92 integra about to run hondata for boost, should I get saturated or peak and hold.
I know the difference between them just not sure which to use, I want it doen properly, not Ghetto style

 

what size injectors are yu geting. generally with hondata people run peak and hold.

Landon

 

I would go with peak and hold.

 

ok, thanks guys

 

I went with saturated 550cc's

There a little more expensive than P&H, but you won't need a resistor box to run them so in the end they cost about the same. To be honest when it comes to cars, theres nothing I hate more than electrical wiring

 

Since RC makes 550cc and above in saturated now, why would anyone get peak and hold injectors? Saturated injectors make for a simpler and cleaner install.

 

I would also agree that I hate electrical wiring, but if you plan to make good power you will need to run peak and hold cause the rc's only go up to 750's. Peak and hold are cheaper and a you can get a resistor box for about 15-20 and there are a bunch of articles here on ht on how to hook them up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FOrSfEd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would also agree that I hate electrical wiring, but if you plan to make good power you will need to run peak and hold cause the rc's only go up to 750's. Peak and hold are cheaper and a you can get a resistor box for about 15-20 and there are a bunch of articles here on ht on how to hook them up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

like stated, if you need bigger than 750's then your stuck. wirng a resistor box is really easy, if you can do a stereo then youcan do a resistor box.

Landon

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by macrosshn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Since RC makes 550cc and above in saturated now, why would anyone get peak and hold injectors? Saturated injectors make for a simpler and cleaner install. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I wish I had a picture of my install. I'm running a resistor box and it is a flawless install. If you take the time to do it right, it won't be messy. I removed my harness, unwound the loom, soldered in connectors [in case I ever want to go back to saturated, all I have to do is remove the in line resistor box], then put the loom back over it. It looks like it belongs there now.

 

Are you running this on your stock 92 motor or is this a different motor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by macrosshn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Since RC makes 550cc and above in saturated now, why would anyone get peak and hold injectors? Saturated injectors make for a simpler and cleaner install. </TD></TR></TABLE>

To properly answer this you have to understand what a peak and hold injector is and how it works. Skipping that, the advantage of a P&H injector is that it will open quicker. This allows a larger injector to be used while keeping a stoich idle. In other words if your 240cc injector saturated takes 1.2ms to open and idle plusewidth is about 2.4ms then you upgrade to 550cc saturated, you can imagine how it's going to be hard to get a good idle when the minimum time for a consistant opening is still 1.2ms or worse. On the other hand P&H injectors because they allow more current through to open will open quicker. 0.8-0.9ms is common.

This is why people would go with P&H injectors. However, a resistor box effectively makes a P&H into a saturated because it limits the current that the injector can draw while opening so the injector won't overheat and fry. Saturated injectors are often the same as P&H but have a resistor built into them anyway.

-Michael

 

I'm glad I didn't have to ask the difference between the two and you chimed in to explain the differences, thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wish I had a picture of my install. I'm running a resistor box and it is a flawless install. If you take the time to do it right, it won't be messy. I removed my harness, unwound the loom, soldered in connectors [in case I ever want to go back to saturated, all I have to do is remove the in line resistor box], then put the loom back over it. It looks like it belongs there now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly, Mine looks the same.
I paid $1.50 for my resistor pack, spent about 30 min cleaning it up and painting it nicely, found a good location and used solder,heat shrink and the factory wire looms for a factory looking install.

 

Some of you are arguing about the benefits of P&H injectors because it's what you have done. Given a frest start and a choice between the two, I think the choice would be obvious: saturated.

Why mess with unecessary wiring if there is a simpler way.

And like Hackish stated, the benefits of P&H injectors are offset by the resitor box. Since the poster wanted something 'proper' and not 'ghetto,' the simple answer is to get saturated injectors.

And I'm not hating on Dax or anyone.

 

P&H is not ghetto, if it's done properly. If you want to make big power, you have to go with P&H eventually.

I know you're not hatin'...

 

thanks you very much, thats the exact answer I wanted

i dont want big big power I just want 300 whp, so 550cc saturated should do,