I have noticed that when someone is looking for a cheap turbo build up on thier car, sometimes they are told to not worry about sleeving unless they are going to lay down some serious power, and that there are more critical things to worry about. now what if someone does have the money but has no reason to push more than 200-250WHP, is sleeving a good option for protection? I know that in some cases certain modifications/upgrades are pointless unless it's necessary because of high power applications such as Oversized intercoolers on small turbos, is this one of thoes upgrades? Is it possible to cause damage or maybe even loose power because of sleeving? I know this is a weird question but i'm trying to really get a good understanding on how it all works and what better place than HT. Thanks guys in advance

 

If you're shooting for 200-250whp, not only will you NEVER have to sleeve, you wont even need to build the engine. I'm at 315whp on a bone stock GSR....aftermarket sleeving is not going to do anything except make your wallet lighter and you feel better

 

you will be fine with out sleeving if you are looking for that kind of power sleeving won't hurt you...

 

if you have the money to sleeve why only shoot for 200 to 250hp?

 

Thanks for the info guys

 

I also have that question like you and the guys said that they ran 400hp stock motor but that tooooo much but 200-250 dont wory but at the same time dont race toooooooooooo much you should be fine I am going for like 380hp and I am not sleeveing cost tooooo much

 

I'm aiming 400whp but did sleeve. Knowing I'm that boost and power junkie, I'll probably go higher after a while.

 

i am the same way, daily driver, 400whp and i beat the **** out of it. I have also cracked a stock sleeve with after market pistons so i decided to never have to worry about the block again and just got it sleeved.

 

If you have the money, sleeve it for sure. If you dont, then just take it easy for now until you do have the money to do it. Shoot for like 300whp. Why 380? Is this the first time you'll be driving a turbo car with this kind of power? Just wondering, b/c even with 300whp you'll have a blast and it'll be more then enough for the street.

 

it will easily make 250 with 10-14psi on stock with head studs.

 

you can have overheating problems with a sleeve block dont do it if your going to run 200 to 300whp its a waste of money

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsvtec300 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can have overheating problems with a sleeve block don't do it if your going to run 200 to 300whp its a waste of money </TD></TR></TABLE> i wish people would stop saying that it is untrue if anything our sleeved blocks run cooler then stock we have never had over heating problems with our blocks and i don't know of any other sleeving company that has ether it is a myth the people saying that have never had a sleeved block and need to stop spreading rumors

 

What motor is it? Regardless, 200-250whp would be easy to achieve on any B-series without sleeving. If its a D-series, 200 could be achievable, but if we are talking 250, I would sleeve. Go have some fun and boost now!

 

u are telling me ur sleeve blocks well run cooler than a stock honda blocks i want u to say why

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsvtec300 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u are telling me ur sleeve blocks well run cooler than a stock honda blocks i want u to say why </TD></TR></TABLE>

English?

 

A wet ductile iron liner whether Golden Eagle or Darton MID, which I install, will transfer less heat to the coolant than will the stock aluminum lined iron liner block. In other words, more of the heat energy will be used to make power instead of heating the coolant.

I just did an MID on a GM LS7 427 race engine. This engine in a desert race vehicle, always ran over 200 degree coolant temp. I sleeved the block, engine was reassembled using the same exact parts as before. Coolant temp now between 160 and 170 degrees at the same outside air temp. Engine made more power on the dyno as well because of heat retention and because the MID liners stay much rounder in service and also provide a better surface for the rings to ride on.

Steve

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Steve D &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A wet ductile iron liner whether Golden Eagle or Darton MID, which I install, will transfer less heat to the coolant than will the stock aluminum lined iron liner block.</TD></TR></TABLE>

it sounds like your saying the coolant temp is lower because the iron liner retains more of the heat than aluminum, is that really keeping the motor cool though? what are the oil temps like?

but to answer the OP's questions sleeving for your hp goal is a total waste of money, im making over 330whp on stock sleeves and pump gas...

 

if an oem part can do the job than it is the part for the job, at 250whp i would rather have an unopened motor than a completely built/sleeved motor. keep it simple.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike@synapse motorsport &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if an oem part can do the job than it is the part for the job, at 250whp i would rather have an unopened motor than a completely built/sleeved motor. keep it simple.</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Steve D &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A wet ductile iron liner whether Golden Eagle or Darton MID, which I install, will transfer less heat to the coolant than will the stock aluminum lined iron liner block. In other words, more of the heat energy will be used to make power instead of heating the coolant.

I just did an MID on a GM LS7 427 race engine. This engine in a desert race vehicle, always ran over 200 degree coolant temp. I sleeved the block, engine was reassembled using the same exact parts as before. Coolant temp now between 160 and 170 degrees at the same outside air temp. Engine made more power on the dyno as well because of heat retention and because the MID liners stay much rounder in service and also provide a better surface for the rings to ride on.

Steve </TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blinx9900 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

it sounds like your saying the coolant temp is lower because the iron liner retains more of the heat than aluminum, is that really keeping the motor cool though? what are the oil temps like?

but to answer the OP's questions sleeving for your hp goal is a total waste of money, im making over 330whp on stock sleeves and pump gas...</TD></TR></TABLE>