shaft play?
They should move a little bit (very little) but the blades should not touch the housing (scrape). You could also check the exhaust or compressor sides for oil. I bought a turbo a while back and had no shaft play. When i took the exhaust housing off i noticed a bunch of burnt oil in there. Not good.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CalGSR99 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They should move a little bit (very little) but the blades should not touch the housing (scrape). You could also check the exhaust or compressor sides for oil. I bought a turbo a while back and had no shaft play. When i took the exhaust housing off i noticed a bunch of burnt oil in there. Not good. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i bought a used turbo too and the wheels on the comp or turbine side takes me a little effort to make it spin. is it suppose to spin freely
i bought a used turbo too and the wheels on the comp or turbine side takes me a little effort to make it spin. is it suppose to spin freely
Screw you guys, I'm... going... home.

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,950
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From: lovely Raleigh, NC
The maximum shaft play tolerance limit (both axial and radial) is usually about .005" - .010", or about 1 or 2 sheets of paper thick. Be very wary when people say "little to no shaft play" because they are usually either clueless or full of ****.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RockinSOHC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if it hits the sides, turbo is no good.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is correct! Basically a big paper weight now
that is correct! Basically a big paper weight now
Before writing it off, you might want to have a professional take a look at it. It's very hard to describe over the internet what is and isn't good. Is there anywhere local to you that you could take the turbocharger to have someone look it over? A diesel shop or something?
getting my turbo rebuilt cost almost as much as getting a new one. I had to replace everything on my turbo, turbine wheels, bearings, bearing housing everything. Rebuilt kit for my turbo would've cost $380 and up, where I can just buy brand new one for extra cost and don't have to wait for the turbo to get back
If your interested, I have a brand new garrett T3/T04B turbo thats good for 400-450 hp. Its a H-3 Trim and AR. .48. Spools fast. Asking $480 Brand New or Pick up. Got 2 turbos left. Let me know if your intersested.
If its not been touching the casing, buy a rebuild kit and do it your self. You get the bearings seal etc and its easy to do. If you are carfull and mark the posistion of every thing you might get away with not having to rebalance it. would cost $60-80 depending on which rebuild kit you got and a day of your own time to take the turbo off rebuild it and put it back together. You even get the bolts to replace the snaped one. (if you can get it out)
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