Blown90hatcH

Well this motor has 6k miles on it with 1k of them boosted. I am changing my setup around and when I went to inspect everything last night....I saw this

boosted hybrid

What was your redline on the engine? I have seen another pro drive gear fail, that majorly sucks. Were you dropping oil pressure at all?

alpha

That's teh suck Have you tried calling Pro Drive yet?

1-888-340-4753

earl

assuming everything is in balance, etc, my only suggestion is a Fluid Dampner by one of the manufacturers that make them. Ask Arturbo, I think he sells them.

B18C1CYA

I had a prodrive gear in my pump, well when i took it apart to check the clearences in it well rotating it by hand it would have like a catch in it. It was very strange it would do it somtimes and some times it wouldnt. So i figured if that thing had that catch in it at say 8000 rpm it wouldnt be good so i tosed it. The catch was between the inner gear and the outer gear kinda like were this one broke. I just know that it should just rotate smooth and it didnt and i have heard about people haveing problems with these and them not rotating smoothly, just my $0.02

93LSivic

<--------------Running to pull apart oil pump and checking on his own Pro Drive oil pump gears!

Is the block sleeved? Maybe a line bore is in question here.

b18cx

Just wondering, what crank pully were you running??

Sinitron

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18cx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just wondering, what crank pully were you running??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I'm curious myself....

turbo96wr

stock crank pullies are the best or of course a fluid damp.... is better but about a year ago those pro-drive gears were blowing up i used stock in the day and never had problems so did tony1 on kenny's car back before we went to drysumps.

Evil DOHC

I have had some good experience with the TODA oil pump gear. Haven't seent one fail just yet. Prodrive on the other hand, seen a few fail, luckily it was detected early by the oil pressure drop and the motor wasn't damaged.

EVIL

Blown90hatcH

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What was your redline on the engine? I have seen another pro drive gear fail, that majorly sucks. Were you dropping oil pressure at all?</TD></TR></TABLE>

9100 rev. Oil pressure was constant. I didn't even expect this. I was just inspecting everything before I put it back together.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">assuming everything is in balance, etc, my only suggestion is a Fluid Dampner by one of the manufacturers that make them. Ask Arturbo, I think he sells them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is the block sleeved? Maybe a line bore is in question here.</TD></TR></TABLE> GE sleeves. It was not align bored previous but I had it checked to confirm. I got it align bored this time when I bored the cylinders and again it really didn't need it. I just did it to play it safe.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18cx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What crank pulley are you running?</TD></TR></TABLE> That is where I think the killa is. I have a CM al flywheel, CM iron disc clutch and a CTR N1 crank pulley.

Thanks for all your help stunnas

93LSivic

Hmm. The N1 pulley doesnt have any rubber dampening at all. Even the normal oem pulleys have it. I would invest in the Fluidampr........I did Art is the man to talk to!

TURBO-TEG

I had a similar problem........ take a look....

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=809759

after talkin to alot of people i decided to run an external pump.....should be together in a few weeks.......

Full-Race Geoff

i have two friends who were sponsored by proddrive and still ran stock pumps/gears.

ATS*Mark

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Full-Race Geoff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have two friends who were sponsored by proddrive and still ran stock pumps/gears.</TD></TR></TABLE>

somthing sad about that

Br1t1shguy

everyone thinks billet is so much better.

The whole point of sintered metal is no stress risers. Sure it's brittle, but their consistently durable.

speedworks

i will put my money on the aftermarket crank pulley. i broke three pumps until i switched back to factory dampner. not a problem in over two years.

SOUNDEFFECTS

I'm running a billet alum. oil pump gear that was made by John Brown Racing when I was working there.

Works perfect, makes good oil pressure, nothing wrong with mine. Maybe prodrive had a bad batch or has a flaw

Blown90hatcH

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i will put my money on the aftermarket crank pulley. i broke three pumps until i switched back to factory dampner. not a problem in over two years.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is what I am leaning towards. I went back and made a list of everthing that was different about my setup then the last time I checked the pump. The only changes was that crank pulley.

Full-Race Geoff

a stress riser is *inherent* to that fillet where the part goes from round to flat for the crankshaft.

Even though there are not as many (or as large) residual stresses from the manufacturing process there are still stress risers from the design, which is exactly why it broke where it broke.