Junaid K

I have just about sorted all the research before I start with my build, bar these two issues:

-Eagle H-beam vs Manley H-Beam. I can get them both at pretty much the same price. I've been told that the Manley rods are superior, especially because I'm starting at close to 600whp, & will look for more later, with my sleeved 84mm GSR block. Manley over Eagle then?

BTW I am aware that Eagle manufactures Manley, but I have read on the site that the Manley's outperform the Eagles.

-Walbro 400lph. I was going to use a twin side by side intank 255lph setup, but I dont have the hanger. I was told to rather sell the two 255's & go for the single 400. Shall I?

Ls92

I was told the same thing on the rods,I chose the Manley. Im going to be in the same hp range as you are.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

The eagle h beams and manley h beams are basically the same thing. they will both get you to around 650-700hp. after that its highly adviseable to go with a turbo tuff i beam manley or pauter rods

Depending on your injectors your going to run will determine what pump or pump combo to run. For 650 i would run a walbro intank and a bosch 044 inline but people have hit those numbers on single intank 255hp i just personally wouldnt push it that hard fuel system failure = engine failure

Junaid K

Manley i-beams would be first prize, but they're out of my budget. My car will see high boost on race fuel occasionally, but for the most part will probably run 1bar on pump. I hope it holds together with the manley h-beams..

I have 880cc precisions. I had planned twin intank walbros initially and then spoke to a friend who is a tuner. He did suggest the walbro intank and the 044 just before the fuel filter, but did warn that its damn noisy. So he suggested the 400lph instead. What's the best approach amongst these three. I don't have the hanger for the twin intanks though.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

it will hold together just fine with the eagles or the manleys. no difference IMO untill you step up to turbotuff then manleys all the way

The bosch wont be that loud. i see peopel whine all the time on here about how their intank walbro is loud, i cant even hear mine so IDk what one to another person considers loud, now a Aeromotive a1000, thats a noisy *** pump LOL

Junaid K

Lol,your car is probably a screamer. Who could hear anything over that music. I hardly bother with my stereo. I prefer listening to the engine and that dumpvalve that always turns heads.

As a happy medium, I'm considering manley h-beams with upgraded 625 arp's. I hope it will get me to 750whp. That's 880 at the fly. Plenty to take out 1000hp 2j's.

Fueling then, single intank 255lph walbro and inline bosch 044 in the engine bay, before the filter.

How does that sound?

Take into consideration that I still need to get upgraded sideshafts and a bigger turbo before I hit that, so that's going to be a while away.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Well if your gunning to that whp and to take out 1000whp 2jz's why are you skimping out on your rods? Not to mention that your going to need to beef up the transmission considerable to take out anything other than gearsets when you get that high in the HP range, Just saying..... It can get expensive really quick

Junaid K

I agree 100%. I'm trying to do what I can for now, to prevent having to open the motor later. Sideshafts, transmission, turbo, etc, I can change without having to open the motor or do any serious reworking. I won't go to that level until I feel everything is ready to handle that power.

The problem, and I'm sure you realise this, is that building a car & importing parts is far more expensive than building a car in the US where allot of the parts are manufactured & are consequently far cheaper. Take the Manley I-beams as a perfect example, I have to pay $200 more to get them here, & thats a good price from a good friend who imports parts. Now take that accross a vast array of parts that you will need for a solid build & it gets VERY expensive. $200 on its own does not sound like much, at an exchange rate of R8.00: $1.00, thats 1600 rands, but trust me, R8.00 buys far less than than $1.00 would.

I'm going to try & squeeze a better price on the I-beams, but will I still need the upgraded ARP 625's?

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

You could have someone in the states buy them and ship them to you, put a value of less then 10 dollars and no insurance and sent as a gift through the post office and you wont have to pay the taxes one them

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Yeah, but customs will figure that out when the open the package for fitment. PLUS if the value of the product doesn't get there because of no insurance of over 6000 miles away, the friend in the US AND our friend here in S.A. both get screwed.

Bottom line, you're splitting hairs at this point. the H-beam Eagles will work fine for a 600whp. I've been on the same set for over 8 years with WAY more abusive conduct than just a drag strip.. you're fine...

Junaid K

I would not be able to sleep at nights, until it was safely in my hands, lol. The last time I brought a parcel in, KYB AGX shocks, customs checked & removed the band holding the shock in its compressed position. When I picked up, the bottom of the shock was protruding through a hole at one end of the box. Bottom line is that there's very little that they don't check.

Right you are. I won't take the chance of posting without insurance, as tempting as the prospect may seem.

Ok, but Manley H-Beams instead perhaps? On one site they claim that the H-beam Manley is better than Eagles. Out-powers the Eagles as they put it. Perhaps not entirely true, but surely there's some substance to that claim?






If I do the single in tank 255lph & the 044 before the filter, in the engine bay, is there anything else I will need for the setup. Somebody mentioned something about a surge tank?


I've made a final decision, really this time, to not go beyond 650/700whp. It seems that once I get to this level, things seem to get ALLOT more expensive.

Junaid K

Another thing. It seems my 880cc Precision injectors won't support 600/650whp.

Will 1000cc MSD Delphi Injectors work.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Well if one website said so, it must be true right? C'mon, man. There are people here giving you experienced opinions not just some website testimonial... Give me a break here. Look, if you want to try and justify it to get Manleys, then go ahead, they are a great product. But don't do that simply because some retail site said so.

Again, you are WAYY overthinking this using a surge tank and such. Use a larger Walboro single 400lph, a Deutchwerks larger unit be be done. Especially if its a street car.

700whp just doesn't get usable at all on any street at that level. You basically need to be converting to full race mode and not worry about the street so much. Going from 400-600 is on thing. Getting that last 100whp gets very expensive and reliability starts to go out the window. Now you must rethink suspension, tires, bushings, etc. Your budget becomes empty quickly.

Stay 600whp and don't look back. Just because some R33 has 700whp, doesn't mean you need it to do the same things.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

You will be hypnotized to get ID1000 or ID2000 (ID=Injector Dynamics) on this forum.

Junaid K

Lol, again I agree completely. Don't for a second think I would take the advice off a random site over that of obvioulsly extremely experienced forum members. Only because I'm getting the Manley H-beams at almost exactly the same price, am I taking them.

You are also right about the power goal. I'm going for 600whp, which I agree is more realistic.

Considering the 600whp goal, will the 880cc Precisions I have get me there. I don't want to buy another set unless its neccessary.

So, final decision:
-Manley H-beams.
-Single Walbro 440lph, no secondary pump?
-880cc Precision Injectors.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

With a higher static fuel pressure you can get 600whp out of 880's.. Probably going to need a static pressre of about 60 psi, just be sure the pumps can handle 60psi plus how ever much boost you plan on running with a 1:1 regulator without drastically losing fuel flow. Im not familiar with the new walbro so i cant say if it will handle the higher pressures but im sure Mac will chime in

Junaid K

Just occured to me, I'm running a standalone management called Dicktator. What will I need, low or high imp.

http://www.dicktator.co.za/standardecu.html

I have an AEM rail & regulator.

I see very little point in trying to max out a components capability, so I'm selling the Precision 880's. Instead I'm considering 1200cc Precisions or RC's. Not sure low or high imp. Which will be better?
Question is though, for 600whp, are the 1200cc's adequate with race fuel to make that power, or do I get 1600cc.

Junaid K

I've been talking to a couple local guys and all come back with the same answer regarding the 1200 or even 1000cc injectors. They say, & this isn't something new to me, that the car will struggle with idling & driveability etc, low down, & even worse when i'm running low boost, with any of the local managements I plan on using.

So I'm considering getting an AEM EMS Series2, but I know less than squat about this system, & its unlikely that I will find a tuner locally who will know much more.

The way I look at it is that, taking into account the cost & installation of the Dicktator management I mentioned before, along with the cost of buying an electronic boost controller like the Turbosmart e-boost 2 controller, I end up paying a fraction more for the AEM that will do the Dicktator & e-boost's job, & then some. The Dicktator needs a separate harness as its a universal system & you pay extra for installation.

Am I wrong here?



Can I run low imp injectors with this system? If I did get high imp, would the 1000cc's be enough to get 600whp?

Will the boost control allow for changing boost through the gears & on the fly?

Another thing I'm unsure about is that my car is a 99 Civic 4-door sedan that originally had a b16a Vtec motor. If I did go with the AEM, which do I use as a plug & play, considering the replacement engine
is a b18C GSR sub, & a b16a Vtec head?
How about the universal system instead. What will I loose here in terms of features though, & which sort of harness do I buy with it? Isn't the universal system also a bit cheaper?



I don't know enough about this system to ask the right questions, so all help will be appreciated.

kbouchard1092

I would advise not to get this dicktator management....Get Hondata S300 , or the Aem unit. Any tuner should be familiar with these softwares and if there not i wouldnt go to them at all. Boost by gear will allow you to change boost on the fly...but only from youre high/low boost maps if you hook up a switch to a output with the software. But if you have a laptop you can change it on the fly.

I would get high impedance, low impedance will require you to get a resistor box wired in. ID1000 will be fine for 600whp and will idle and have stock driveablitly after the tune.