Before the first snow fell a couple of weeks ago, we had the accord out and we noticed the smell of oil burning. On the way to take the car back home with all of the vitals looking really good(temp, oil & fuel pressure) the car just stalled at a stop light. I pop the hood and there is oil coming from the valve cover breather hole. I knew this wasnt good, So I finally got the chance to rip it apart today and here is what i found. It doesnt look sooo good.







Now the question is, where do i start rebuilding?... im completely lost right now.

The Sleeves are Darton Sleeve and Wiesco Pistons...

 

looks like you had a ton of piston slap, was the motor loud? i say rebore, new pistons, new rings, and make sure your ring gap is perfect.

 

thats kind odd to have scuffing on the sides of the pistons like that.. is it on both sides of the piston, just that one piston? what do the skirts look like.

 

I wonder what caused that??? looks like metal to metal contact.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats kind odd to have scuffing on the sides of the pistons like that.. is it on both sides of the piston, just that one piston? what do the skirts look like.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cylinder out of round?

 

Piston slap would be on the intake and exhaust sides of the piston, aka no on the sides with the wrist pins. There is play side to side, there always is. Even when building a fresh motor there is some tiny amount of play, but the motion of the piston is up and down, back and forth exhaust to intake. The crank swings front to back, not side to side. I would think that looks more like detonation caused it combined with bad oiling. That's the only way I could see the side of the piston being bashed up against the side of the wall.

 

Looks like a ERL sleeved block....

Are the wrist pins bent?
Rod bent?
Crank FUBAR?

These are the only ways that you should be able to get side contact like that.

 

thats intense.

 

The rods and crank look fine. The damage you see is on the #2 cylinder. There is damage like this on 3 & 4 also but not as bad. The block is a superdeck 2 done by ERL. I have a call out to them to see what could of happened.

 

What power levels and rods was used?

 

.7bar with crower steel billet rods....


I just got off the phone with a tech at erl, and he is pretty sure that the ring gap i used caused the problem. He said the rings butted creating alot of heat which could of put the cylinder out of round causing the damage to the sleeve and piston.

 

what were your ring gaps??

 

i set them up for the street/strip vs. the turbo app on thier chart. I dont have that handy to know exactly what they were set at.

 

were the thrust bearings in the motor?

 

Damn! Sorry man, that sucks

 

yes, and they were still in there when i pulled it apart yesterday

 

are u running an air filter? if you were running one it eliminates that but it possible there may have been some extreme heat and the piston was in the first stage of meltdown

 

I was running a K&N cone filter...

 

that really sucks, build the puppy up and start boosting again

 

Did you have any coolant issues with the car? how did the head gasket look on that cylinder? That looks to be signs of coolant in the chamber.

 

looks like u had a blockguard in there..

 

The coolant on the cylinder wall is from when i pulled the head... leaked into the cylinder.

Also, the block is a ERL Superdeck 2 setup, They closed the deck and sleeved it. It looks similar to a block guard...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaracer93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The coolant on the cylinder wall is from when i pulled the head... leaked into the cylinder.
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This is just obvious, im stating that the way the piston looks it might have been a problem of coolant entering the chamber. Either through a leaky headgasket or maybe a cracked head.