I installed my arp headstuds the other day and it's time for a re torque. My question is does the engine have to be at a certain temp when I retorque? What I mean is will it throw the torque reading off if the engine is hot or cold.

Thanks.

 

i need to know this too

 

just do it cold!!!!!!!!!!

 

why would you need to retorque?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudebwoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why would you need to retorque?</TD></TR></TABLE>because it says so in the install instructions

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudebwoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why would you need to retorque?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you should retorque the after a few heat cycles to make sure they are still at the right tq value.

 

I never retorque and never had a issue.
is that for the head gasket or for new studs?

 

Thats too much work. Only way I'd retorque is if I had some better cams to throw in there while they are out.

 

I never re-torqed mine either

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudebwoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I never retorque and never had a issue.
is that for the head gasket or for new studs?</TD></TR></TABLE>

alot of people dont. and alot of people never have an issue.

i always double check them after a few heat cycles whether i put a new HG or new studs in.
for the people saying its to hard, i have a sohc, all i have to do is take the valve cover off, not the cam(s)

 

i took my whole head apart to retq once, and they were all fine. wasted my afternoon.

with that said, motor should be cold

 

the new ARP are designed like AEBS, so you really shouldnt have to retorque. older ones, i know you have too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i took my whole head apart to retq once, and they were all fine. wasted my afternoon.

with that said, motor should be cold</TD></TR></TABLE>

A good trick I learned was to zip tie the timing belt to the cam gears and just move the cams out of the way to get to the headstud nuts. Saves you the time of resetting the timing.

But anyway, the two times I have retorqued my studs they were the same. Once with old school ARP's and once with new GE's (just wanted to be safe).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPOOLINmatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the new ARP are designed like AEBS, so you really shouldnt have to retorque. older ones, i know you have too. </TD></TR></TABLE>

What are the design changes and how does it affect having to retorque them?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPOOLINmatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the new ARP are designed like AEBS, so you really shouldnt have to retorque. older ones, i know you have too. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats not correct. ARP hasnt revised their design.

 

yeah i was going off of my friends sleeved k20 block, the arp studs that came wit it had the little point, so either they changed them for the k20 or they forgot that studs they had in the block.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.Death &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I installed my arp headstuds the other day and it's time for a re torque. My question is does the engine have to be at a certain temp when I retorque? What I mean is will it throw the torque reading off if the engine is hot or cold.

Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I retorque mine after a week and one of the bolts of the stud was a bit loose. Glad that I decided to take the time and retorque them. I did mine when it was cold, first thing in the morning. Retorqued them to 72 foot pounds.

 

As long as you are using MLS gaskets, (OEM or Cometic), you should never need to retorque a head stud/bolt. If one came loose, they should all be loose. If only one came loose, you are having other issues and that same stud might come loose again.

 

Why not? It is 1 1/2 hrs. of your time. Do it cold and back the nuts off 1/2 turn, 1 at a time and re-torque. Better safe than sorry. Things do move after heat cycles. 9 times out of 10 they are still in torque, wouldn't you hate to be number 10.

 

bc earl is the man and he said so!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why not? It is 1 1/2 hrs. of your time. Do it cold and back the nuts off 1/2 turn, 1 at a time and re-torque. Better safe than sorry. Things do move after heat cycles. 9 times out of 10 they are still in torque, wouldn't you hate to be number 10.</TD></TR></TABLE>


This is the part nobody does.They just set the torque wrench to xx and try and torque it again.

 

I just don't see steel gaskets compressing after heat cycles. Backing a nut a half turn could cause the head to warp, IMO.