SMC and JRSC questions..........
11-04-2002, 12:24 PM
#1
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SMC and JRSC questions..........
1) i've been reading a lot of posts lately about people having great luck with the SMC on their turbo setups. would it work just as well on a B16 JRSC @ 6PSI? i'm running it OBD-0.
2) is it true that if i get the SMC and 450cc injectors that i could run the stock fuel pump and also eliminate the need for the jackson racing FMU? in other words, i could keep my fuel system stock with exception to larger injectors?
thankyou!
2) is it true that if i get the SMC and 450cc injectors that i could run the stock fuel pump and also eliminate the need for the jackson racing FMU? in other words, i could keep my fuel system stock with exception to larger injectors?
thankyou!
11-04-2002, 03:47 PM
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Re: SMC and JRSC questions.......... (keebler65)
Here is a recent SMC customer with a JRSC:
from:
http://forums.clubsi.com/showflat.ph...sb=5&o=0&fpart=
And another JRSC owner:
I busted my *** all day today to install my 450cc's and the SMC, but it was well worth it!
The SMC installation is easy if you've installed any electronic component in your car before. It's got five wires: 12+ V, ground, rpm signal, MAP in, and MAP out. Nothing too tough. Clearing the old JR MAP Converter out and figuring out my rats nest of wires took more time.
The injectors were more of a pain in the *** though. Soldering in the individual resistors means three solder joints per injector, with the new clips. I also bored out the inner diameter of the injector seals that seat in the manifold to help the new injectors seat cleanly. This step could probably be skipped, but it seamed to me than you'd be stressing the seals if you didn't do this.
I also had to convert my fuel delivery back to using a FPR. I was using a Vortech SFMU which does double-duty as an FMU and FPR. So I had to track down a bunch of fasteners and fittings that I was missing to use a FPR. That meant two trips to Lowe's... that took a bunch of time too.
So everything's installed....she fired right up idling a little rough. I leaned it out a bit, hit the "Program" button to burn it to the chip, idles great... amazing.
I went for a drive and tune session. With my J&S and the SMC, tuning is easy and effective. The first rpm range is idle-1500 rpms. This is best used for tuning the car at idle. Who cares if you're running rich up to 1500 rpms, right? Then it's 1500-4000 rpms. I get on it to 4000 rpms. No detonation showing up on the gauge, so I lean it out a bit. Still no detonation. I leave well enough alone. Then on to 4000-6000 rpms. I get a few lights on the J&S. Richen it up, hit the "Program" button, burn it to the chip, no more detonation. 6000-8000 rpms, no detonation. I wasn't expecting any because of how rich the ECU runs in this range. I lean it out, burn it to the chip, no detonation. Car pulls hard up top! Why not lean it out a little more, right? The magic "Program" button... WOW! The car pulls so hard to redline right now. I can't wait to get this thing on the dyno and do some real tuning. I'm still keeping it conservative right now so it's got more to go.
The SMC absolutely cannot be beat! My fuel pressure is 48 psi... constantly! [laugh] No more 90 psi! The car drives so much better coming off of a short boost run. I used to bog and jerk if I let off the gas at the wrong time. Now, the car is just smooth as silk in any situation. I imagine this is a lot like what a standalone controlled car drives like. Amazing! A+ I'll have it on the dyno sometime early this coming week. I'll post results.
Taken from:
http://forums.clubsi.com/showflat.ph...sb=5&o=0&fpart=
First off I want to thank Zip for his support with my questions before and after the install. He's a quick responder and definately knows his stuff.
As for the install, it was a breeze. It took all of maybe an hour to wire it up. Another hour to pull the FMU, install the new injectors, install an OBD1 IAT sensor and relocate the Map sensor. Instructions were clear and detailed.
When I started my car it fired right up. The Idle was a little high so I trimmed the 0/1.5k setting to about 40% and got a smooth Idle around 900 rpm. I gave it some gas and let off and there was no rpm bounce. After that I took it out for a test run. Before I adjusted any of the other settings, I was able to drive around with no hessitation and as I got into boost the transition was smooth. Now I needed to lean out the other settings because my A/F gauge was pegged in the rich zone during hard acceleration and at wot. So I pull over, increase the the setting to 40% across the board puched the program button. I got back on the road and gunned it again and noticed a remakable improvment. The throttle response from a dead start is much, much better. While cruising, if I punch it, I noticed a nice kick (much stronger than before). When I get into vtec it feels alot stronger, as well. If I had to guess I'd say I picked up another 20whp up top.
As for my set up. I'm boosting 10psi on a 99 Civic Si, I have the B&M adjustable chop top set to 43 psi, timing is 16btdc with the JRBTC set to 4 clicks with no detonation and I'm using rc 440 injectors.
Now this is just a preliminary review, I plan to take it to the dyno to tweak it out to it's full potential and will post my numbers then. As for now I can say that I'm impressed with it's performance. For all you Vafc hackers or any one using the vafc/afc with boost, this is much easier to self tune and I feel you have much better controll over the pulse of your injectors. I feel much safer running this than I did with the vafc. You simply can't beat this product for the money. If your like me and can't spend the money for a Hondata right away then this is definatly the way to go. No guess work, no searching other post for setups, very satisfying results.
Thanks for a great product Zip.
As for the install, it was a breeze. It took all of maybe an hour to wire it up. Another hour to pull the FMU, install the new injectors, install an OBD1 IAT sensor and relocate the Map sensor. Instructions were clear and detailed.
When I started my car it fired right up. The Idle was a little high so I trimmed the 0/1.5k setting to about 40% and got a smooth Idle around 900 rpm. I gave it some gas and let off and there was no rpm bounce. After that I took it out for a test run. Before I adjusted any of the other settings, I was able to drive around with no hessitation and as I got into boost the transition was smooth. Now I needed to lean out the other settings because my A/F gauge was pegged in the rich zone during hard acceleration and at wot. So I pull over, increase the the setting to 40% across the board puched the program button. I got back on the road and gunned it again and noticed a remakable improvment. The throttle response from a dead start is much, much better. While cruising, if I punch it, I noticed a nice kick (much stronger than before). When I get into vtec it feels alot stronger, as well. If I had to guess I'd say I picked up another 20whp up top.
As for my set up. I'm boosting 10psi on a 99 Civic Si, I have the B&M adjustable chop top set to 43 psi, timing is 16btdc with the JRBTC set to 4 clicks with no detonation and I'm using rc 440 injectors.
Now this is just a preliminary review, I plan to take it to the dyno to tweak it out to it's full potential and will post my numbers then. As for now I can say that I'm impressed with it's performance. For all you Vafc hackers or any one using the vafc/afc with boost, this is much easier to self tune and I feel you have much better controll over the pulse of your injectors. I feel much safer running this than I did with the vafc. You simply can't beat this product for the money. If your like me and can't spend the money for a Hondata right away then this is definatly the way to go. No guess work, no searching other post for setups, very satisfying results.
Thanks for a great product Zip.
http://forums.clubsi.com/showflat.ph...sb=5&o=0&fpart=
And another JRSC owner:
I busted my *** all day today to install my 450cc's and the SMC, but it was well worth it!
The SMC installation is easy if you've installed any electronic component in your car before. It's got five wires: 12+ V, ground, rpm signal, MAP in, and MAP out. Nothing too tough. Clearing the old JR MAP Converter out and figuring out my rats nest of wires took more time.
The injectors were more of a pain in the *** though. Soldering in the individual resistors means three solder joints per injector, with the new clips. I also bored out the inner diameter of the injector seals that seat in the manifold to help the new injectors seat cleanly. This step could probably be skipped, but it seamed to me than you'd be stressing the seals if you didn't do this.
I also had to convert my fuel delivery back to using a FPR. I was using a Vortech SFMU which does double-duty as an FMU and FPR. So I had to track down a bunch of fasteners and fittings that I was missing to use a FPR. That meant two trips to Lowe's... that took a bunch of time too.
So everything's installed....she fired right up idling a little rough. I leaned it out a bit, hit the "Program" button to burn it to the chip, idles great... amazing.
I went for a drive and tune session. With my J&S and the SMC, tuning is easy and effective. The first rpm range is idle-1500 rpms. This is best used for tuning the car at idle. Who cares if you're running rich up to 1500 rpms, right? Then it's 1500-4000 rpms. I get on it to 4000 rpms. No detonation showing up on the gauge, so I lean it out a bit. Still no detonation. I leave well enough alone. Then on to 4000-6000 rpms. I get a few lights on the J&S. Richen it up, hit the "Program" button, burn it to the chip, no more detonation. 6000-8000 rpms, no detonation. I wasn't expecting any because of how rich the ECU runs in this range. I lean it out, burn it to the chip, no detonation. Car pulls hard up top! Why not lean it out a little more, right? The magic "Program" button... WOW! The car pulls so hard to redline right now. I can't wait to get this thing on the dyno and do some real tuning. I'm still keeping it conservative right now so it's got more to go.
The SMC absolutely cannot be beat! My fuel pressure is 48 psi... constantly! [laugh] No more 90 psi! The car drives so much better coming off of a short boost run. I used to bog and jerk if I let off the gas at the wrong time. Now, the car is just smooth as silk in any situation. I imagine this is a lot like what a standalone controlled car drives like. Amazing! A+ I'll have it on the dyno sometime early this coming week. I'll post results.
http://forums.clubsi.com/showflat.ph...sb=5&o=0&fpart=
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