Is it true that your sleeves flex under boost? After time this flexing gets worse and will eventually destroy the motor. Even if you have a n/a block sleeved, that it will still flex and blow eventually. Compared to a turbo block from the factory or a dart block, which i heard that they have supports in the blocks that prevent the sleeves from moving which is why they can handle boost alot better. Any feedback would be appreciated.

 

wow, noone has any comments on this?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicGSR225 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it true that your sleeves flex under boost? After time this flexing gets worse and will eventually destroy the motor. Any feedback would be appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Everything moves to some degree due to heat,stress, vibration. Anything will give before it resists and any material will shift as it stress relieves. The heating,cooling and different vibrations created by a motor will stress relieve a block. As HP increases so does torque. Turning linear motion into rotary causes side loads on the pistons and sleeves.This is why we use a seasoned block(stress relieved), close the deck by CNC machining the cavity,plate and sleeve head(to support the side thrust) without distorting the sleeve. After sleeve installation, we align hone and torque plate hone the cylinders. We also offer a 5 main girdle to strengthen the bottom end on B blocks.A New block will stress relieve as soon as it's ran.

 

so would a dart block, or a built B block be a better candidate?

 

The Dart block is good, in fact we have built them for some customers. If you use one, I highly recomend that you heat cycle it for at least 24 hours and then re-deck it, align hone, cylinder hone it. We measured 1 before and after 24 hrs of heating and cooling on our CMM and it changed significantly, so don't plan on buying it and not paying more for machine work. We prefer using a seasoned block that's already stress relieved and machine it back right as I said earlier (and it costs less). Check out who does the machine work and that they close the deck if you do the factory block. Also ask if the sleeve are Ductile Iron and pressed, not epoxied.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicGSR225 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so would a dart block, or a built B block be a better candidate?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Duh?!

Sleeves + forged internals = WIN! (Plus tuning of course!)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Finest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Duh?!

Sleeves + forged internals = WIN! (Plus tuning of course!) </TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe you mis understood me, i was asking which would hold up better, a sleeved be series block, or a presleeved dart block....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicGSR225 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Maybe you mis understood me, i was asking which would hold up better, a sleeved be series block, or a presleeved dart block....</TD></TR></TABLE>

I meant either way is fine. But like quickcarl stated, a seasoned block is already "broken in", so sleeving a used block would be better. You can get the Dart block and heat cycle it, but that just adds time and money in the process. It's cheaper to send out a block to get sleeved anyways.

BUT, to answer your original question: Golden Eagle offers sleeves with built in supports to prevent shifting of the cylinders.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quickcarl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The Dart block is good, in fact we have built them for some customers. If you use one, I highly recomend that you heat cycle it for at least 24 hours and then re-deck it, align hone, cylinder hone it. We measured 1 before and after 24 hrs of heating and cooling on our CMM and it changed significantly, so don't plan on buying it and not paying more for machine work. We prefer using a seasoned block that's already stress relieved </TD></TR></TABLE>

Can you season a Dart block the old fashioned way? As in, just stick it outside for a half year or so like I was told they used to do with the domestic blocks? (Is that true, btw)

Nice to see you lurking about.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Can you season a Dart block the old fashioned way? As in, just stick it outside for a half year or so like I was told they used to do with the domestic blocks? (Is that true, btw)

Nice to see you lurking about.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes you can, just as the machine tool builders poured their castings 2 years in advance and set them outside thru the seasons to stabilize them before machining. There are also companies that stress relieve thru heat or variable vibration to speed up the process. $$$ The aluminum will move more than cast iron .

 

thanks guys for your replies

 

Thank Carl... not only is he a resident expert, I find it perversely satisfying that he doesn't advertise the company he works for. I'm sure we'll all know in due time, but for intent on a forum that has attracted commercial ****** for too long.

 

Thanks, just putting in my opinion for discussion. There's always somebody that knows more on a topic, thats why you have discussions. It really hurts the new generation of hot rodders when people try to sell stuff that really isn't reliable (not referring to Dart Blocks) to them just to be the cheapest. If they have a good experience in the beginning, they're hooked for life (like me).