<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What? Why? There's way more viscosity modifiers in that oil.</TD></TR></TABLE>

because most xw30 oil will be energy concerving and won't have high hths and that matters at high temperatures where temperature increase lowers vicsosity of your oil.. where 5w30 wil be more like 5w20.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

because most xw30 oil will be energy concerving and won't have high hths and that matters at high temperatures where temperature increase lowers vicsosity of your oil.. where 5w30 wil be more like 5w20.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Here is a quote from a real good oil tech article.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Multi viscosity oils are one of the great improvements in oils, but they should be chosen wisely. Always use a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter. In the winter base your decision on the lowest temperature you will encounter, in the summer, the highest temperature you expect. The polymers can shear and burn forming deposits that can cause ring sticking and other problems. 10W-40 and 5W-30 require a lot of polymers(synthetics excluded) to achieve that range. This has caused problems in diesel engines, but fewer polymers are better for all engines. The wide viscosity range oils, in general, are more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown due to the high polymer content. It is the oil that lubricates, not the additives. Oils that can do their job with the fewest additives are the best. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You can find the article here. http://www.prostreetonline.com...id=18

 

sure, choose something with narrowest span, but thats not the only thing you should consider, you can't get everything all in one and gotta choose whats more important. and right now, my best option is to use 5w40 because of cold weather. i went with shell because its not energy concerving, has high HTHS so it will be more stable at higher temps and its thin enough at startup and its best priced.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sure, choose something with narrowest span, but thats not the only thing you should consider, you can't get everything all in one and gotta choose whats more important. and right now, my best option is to use 5w40 because of cold weather</TD></TR></TABLE>

In the cold weather the 5w30 would be a better option then because of the narrower span. I use 10w-30, here in FL cold is not an issue.

 

I run Pennzoil 10W-40 when its cool and 20W-50 in the heat. I never had a problem and never burn a drop. I do change it alot, like every few hundred miles. I've been told by long time engine builders and machinist that it's not what kind of oil you use, it's how often you change it and always use a good quality filter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AlphaMike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I run Pennzoil 10W-40 when its cool and 20W-50 in the heat. I never had a problem and never burn a drop. I do change it alot, like every few hundred miles. I've been told by long time engine builders and machinist that it's not what kind of oil you use, it's how often you change it and always use a good quality filter. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not knocking it but, I don't run pennzoil simply because the engines that I have torn down that ran w/ pennzoil always seem to have a gummy/yellowish tint. I have never ran it so, I can't say wether I think it is good or bad personally. I am also going to be switching to a 10w-30 (winter) and a 20w-50 for the summer months. Right now I run Mobil 1 5w-30 (syn) Changed every 2500-3000. Of course, Always OEM Honda filters

Phil

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaguyef &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm not knocking it but, I don't run pennzoil simply because the engines that I have torn down that ran w/ pennzoil always seem to have a gummy/yellowish tint. I have never ran it so, I can't say wether I think it is good or bad personally. I am also going to be switching to a 10w-30 (winter) and a 20w-50 for the summer months. Right now I run Mobil 1 5w-30 (syn) Changed every 2500-3000. Of course, Always OEM Honda filters

Phil</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've heard about that before, but I've ran Pennzoil in my motor before and never noticed a yellowish tint when I've had the motor apart.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaguyef &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm not knocking it but, I don't run pennzoil simply because the engines that I have torn down that ran w/ pennzoil always seem to have a gummy/yellowish tint. I have never ran it so, I can't say wether I think it is good or bad personally. I am also going to be switching to a 10w-30 (winter) and a 20w-50 for the summer months. Right now I run Mobil 1 5w-30 (syn) Changed every 2500-3000. Of course, Always OEM Honda filters

Phil</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've heard that before as well, but I've never come across it. I've seen a few motors taken apart that have run Pennzoil that didn't have that yellowish tint on it. I run regular Pennzoil for the simple fact that it's cheap and it wouldn't be to cost effective to run Synthetic considering how often I change it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AlphaMike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I've heard that before as well, but I've never come across it. I've seen a few motors taken apart that have run Pennzoil that didn't have that yellowish tint on it. I run regular Pennzoil for the simple fact that it's cheap and it wouldn't be to cost effective to run Synthetic considering how often I change it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Understandable

 

From my research, I have found that the biggest reason to run synthetic oil on a turbo car is because synthetic is less likely to coke than a non-synthetic oil.

 

When my car was turbo i ran castrol 10w40 and i was going on a long long trip i would use a thicker oil but always reg. castrol, never had any issues with oil. Now i run castrol 5w30 but like before i change every 2k on the dot. Personaly i dont think synthetic is any better or any worse it just costs more. Just make sure you run the right weight and dont go beyond 2.5k or 3k depending on your driveing and engine setup

 

It's amazing to me to see the broad perspective of information and opinions given in this thread. There are some commonalities, but everyone seems to have their own thoughts about this.

Anyone have any sort of scientific studies are something like that that they can reference as a premis for their thinking?

I run Mobil 1 Synthetic, and I have run it up to 6k miles (my drain leaks enough that I get at least one full fresh quart during that period). I'll be honest, I'm not even sure why I use the oil that I do other than I'm probably just suceptible to their marketing.

 

i was told by someone don't kbnow how true it is but he said synthtic will just seep through all your seals in your engine. i have to put oil in my car now but don't plan on driving it during the winter. just running it and maybe bringin it to the dyno by trailor. anyone ever heard about that with the synthetic though?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FOrSfEd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use to use synthetic mobile 1 and like mentioned above burned alot and for the money per quart it got to be a lil costly, so now I run Castrol Synthetic Blend it's kinda half and half and is about 50% cheaper than the sythetic oils and has been working for me since.</TD></TR></TABLE>


mobil 1 10w30 synthetic here...

 

i run bud light.. cheaper stuff like red dog makes me backfire out my tailpipe

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Zakar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i run bud light.. cheaper stuff like red dog makes me backfire out my tailpipe</TD></TR></TABLE>

Natty Ice really gets my tailpipe backfiring.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ibiza &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's amazing to me to see the broad perspective of information and opinions given in this thread. There are some commonalities, but everyone seems to have their own thoughts about this.

Anyone have any sort of scientific studies are something like that that they can reference as a premis for their thinking?</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://home.flash.net/~lorint/lorin/turbo.htm
Look under, "I'll pass on the Coke."

I think Corky Bell also said to use synthetic oil for this reason.

 

Mobil1 10w30 winter 15w50 summer and have't had any problems and change it every 2500

 

so which oil should i go with 10w40 or 10w30?

 

castrol gtx 20-50 =

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oxSLEEPERxo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so which oil should i go with 10w40 or 10w30? </TD></TR></TABLE>

10w-30 it's already been stated here.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

In the cold weather the 5w30 would be a better option then because of the narrower span. I use 10w-30, here in FL cold is not an issue.</TD></TR></TABLE>

oils today are advanced enough, if anything, narrow span may apply to conventional oils before sythetic. whats important is oil thick enough so it keeps oil pressure and doen's break down or burn. i noticed lower oil pressure with 5w30 and didn't run it for too long. you get more protection at high oil temperatures with 40 weight over 30. 5w30/10w30 are energy concerving, thats reason enogh for me not to run it. at some temperature poing 10w40 will be more like 5w30 and 10w30 will be more like 0w20 or something along that way.

if narrow span was all thats important, then why not run straight weight?? because of changing temperatures. thats why we run multigrade oils and choose the right specs to provide protection at all temperatures.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

oils today are advanced enough, if anything, narrow span may apply to conventional oils before sythetic. whats important is oil thick enough so it keeps oil pressure and doen's break down or burn. i noticed lower oil pressure with 5w30 and didn't run it for too long. you get more protection at high oil temperatures with 40 weight over 30. 5w30/10w30 are energy concerving, thats reason enogh for me not to run it. at some temperature poing 10w40 will be more like 5w30 and 10w30 will be more like 0w20 or something along that way.

if narrow span was all thats important, then why not run straight weight?? because of changing temperatures. thats why we run multigrade oils and choose the right specs to provide protection at all temperatures.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your Honda was designed to run with a thin 5w-30 oil, you should not be having to use thicker oil to raise the pressure. We run multigrade oils because of temperture differences just like you said. If you go back and read my previous post the idea is to use a multigrade oil with the narrowest span that your climate will permit. Obviously straight weight oil will be shitty for cold start ups.

Go ahead and use all the additives you want, it's your engine. Just remember that the oil is what lubricates, not the additives.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

because most xw30 oil will be energy concerving and won't have high hths and that matters at high temperatures where temperature increase lowers vicsosity of your oil.. where 5w30 wil be more like 5w20.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what he said