.

This affects the final product because each piece will have expanded and contracted slightly differently than other pieces in a manufacturing run, and when you assemble 100 small pieces, each with a different size than the next, the error compounds and the final product is quite a bit different than what's expected. Engineers can account for most of the error, and the nice word for it is "tolerance."

Let's say you design a piston that's 100-millimeters in diameter. After doing a small production run the pistons roll off the mill anywhere from 99.50-millimeters to 100.50-millimeters in diameter. You have a tolerance of 1.00-millimeter, or 100 mm +/- 0.50 mm. Living with error is just a fact of life.

As we said earlier, each component has its own design tolerance, and all those half-millimeter errors could potentially pile up into something big. (Which they usually do.) Let's also remember that running an engine causes it to wear—wear is a type of machine work in its own rite, and wear will be the final "machine work" step an engine will see. Since engine parts are solidly affixed together, the type of wear they experience helps to mate things together; a dating-leading-to-marriage type deal.

What Are The Mechanics Behind Break-In?

All right, now you know why there is such thing as break-in. Now the question becomes: What specifically in a new engine needs to be broken in? The short answer is "everything." Many engine parts do not require a critical break-in process, but most of the major parts do: Camshaft, lifters, engine block, pistons and rings. The crankshaft and connecting rods don't really wear per se, but they do contain internal stresses as they roll off the assembly line. Heat cycling relieves the stresses over a short period of time, but also changes their shape, in turn affecting how a piston bears against its cylinder wall, how high it reaches at TDC, etc. Anyway, that's practically bordering on a nano approach to engine break-in, so we'll stick to the major points.

# Camshaft lobes wear parallel to lifter pads.

# Camshaft bearing bores wear to fit camshaft journals.

# Piston rings seat to bore shape.

# Piston skirts fit to bore shape.

# Heat cycling settles bearing caps, head-to-block fit, etc.

# Connecting rods stretch at RPM, putting piston higher up into unworn sections of the bore.


In actuality, it takes very few miles for a piston ring to seat.

Let's go over the term "ring seating." Many people are under the mistaken impression that piston rings take a long time to seat; in actuality, it takes very few miles for a normal piston ring to seat. Having said that, what is ring seating? Each cylinder is honed to round, but of course there is a tolerance, so the cylinder won't be completely dead-accurate round. The piston ring meant for the bore won't be a perfect circle either, so what you have are two out-of-round circles. Imagine a cylinder bore in an oval shape. The piston ring is an oval shape too, but it's installed with the points of the oblong perpendicular to the cylinder. Start the engine and the ring will pop into place. With round rings, running an engine will cause the rings to rotate slightly about their axes, and eventually they'll "snap" into position in the bore. That's how rings seat.

All right, we've covered a lot of ground here in the Overboost Fire Hose Classroom style. Now let's go over the actual how-to break in a new engine.

# 0-200 miles: Keep under 3,000 RPM. No lugging the engine (let it rev free). Give it about 10 first-gear shots to 4,000 RPM.


# 200-400 miles: Raise rev ceiling to 4,000 RPM with 10 first and second-gear shots to 4,500 RPM.


# 400-600 miles: Rev ceiling to 4,500 RPM with 10 shots to 5,000 RPM through third gear.


# 600-800 miles: Rev ceiling to 5,500 RPM with 10 shots to 6,000 RPM.


# 800-1000 miles: Rev ceiling to 6,000 RPM with 10 shots to 6,500 RPM.

Change the oil and filter at 1,000 miles. If your engine uses mechanical valve lifters (most Hondas), check the valve lash too, since valve lash will change the most during engine break-in. Usually the lash gets smaller because the valve will settle a bit deeper into its seat. Too little valve lash can kill fuel economy and power because it will reduce manifold vacuum. Other than that you're ready to rip.

A few key points. Keep your driving style random. No keeping the engine sitting at a certain speed on the freeway and no doing your 10 higher-RPM shots right in a row. You want to accelerate briskly in lower gears with plenty of RPM variation and lots of decelerating while in gear. Also, don't use synthetic oil for break-in purposes. Use the crappiest SAE-approved engine oil you can as long as it's the proper weight. When you see new cars that come with a factory fill of synthetic oil, the break-in procedure has been handled at the factory.

Now, why the strict RPM control? Since the parts aren't mated in a new engine, as they would be on a used engine, some parts will be running tighter than they should, and over-revving them can overheat them from friction. Excessive heat will weaken parts and break down engine oil more quickly. We should caution you about breaking in the engine at too low an RPM as well; higher RPM means more volume from the oil pump and allows the connecting rods to stretch, which in turn allows the pistons to explore their upper reach into the combustion chamber.

Brand New Engines

When you buy a new car, "dry" starting of the engine and oil system priming has been taken care of for you. If you're in a situation where you've rebuilt an engine and it is completely green, you can follow the above break-in procedure but only after prefacing it with a few other items. First of all, you'll want the oil system primed before firing the engine. When we build engines here this is how we do it. The pistons, rings and cylinder walls are sprayed liberally with WD-40 with the piston pins lubed with 20W-50 engine oil. Assembly lube everywhere else, but absolutely no assembly lube in the cylinder bores. Assemble and install the engine without sparkplugs, crank engine on the starter until oil pressure builds, then install plugs and fire. Camshafts will require their own break-in procedure; this is simply done by immediately revving the engine to 2,500 RPM and holding it there for 20 minutes. Once that's done, start driving.

Engines That Have Been Sitting

Similar to starting a dry engine for the first time. Remove sparkplugs, spray liberal amount of WD-40 into the combustion chamber, crank engine to build oil pressure, install plugs and go. And of course, clean out the sparkplug bores if dirt threatens to fall into the engine when you pull the plugs.

What About Race Engines? I Never See Them Being Broken In!

Race engines don't have to last 100,000 miles on the street either! One primary trick to getting race engines broken-in very quickly is to make every mating surface rough. The roughness increases the initial abrasion that causes break-in. Of course, the engine wears more, but in a race situation the idea is fast break-in with engine life taking a back seat to just about everything else.

One last thing... even though we say rip the RPM to like 6k we know you're not going to exceed the speed limit. Have fun and be safe.





Modified by Mr. Miyagi at 9:04 AM 12/24/2004