Sonny, Gregg, JT: Thanks for your support.

Mr. Vapor Trail: Hondatas are great. Wish I had invented it. If I had, I still would have included a knock sensor.

Seems like the SafeGuard could be used as a guide when you tune an untried combination, and as a safeguard, in case something goes wrong when you aren't looking.

If you can't afford a Hondata or a standalone, you're going to need some kind of timing controller. Our newest one has boost retard, knock retard, MAP Limiter, TPS trick, etc. (Shameless plug)


This just in over on the MR2 Spyder board:
http://www.spyderchat.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=173429

To save you a click. here's the relevent part:

"I finished putting my turbo back together last night. I had the whole thing appart to fabricate an external wastegate and have the entire thing ceramic coated. So I take it for a quick test run and forget to change my boost controller settings and acidentally boost to 1.03 kg/cm^2 (~14 PSI). No problem, EGT never got any higher than 1380F and the Safeguad saved my bacon, yet again. I adjusted the boost controller settings back to normal .45kg/cm^2 and turned the duty down to 30%. It spools over much faster now and I hit .45kg/cm^2 and never went over it.

This morning I decided to get out on the drive to work and when I was on the freeway passing a Celica in 5th gear, the boost shot up to 1.58kg/cm^2 (22 PSI). OOoops! The engine's ok and the EGT never went any higher than 1400F. Turns out one of the vacuum hoses came off of the external wastegate."

 

I have to disagree about the Phantom-grip. I've heard nothing but good things about them, when professionally installed on sub-300hp cars. They do tend to break above that, but you get what you pay for at $300 a pop.
Did anyone mention JG? I had one of their TBs and it stuck like a **** when it was even slightly cold out.
Also, anything by OBX. what crappy ****.

 

Auto Zone parts
GM products

I didn't know so many people hated pro drive, hmmm

Simple Green, now thats a product that works.

 

i thought missing link check valves were cool? i got one.

yeah, ive had my MSD 6a crap out on me after a few years. thats why i got a digital 6+.

i got a few to add to the list:
-DRAG3 oil return line
-UR, AEM, and any other pulleys

 

as far as ur jg tb goes..try adjusting ur throttle cable...that solved my problems with it....im gonna add aem underdrive pulleys...the biggest waste of money ive ever experienced...well that and altezzas....spent close to 300 only to realise they are ******* gay..

 

crane ingnition.

shitty piece.

 

I second the jacobs ignition, GARBAGE!!!
I disagree on the EBC green brake pads! -What works better?

 

Dave is running high boost..the greddy internal wastegate has a really hard time holding boost past 10psi. A quick fix is to port the hell outa the internal wastegate and install a bigger flapper or weld it shut and get an external wg (tial) fabricated in. Either works.

liam

 

the more I tune, the more I stand by this belief:

If you dont have the money for proper fuel management, then you shouldn't be playing with fires you can't put out.

If a customer must have a J&S, I disconnect it during tuning, and let them sort it out afterwards. It's too sensitive, especially with forged internals which are noisy. Not a knock against your company, you guys are great, but it is a band aid for sloppy tuning and people who cant put things together correctly.

Food for thought - of all the Hondata cars I've tuned, the only one to blow up was the only one running a J&S.

 

Whats the matter with EBC green stuff? I loved those pads. Lots of bite, didn't fade too much on the autox track and where easy on my rotors.
They are no race pads, but its a good product I recomend by my atuox experince.

 

Ive never used EBC before...but never the less...how can you fade your pads on a 60 second you might get to 60mph autoX track? Ah those autoX guys.

Try 20mins on a road race track and then talk to me about brakes.

(bad picture but)



liam

 

what is it?

 

you kidding?
relax there...dont freak out.
its a knock retard device. its a sensitvie microphone that hears knock and then retards timing and other stuff i beleive to eliminate it. but with built motors it can effect performance because they are noisy and it will mistake the other noise(piston slap etc) for knock.

 

Odd, Mine worked PERFECTLY for years. My gas miliage went WAY up (on my LS) and the idle was a lot better. I'd recommend MSD wires 100%. Maybe some of you were expecting wires to be a power mod.


[Modified by Shaft TypeC, 10:12 AM 9/11/2002]

 

oh so you're saying the wastegate port doesnt flow enough bypassed exhaust gases to regulate the boost? i think i get it.

 

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the Spoon Ventuli plate.

 

my msd wires were terrible, when i had them a few years ago and went to get inspected there was so much intereference that the machine couldn't even get an rpm reading. the car even idled more smoothly after throwing stock wires back on. perhaps quality control? i dunno, mine sucked.

 

Ground Control coilovers. One hand adjustable my ****.......

 

yep..you got it. Boost creep baby.

liam

 

With an internal like the one he is running it needs a good 3 inch exhaust and he needs to port where the wastegate flapper opens and closes..... at the same time he would need to install a bigger flapper to match the port... The more boost he runs the bigger it needs to be.

 

Amen to that......

 

ericks racing throttle body on dseries and bseries(type R)

 

Add one to the list:
Mallory FPRs.

And if you don't like MSD, what kind of plug wires are you guys using?

 

have heard good and bad about magnecor, i had some that were fine. many are using stock wires. stock honda wires, very good

 

Anything made by DC. Well, their stuff WORKS... but it doesn't function better than stock.

My girlfriend. Goddamn lazy ***...

H22 swaps into Civics.

Nitto 450 tires.

Yokohama Parada tires.

JR superchargers.