Problem with my 2.0 liter engine. Just got it rebuilt
Well, the car drives like crap.
But, the main problem is it is overheating.
Here's my specs for the bottom end.
-Golden Eagle 84.5MM block
-Endyn pistons/Eagle rods
-Cometic head gasket
-ARP head studs
Now, I torqued the ARP head studs to 60 pounds/feet.
My mechanic said it's probably the ARP head studs ... and that they are not torqued enough.
What are your thoughts?
But, the main problem is it is overheating.
Here's my specs for the bottom end.
-Golden Eagle 84.5MM block
-Endyn pistons/Eagle rods
-Cometic head gasket
-ARP head studs
Now, I torqued the ARP head studs to 60 pounds/feet.
My mechanic said it's probably the ARP head studs ... and that they are not torqued enough.
What are your thoughts?
you need to make sure the coolant system is properly bled. If it is, check the water pump, they do fail. Also check the thermostat, it can also go bad.
If you feel it is a head gasket issue do a leakdown test and look for bubbles in the coolant. Generally cometic gaskets should be torqued to 70 ft lbs. Thats a good value.
I dont knwo why your car would feel slow, but its possible cam timing is off? That motor should feel quite strong, not at all slow. cometics gaskets are also possible to install upside down...
If you feel it is a head gasket issue do a leakdown test and look for bubbles in the coolant. Generally cometic gaskets should be torqued to 70 ft lbs. Thats a good value.
I dont knwo why your car would feel slow, but its possible cam timing is off? That motor should feel quite strong, not at all slow. cometics gaskets are also possible to install upside down...
could be something simple as a faulty thermostat. what I did to my thermostat was drill some small holes along the ring and I removed the spring from it. My temps dropped a little. I don't know what could be causing your overheating, hell it could be your radiator isn't large enough.
No, the car didn't feel slow ... not a all.
Just ran crappy. VERY jerky.
Have BRAND NEW water pump.
But, I feel it's the ARP head studs not torqued enough. Gonna torque it down to 70.
Just ran crappy. VERY jerky.
Have BRAND NEW water pump.
But, I feel it's the ARP head studs not torqued enough. Gonna torque it down to 70.
Well, after torquing the head studs to 75 ... there are no more air bubbles in the coolant. So that's good.
But, the overheating issue is still there. Basically, the temp rises to half way when driving and then goes down to normal temps when idle'ing.
I now feel it's the thermostat.
I'll keep you guys updated.
But, the overheating issue is still there. Basically, the temp rises to half way when driving and then goes down to normal temps when idle'ing.
I now feel it's the thermostat.
I'll keep you guys updated.
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Try bleeding the coolant system. To do this, you just squiz the lower coolant hose as the car almost warm up to operating temp, you will see air bubbles come out. Make sure the radiator cap is off.
my car runs at just about halfway all the time. i have to update the cooling the system soon but wheni asked about this before , everyone told me that was normal
running halfway up the on temp gauge is not overheating that's normal. I think the jerking is from something else. possible electrical something in the distributor or ignition system perhaps.
when you increase bore size dramatically, you also increase the motor's need for fuel. It's quite possibly your "jerkiness" is the car running lean, or the timing is retarded (both of which can cause the motor to run hot as well). Are you running Hondata?
Well, the MAIN problem is I'm leaking coolant into the cylinders/oil.
I'm using 0-ring and Cometic head gasket. Both of which are not sealing properly. I'm gonna remove the 0-ring and just use the Cometic head gasket.
And thoughts?
I'm using 0-ring and Cometic head gasket. Both of which are not sealing properly. I'm gonna remove the 0-ring and just use the Cometic head gasket.
And thoughts?
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