After the car gets warmed up it idles really rough from like 650-850 ive sprayed carb cleaner around to see if there is vaccuum leak and theres not. Im really stumped and getting super mad , lol. Its a boosted b16, and also this only happens once the car gets warmed up.

 

Is your idle air controller out of wack?
if so check your coolant system for air pockets.
check your throttle body and see if the idle screw
on the bottom is loosened up. try spraying at the bottom
of the TB also.

 

Has it just started doing this or always done it? Is the car tuned?

 

hmm my car seems to have the same problem

 

idle air voltages are fine, and have replaced it as well. Not tuned, tried 2 ECU's, and two different basemaps, even put a VAFC to mess with, first time this boost build has been started.

 

if i remove the hose from intake manifold to PCV valve idle jumps up to 1200 but is nice, and if i place my finger there to like hold it steady its fine too??? this has had me stumped for 2 weeks now, DAMN

 

HELP PLEASE

 

Stock injectors/MAP?

 

had rc 750's in and replaced with some 440's mad absolutely no difference, and i am running stock map and have also ran gm 3 bar no difference.

 

ttt

 

try bleeding off your coolant system first then try mechanical issues.
then look at adjusting your tb to idle normaly when its warmed up.
then once warmed up adjust your iac duty cycles so that it doesnt
revv way up at idle. but its hard to say with this imformation.
do you have larger cams? is this a fresh build, if not have you done a leak down test lately. how are you changing the maps for the different injectors?
a change in injector or map sensor will give you more fuel than stock.

 

coolant system bled, idle doesnt change when i play with screw. it doesnt rev up at idle like ur sayin to adjust my iac. no larger cams and not a fresh build, was running perfect until i boosted. I am running a xenocron basemap, and have my wideband hooked up to play with my FPR but even a stock ecu makes no difference.

 

unhook your iac and their are two places to adjust on a b series.
the idle screw underneath the tb where the tb hooks up .
there is also an idle air bleed screw that is more for fine tuning
than the other one. since youve ran the motor for a while try
doing a leakdown test first or at least a compression test just to
make sure your not wasting your time and damaging your motor further.
ive cracked a sleeve before and spent 3 hours trying to figure out why
my idle was off until I pulled the head(not saying thats what happened to u)
just better safe than sorry.

 

Ill try that this week. Anyone else with some input?

 

didntdo nothing. Now i even took out the VAFC and put a stock ecu in again, and it doesnt even idle and hard to start.