d series motors are imfamous for headgasket issues, and I may be facing one...
it seems the head can lift under boost....


I was wondering if drill and tapping the block for larger studs would help, since there would be a larger mechanical advantage, more friction in the threads, and more meat to the stud to hold the head down?

any thoughts?

 

ive thought about running ls head studs before, cmon, someone answer this guys question

 

I'm sure it would help. I run 1/2" arp stud on my Bseries. (long story)

Do you run studs now or the stock bolts? I'm assuming you have studs now but i figured i'd check.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 80884 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm sure it would help. I run 1/2" arp stud on my Bseries. (long story)

Do you run studs now or the stock bolts? I'm assuming you have studs now but i figured i'd check.</TD></TR></TABLE>

arp head studs with OEM headgasket


look like the studs in my car loosened up a bit from the spec torque....
i tightened them up, but one wasn't tighten (aka threadsw maybe being pulled out....)


so i might do a timesert, but wondered if just having thicker studs would help alot

 

there are a few b-series doing that. might not be a bad idea for the ds, too. especially with everyone overtorquing the arps for more clamp (and damaging threads).

if you go to a standard thread arp has lots of options for lengths.

 

I can't imagine this helping unless you are boosting over 40 lbs. Standard ARP's should be fine.

 

His head is lifting with the current ARP studs. My guess would be the block is what is letting go (the threads) and not the studs. Thats why my engine has the 1/2" studs because the stock threads got messed up, not because i needed to be able to hold more boost. Just my thoughts.

 

check all the thread in the block. then fix the bad ones.

thats one of the bad things about aluminum blocks...

 

is your block sleeved?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jared &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is your block sleeved?</TD></TR></TABLE>

stock sleeves...

 

Get another block. If there is no special work done to your current block then it's not really worth trying to fix it, easier to just get another block.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 80884 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get another block. If there is no special work done to your current block then it's not really worth trying to fix it, easier to just get another block.</TD></TR></TABLE>

it seems to be it would be easier to use the timserts, than getting a spare block, getting it bored and honed and taking every single thing apart

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igo4bmx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

stock sleeves...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
my personal theory is that the majority of sohc headgasket problems stem from swaying stock sleeves.

 

others see the light... fantastic

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jared &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
my personal theory is that the majority of sohc headgasket problems stem from swaying stock sleeves.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree, I had the head lifting problems until Benson leaved my block.....

I tried everything under the sun to get the stock sleeves to work.
Less timing, more timing, different torque specs, different head gaskets, sealer, no sealer, etc..........

One thing that does help or at least i got a couple more lbs of boost out of her before it blew was pre tightening the head studs to 15lbs before putting the head on and then torqueing them to in the following sequence. 20, 40, 65, 70lbs

They must move or expand under boost causing the head gasket to blow.

platinum.