Precision 780cc injectors s300 voltage offset
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Precision 780cc injectors s300 voltage compensation
when i called precision all they could tell me was that the voltage offset was 13.6v at .998ms. in smanager i have a table to enter different voltage/ms combinations. what do i do? i posted on the hondata website but as usual, they are no help.
Modified by jew at 10:47 PM 11/7/2007
Modified by jew at 10:47 PM 11/7/2007
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Re: Precision 780cc injectors s300 voltage offset (jew)
bump. hondata told me to figure it out myself......help me honda-tech, you're my only hope!
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every car is different for voltage offsets.. Hondata was right, you have to figure it out for yourself.
someone correct me if I'm wrong, but (typically) you should only have to mess with voltage offsets for fine tuning your idle?
someone correct me if I'm wrong, but (typically) you should only have to mess with voltage offsets for fine tuning your idle?
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Re: (2point2)
thanks for the responses...
i suppose that makes sense, but can anyone tell me the proper way to go about adjusting these settings? i don't know where to start.
my idle is fine...the only problem is that sometimes when i first start the car up while the wideband is warming up it stalls if i take my foot off the gas because hondata thinks the afr is 7.45:1 so closed loop cuts the fuel. once the sensor warms up after 30 seconds or so, it idles fine. btw, i have no narrowband, just a wideband with an additional narrowband simulation output.
i suppose that makes sense, but can anyone tell me the proper way to go about adjusting these settings? i don't know where to start.
my idle is fine...the only problem is that sometimes when i first start the car up while the wideband is warming up it stalls if i take my foot off the gas because hondata thinks the afr is 7.45:1 so closed loop cuts the fuel. once the sensor warms up after 30 seconds or so, it idles fine. btw, i have no narrowband, just a wideband with an additional narrowband simulation output.
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Yeah mine has the same idlle problem but it is set in open loop. Its only when the car is already warm and I cut it off (like going in a gas station) and then quickly cut it back on it will stall if I dont hit the gas and the s300 is see 8 to 1 afr. I have a factory o2 and a innovation wideband.
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just leave the settings alone. there is really no need to change them. i run my car is open loop all the time. i have no problems with idle and i have 1600's idling at 850rpms
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alright. i put in the values i stated above for the whole table and have been running like that. i'll change it back, but i would still like to see an answer to this. i doubt it has anything to do with the stalling, but i can't find any information anywhere about how to correctly determine the voltage compensation so this is gonna bug me till someone speaks up and tells us how to do it.
#12
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Re: (jew)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jew »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alright. i put in the values i stated above for the whole table and have been running like that. i'll change it back, but i would still like to see an answer to this. i doubt it has anything to do with the stalling, but i can't find any information anywhere about how to correctly determine the voltage compensation so this is gonna bug me till someone speaks up and tells us how to do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Short example:
As you can see the overall injector dead time is effected by voltage change. The reason for the Voltage vs Dead Time table is so that you can tune this overall dead time at different battery voltages....
I.E. Monitor your a/f ratio at an idle at x volts, then try putting load on the battery system with all of your accessories etc.
Btw, I doubt this table has anything to do with your tuning issues.
Short example:
As you can see the overall injector dead time is effected by voltage change. The reason for the Voltage vs Dead Time table is so that you can tune this overall dead time at different battery voltages....
I.E. Monitor your a/f ratio at an idle at x volts, then try putting load on the battery system with all of your accessories etc.
Btw, I doubt this table has anything to do with your tuning issues.
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Re: (mtber)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I.E. Monitor your a/f ratio at an idle at x volts, then try putting load on the battery system with all of your accessories etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
in my case my engine likes to dip really low for a split second before it finds the idle. The lights would go slightly dim when this happens. I used my voltage offset to bump the injectors up when the voltage starts to dip - it seem to be the cleanest fix to the issue. Worked like a charm.
Could have easily fixed this by bumping up the idle speed but I'm stubborn like that.
in my case my engine likes to dip really low for a split second before it finds the idle. The lights would go slightly dim when this happens. I used my voltage offset to bump the injectors up when the voltage starts to dip - it seem to be the cleanest fix to the issue. Worked like a charm.
Could have easily fixed this by bumping up the idle speed but I'm stubborn like that.
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if it is dipping before it sets the idle then u need to mess with the IAC Duty Cycle read up on how to properly set your idle. its dipping really low in the RPM which is why your lights are dimming..........................................T aken straight from the help section in the S300 programn::
IAC duty cycle - adjusts the feedback relationship between the current engine speed, target idle speed and idle valve duty cycle. If the idle dips low once the throttle is released, increase the IAC duty cycle. If the idle speed 'hangs', reduce the IAC duty cycle.
IAC duty cycle - adjusts the feedback relationship between the current engine speed, target idle speed and idle valve duty cycle. If the idle dips low once the throttle is released, increase the IAC duty cycle. If the idle speed 'hangs', reduce the IAC duty cycle.
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