regular v.s. synthetic
i did a couple searches and couldn't find what i was looking for.
i wondering what kind of oil i should run in my car. by this i mean regular or synthetic?
its 2000 integra gsr, 40k, stock motor w/ drag gen 3 turbo kit. i have been running regular oil but someone said i should run synthetic on a turbo vtec. everytime i ask someone they give me thier opinion. but which is better considering my milage is still low?
i wondering what kind of oil i should run in my car. by this i mean regular or synthetic?
its 2000 integra gsr, 40k, stock motor w/ drag gen 3 turbo kit. i have been running regular oil but someone said i should run synthetic on a turbo vtec. everytime i ask someone they give me thier opinion. but which is better considering my milage is still low?
i run castrol gtx. I tried running mobil 1 and I was burning more oil and smoking more, I had a little bit of blow by. I have heard people say that synthetic can go through the seals easier, not sure how true that is.
I use to use synthetic mobile 1 and like mentioned above burned alot and for the money per quart it got to be a lil costly, so now I run Castrol Synthetic Blend it's kinda half and half and is about 50% cheaper than the sythetic oils and has been working for me since.
befor my car came off the road for the winter i ran mobil 1 and my car did smoke more then before, so maybe that explains that, i'm just trying to figure what to run when i got to start it back up with the new turbo.
Synthetic shouldn't blow by more unless you happen to use a different weight. I use full synth 15W50. It's a little heavy but the turbo seems to like it. Before that I used 5W30 and burned 1/2 a quart a week. (5W30 was the stock recommended weight) I think the problem with synth is that you can get it in some really light weights, but if you read the Castrol Syntech lables, they recommend 15W50 for any turbo application.
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When I first got my kit from F-Max they recommended 20w50 and (changed oil every 2 weeks my choice). I ran that for a long time.Now I'm running 5w30 non, just to break in the motor. After that prolly going to royal purple, and something in the 15w30 range.
I use Mobil 1 10W30 and thought about changing it to castrol Syn. Main reason that I use Syn oil is because I had it when my last oil pump broke on me and nothing happened to the engine. So I am sticking with it. Cost is high but it's not as high as motor failure.
Mobil 1 does seem to make my car smoke a bit also, I belive i burn a quart in every 2 weeks or so. My oil catch can gets full in one week so that soak up some oil there.
Now I just changed the oil with 15W50 so lets see how it handles it.
Mobil 1 does seem to make my car smoke a bit also, I belive i burn a quart in every 2 weeks or so. My oil catch can gets full in one week so that soak up some oil there.
Now I just changed the oil with 15W50 so lets see how it handles it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmhonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i use mobil 1 every 1k to 1.5k 10w30 in my ls and dont burn any yet it has 158k stock block with a sc61.</TD></TR></TABLE>
jesus, is your oil still yellow when you take it out? haha.
jesus, is your oil still yellow when you take it out? haha.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmhonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i use mobil 1 every 1k to 1.5k 10w30 in my ls and dont burn any yet it has 158k stock block with a sc61.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am doing the same about 1.5k the oil gets changed. My car will actually tell you when the oil needs to be changed.
Around 1.5k when i start the car in the mornings it would smoke a little so it's like the car itself is sending an SOS "Please change my oil biatch"
I am doing the same about 1.5k the oil gets changed. My car will actually tell you when the oil needs to be changed.
Around 1.5k when i start the car in the mornings it would smoke a little so it's like the car itself is sending an SOS "Please change my oil biatch"
does your car smoke b/c of the blow-by burning? why would new oil or old oil smoke any differently? im using mobil 1 5w30... i dont' get any smoking...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX T-Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I am doing the same about 1.5k the oil gets changed. My car will actually tell you when the oil needs to be changed.
Around 1.5k when i start the car in the mornings it would smoke a little so it's like the car itself is sending an SOS "Please change my oil biatch"
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX T-Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I am doing the same about 1.5k the oil gets changed. My car will actually tell you when the oil needs to be changed.
Around 1.5k when i start the car in the mornings it would smoke a little so it's like the car itself is sending an SOS "Please change my oil biatch"
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i would use synthetic for at least 3500miles even on a turbo car. The only reason to change it should be if it lost it's lubrication qualities which would be well after 5k with synthetic as long as temps are reasonable i would guess.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by highboostb18c1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any ideas on what weight i should use? i have been using 5w30.</TD></TR></TABLE>
10w-30 would be better.
10w-30 would be better.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
10w-30 would be better.</TD></TR></TABLE>
better as in what? there isn't much difference between 5w30 and 10w30, and in many cases 5w30 will match high temp protection of 10w30 in same brand, in some cases it will do better than 10w30.
10w-30 would be better.</TD></TR></TABLE>
better as in what? there isn't much difference between 5w30 and 10w30, and in many cases 5w30 will match high temp protection of 10w30 in same brand, in some cases it will do better than 10w30.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
better as in what? there isn't much difference between 5w30 and 10w30, and in many cases 5w30 will match high temp protection of 10w30 in same brand, in some cases it will do better than 10w30.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Less viscosity modifiers.
better as in what? there isn't much difference between 5w30 and 10w30, and in many cases 5w30 will match high temp protection of 10w30 in same brand, in some cases it will do better than 10w30.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Less viscosity modifiers.
i woudln't recommend anything below xW40 unless its really cold like freezing temperatures and you're not pushing your car that much. stay away from energy concerving oils because they won't offer as much protection. some more information here https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=766629
i used to run 15w40 penzoil during summer time and a little bit during fall, it had hthts of 4.2 or 4.3 which is pretty high for conventional oil. right now i'm running 5w40 because of winter, it works just fine, this one is shell synthetic. this summer or spring i'd like to try 15w50, or 5w50.. not sure about the brand
i used to run 15w40 penzoil during summer time and a little bit during fall, it had hthts of 4.2 or 4.3 which is pretty high for conventional oil. right now i'm running 5w40 because of winter, it works just fine, this one is shell synthetic. this summer or spring i'd like to try 15w50, or 5w50.. not sure about the brand
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i woudln't recommend anything below xW40 unless its really cold like freezing temperatures and you're not pushing your car that much. stay away from energy concerving oils because they won't offer as much protection. some more information here https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=766629
i used to run 15w40 penzoil during summer time and a little bit during fall, it had hthts of 4.2 or 4.3 which is pretty high for conventional oil. right now i'm running 5w40 because of winter, it works just fine, this one is shell synthetic. this summer or spring i'd like to try 15w50, or 5w50.. not sure about the brand</TD></TR></TABLE>
What? Why? There's way more viscosity modifiers in that oil.
i used to run 15w40 penzoil during summer time and a little bit during fall, it had hthts of 4.2 or 4.3 which is pretty high for conventional oil. right now i'm running 5w40 because of winter, it works just fine, this one is shell synthetic. this summer or spring i'd like to try 15w50, or 5w50.. not sure about the brand</TD></TR></TABLE>
What? Why? There's way more viscosity modifiers in that oil.
if you change your oil every 1500 miles your WASTING MONEY.
Synthetic (mobil 1) should exceed the 3k miles set forth by the oil companies. The oil light on a civic EX comes on at 7500mi which is the manufact suggested with dyno oil. Synthetic can EASILY meed/exceed this. In fact there was an independant test with an LS1 engine using mobil 1. It went 12,000 miles before the additives STARTED to break down. They changed the filter and the oil went to 14,000mi. They had oil analysis done every so often.
Synthetic oil is superior to dyno oil. It flows better, its more resistant to sludge/breakdown, etc...its just better. it costs more, but your supposed to run it longer so cost is =
Syn does not have imperfections at a molecular level such as dyno oil. They cannot remove all the sulfur in dyno oil when refined, plus the atomic structure of carbon atoms is more uniform in syn when compared to dyno.
Turbo = thicker than 5w30
anyway, thats my 2cents
Synthetic (mobil 1) should exceed the 3k miles set forth by the oil companies. The oil light on a civic EX comes on at 7500mi which is the manufact suggested with dyno oil. Synthetic can EASILY meed/exceed this. In fact there was an independant test with an LS1 engine using mobil 1. It went 12,000 miles before the additives STARTED to break down. They changed the filter and the oil went to 14,000mi. They had oil analysis done every so often.
Synthetic oil is superior to dyno oil. It flows better, its more resistant to sludge/breakdown, etc...its just better. it costs more, but your supposed to run it longer so cost is =
Syn does not have imperfections at a molecular level such as dyno oil. They cannot remove all the sulfur in dyno oil when refined, plus the atomic structure of carbon atoms is more uniform in syn when compared to dyno.
Turbo = thicker than 5w30
anyway, thats my 2cents


