Precision 1000's "Round Two" (Update)
10-24-2006, 05:18 PM
#1
BCICAN
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Precision 1000's "Round Two" (Update)
- For those of you who do not know what I am talking about here, please read this thread for background information: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1786822
- For those familar with the previous thread, well I have some interesting updates after today's dyno session.
Before the dyno:
- Replaced the fuel filter with a new filter element. When I opened up the canister (AEM) I noticed some metal shavings. They were really small in size, almost like glitter. There wasn't alot but a definite amount. ---> Refer to hypothesis 1 below.
On The Dyno:
- All is fine an well and we seem to be making some kind of progress. We get to the 8000rpm range and are trying to get the A/F's right before continuing on to ignition. My tuner (http://www.tuned1.com
) Rick adds 9% fuel from 5000-9000 and we make a pull. The changes take from 5000-6500, but from 6500-8000 there was no change at all in the A/F's. Hmmmm looks like we are maxing out the 1000's at 344whp?!?
Steps Taken Today:
- Rick sets up a Fluke 88 to see what the DC's on the injectors are actually reading. At 6000rpm and 12psi (on a T3 60-1 .82...so not a huge turbo) they were at 74%. The Hondata calculated value was 78%...a mere 4% difference. So now it seems as though that 122% I was seeing in the program meant that the injectors were at 100% and basically saying "Yea, go F yourself buddy." This now rules out Hondata as being the culprit for the high DC's.
Hypothesis's:
- Rick and I (mainly Rick haha) think about the following....
- Perhaps there was something in the braided fuel lines I made (even though I cleaned them out) and it got sucked into a injector or eventually made it's way through the return and back to the filter again.
- It's got to be a mechanical issue somewhere on the feed side. Why? Because the fuel pressure is fine.
- Maybe there is a kink of some nature in the feed line (it's a stock line from tank to filter).
- Perhaps the voltage to the pump is wack? (I have yet to check this).
- Can't be the pump or filter as both are brand new and still having the problem
Questions for you guys:
- Have you had any similar issues with kinked lines or injectors sucking in bad things? What did you do to locate the problem?
- I'm fairly convinced I am going to flow test my injectors...any objections to that idea?
- Not really sure what to ask anymore haha...so if Rick wants to chime in then you're welcome to. His name is Tuned1 here on H-T just as an FYI.
Side Note:
- Rick, that cold enrichment was great on the dyno. However it was even worse on the street haha. The O2 was pegged at like 17.5-18.0 and it didn't really want to come down. Luckily I had the old chip in my car so I just stuck that one in instead.
- For those familar with the previous thread, well I have some interesting updates after today's dyno session.
Before the dyno:
- Replaced the fuel filter with a new filter element. When I opened up the canister (AEM) I noticed some metal shavings. They were really small in size, almost like glitter. There wasn't alot but a definite amount. ---> Refer to hypothesis 1 below.
On The Dyno:
- All is fine an well and we seem to be making some kind of progress. We get to the 8000rpm range and are trying to get the A/F's right before continuing on to ignition. My tuner (http://www.tuned1.com
) Rick adds 9% fuel from 5000-9000 and we make a pull. The changes take from 5000-6500, but from 6500-8000 there was no change at all in the A/F's. Hmmmm looks like we are maxing out the 1000's at 344whp?!?Steps Taken Today:
- Rick sets up a Fluke 88 to see what the DC's on the injectors are actually reading. At 6000rpm and 12psi (on a T3 60-1 .82...so not a huge turbo) they were at 74%. The Hondata calculated value was 78%...a mere 4% difference. So now it seems as though that 122% I was seeing in the program meant that the injectors were at 100% and basically saying "Yea, go F yourself buddy." This now rules out Hondata as being the culprit for the high DC's.
Hypothesis's:
- Rick and I (mainly Rick haha) think about the following....
- Perhaps there was something in the braided fuel lines I made (even though I cleaned them out) and it got sucked into a injector or eventually made it's way through the return and back to the filter again.
- It's got to be a mechanical issue somewhere on the feed side. Why? Because the fuel pressure is fine.
- Maybe there is a kink of some nature in the feed line (it's a stock line from tank to filter).
- Perhaps the voltage to the pump is wack? (I have yet to check this).
- Can't be the pump or filter as both are brand new and still having the problem
Questions for you guys:
- Have you had any similar issues with kinked lines or injectors sucking in bad things? What did you do to locate the problem?
- I'm fairly convinced I am going to flow test my injectors...any objections to that idea?
- Not really sure what to ask anymore haha...so if Rick wants to chime in then you're welcome to. His name is Tuned1 here on H-T just as an FYI.
Side Note:
- Rick, that cold enrichment was great on the dyno. However it was even worse on the street haha. The O2 was pegged at like 17.5-18.0 and it didn't really want to come down. Luckily I had the old chip in my car so I just stuck that one in instead.
10-24-2006, 06:08 PM
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Re: Precision 1000's "Round Two" (AF-P Dunc)
does the pressure rise as boost rises?
this has to be a mechanical issue. Well, could be the fact that your injectors are not flowing the same as they were. Do you guys have a place to flow bench injectors up there? I know around here, we have a place that flow tests injectors for like 10 bucks an injector. May want to have the injectors tested.
otherwise, i wonder about if the regulator is working appropriately
this has to be a mechanical issue. Well, could be the fact that your injectors are not flowing the same as they were. Do you guys have a place to flow bench injectors up there? I know around here, we have a place that flow tests injectors for like 10 bucks an injector. May want to have the injectors tested.
otherwise, i wonder about if the regulator is working appropriately
10-24-2006, 06:40 PM
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Re: Precision 1000's "Round Two" (seen4ever)
You might wanna check the prescreen filters on the injectors. Ive actually had there be so much sludge in a gas tank from the car sitting. We cleaned the tank and changed the filter and the car still had the problem. So we pulled the injectors off and found there to be metal debris/sludge. Just took at blowgun and cleaned them out. Fixed the problem. It might not be your problem. But something you might have overlooked.
10-24-2006, 07:40 PM
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Re: Precision 1000's "Round Two" (TurboLSVtecTeg)
You know that little ring on the end of the fuel rail? the seal. if you have the wrong one on there (the one witout the reliefs) it will make this exact problem. Check that and take a picture of what you have in there
10-24-2006, 08:49 PM
#5
Re: Precision 1000's "Round Two" (Blind-Fashion)
First, check to make sure fuel pressure is staying where it should (rising 1psi for every lb of boost with a 1:1 regulator) throughout.
If yes, it isnt your pump or wiring.
If no, check the voltage as you stated and either wire direct to battery or replace the pump (some new pumps can be defective on occasion) if the voltage checks out.
Highly unlikely that all four of your injectors would be equally clogged...
If yes, it isnt your pump or wiring.
If no, check the voltage as you stated and either wire direct to battery or replace the pump (some new pumps can be defective on occasion) if the voltage checks out.
Highly unlikely that all four of your injectors would be equally clogged...
10-24-2006, 09:46 PM
#6
BCICAN
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Re: Precision 1000's "Round Two" (seen4ever)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by seen4ever »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you guys have a place to flow bench injectors up there?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I believe there is indeed a place locally that does that. I am going to double check tomorrow for sure though. Either way, I think I will get them checked for peace of mind.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blind-Fashion »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You know that little ring on the end of the fuel rail? the seal. if you have the wrong one on there (the one witout the reliefs) it will make this exact problem. Check that and take a picture of what you have in there </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not sure I follow you on this one. Are you talking about the O-ring that goes in the end of the rail for like my fitting? ---> Here is the best picture I have to the return line setup as of right now. Once I figure out what you mean, I'll go snap a picture of it. http://memimage.cardomain.net/...l.jpg
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xenocron »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First, check to make sure fuel pressure is staying where it should (rising 1psi for every lb of boost with a 1:1 regulator) throughout.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had a guy at the shop look at the gauge mounted on the rail when I did a pull a couple weeks ago (same issue). He said that it did in fact rise....I'll check it out again this Friday or something to double and triple check it. But I believe the pressure is cool. However, speaking of pressure: When you turn the key on you obviously build pressure. But when I key it off, the pressure does not hold. I've never really thought anything of this until now. I know most cars hold residual pressure for a substantial amount of time, but mine literally falls like a rock. It'll go to 0psi in less than 5 seconds after turning the car off. Could this be part of the issue?
I believe there is indeed a place locally that does that. I am going to double check tomorrow for sure though. Either way, I think I will get them checked for peace of mind.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blind-Fashion »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You know that little ring on the end of the fuel rail? the seal. if you have the wrong one on there (the one witout the reliefs) it will make this exact problem. Check that and take a picture of what you have in there </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not sure I follow you on this one. Are you talking about the O-ring that goes in the end of the rail for like my fitting? ---> Here is the best picture I have to the return line setup as of right now. Once I figure out what you mean, I'll go snap a picture of it. http://memimage.cardomain.net/...l.jpg
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xenocron »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First, check to make sure fuel pressure is staying where it should (rising 1psi for every lb of boost with a 1:1 regulator) throughout.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had a guy at the shop look at the gauge mounted on the rail when I did a pull a couple weeks ago (same issue). He said that it did in fact rise....I'll check it out again this Friday or something to double and triple check it. But I believe the pressure is cool. However, speaking of pressure: When you turn the key on you obviously build pressure. But when I key it off, the pressure does not hold. I've never really thought anything of this until now. I know most cars hold residual pressure for a substantial amount of time, but mine literally falls like a rock. It'll go to 0psi in less than 5 seconds after turning the car off. Could this be part of the issue?
10-24-2006, 10:15 PM
#7
BCICAN
Thread Starter
Re: Precision 1000's "Round Two" (AF-P Dunc)
Oh and as Mase said in the last thread, my fuel multiplier may have been off....we checked that tonight as well. The calculator with the new pressure/cc's/and engine size gave us .262. My current mulitplier is .251 so that's not that far off.
We also loaded in the base map for a B18C5 with 750's @50psi and running 17psi (from the custom tables). We wanted to see if perhaps my maps were faulty somehow. But the car ran lean as hell is like absolute poo....but maybe that's since it's a basemap
haha.
We also loaded in the base map for a B18C5 with 750's @50psi and running 17psi (from the custom tables). We wanted to see if perhaps my maps were faulty somehow. But the car ran lean as hell is like absolute poo....but maybe that's since it's a basemap
haha.
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10-24-2006, 10:55 PM
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Re: Precision 1000's "Round Two" (AF-P Dunc)
are you using a resistor box? try inspecting it or swap it out with another one!
did u try using the stock injectors to see if they do show the same dutie cycle values?
did u try using the stock injectors to see if they do show the same dutie cycle values?
10-24-2006, 11:01 PM
#9
BCICAN
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Re: Precision 1000's "Round Two" (IntegraTypeR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraTypeR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you using a resistor box? try inspecting it or swap it out with another one!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sure am. I had a pretty reliable source install it for me....Tuned1 (Rick)
. I asked the same exact question to Rick this afternoon while breaking the car down with all this running through my head. We didn't think this would cause this type of issue. Although I'll put the question out there for you guys...could a faulty resistor box work, but be screwing up and causing the high DC's throughout the entire rpm/load range? I was told that they basically either work or they don't.
Sure am. I had a pretty reliable source install it for me....Tuned1 (Rick)
. I asked the same exact question to Rick this afternoon while breaking the car down with all this running through my head. We didn't think this would cause this type of issue. Although I'll put the question out there for you guys...could a faulty resistor box work, but be screwing up and causing the high DC's throughout the entire rpm/load range? I was told that they basically either work or they don't.
10-25-2006, 05:32 AM
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Re: Precision 1000's "Round Two" (AF-P Dunc)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AF-P Dunc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Sure am. I had a pretty reliable source install it for me....Tuned1 (Rick). I asked the same exact question to Rick this afternoon while breaking the car down with all this running through my head. We didn't think this would cause this type of issue. Although I'll put the question out there for you guys...could a faulty resistor box work, but be screwing up and causing the high DC's throughout the entire rpm/load range? I was told that they basically either work or they don't.</TD></TR></TABLE>I have a freind here that had the same problems as you have"maxin out the precision 1000cc's at 350 whp".After a few weeks of screwing around with everything it turned out to be a bad resistor box.buy a brand new one or find a known good one.
Sure am. I had a pretty reliable source install it for me....Tuned1 (Rick)
. I asked the same exact question to Rick this afternoon while breaking the car down with all this running through my head. We didn't think this would cause this type of issue. Although I'll put the question out there for you guys...could a faulty resistor box work, but be screwing up and causing the high DC's throughout the entire rpm/load range? I was told that they basically either work or they don't.</TD></TR></TABLE>I have a freind here that had the same problems as you have"maxin out the precision 1000cc's at 350 whp".After a few weeks of screwing around with everything it turned out to be a bad resistor box.buy a brand new one or find a known good one.
10-25-2006, 07:12 AM
#11
BCICAN
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Re: Precision 1000's "Round Two" (danny_t66)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danny_t66 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a freind here that had the same problems as you have"maxin out the precision 1000cc's at 350 whp".After a few weeks of screwing around with everything it turned out to be a bad resistor box.buy a brand new one or find a known good one.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Interesting. Looks like I'll be buying a new one just to make sure.
Interesting. Looks like I'll be buying a new one just to make sure.
10-25-2006, 11:24 AM
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Re: Precision 1000's "Round Two" (AF-P Dunc)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AF-P Dunc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Interesting. Looks like I'll be buying a new one just to make sure. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like a resistor box issue.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Sounds like a resistor box issue.
10-25-2006, 01:06 PM
#13
BCICAN
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Re: Precision 1000's "Round Two" (mtber)
Well I just pulled the injectors out down in the parking garage here at school haha. They're getting flow tested tomorrow most likely and should know what 1000's flow at 52psi by *hopefully* Friday.
I also just called the dealer about the resistor box. $106.63 and there is only one left in the <U>entire</U> country hahaha. Yea screw buying a brand new one haha....I'll be doing a used $20 parts search. Hopefully I'll have more information to report back with on Friday.
They're getting flow tested tomorrow most likely and should know what 1000's flow at 52psi by *hopefully* Friday.I also just called the dealer about the resistor box. $106.63 and there is only one left in the <U>entire</U> country hahaha. Yea screw buying a brand new one haha....I'll be doing a used $20 parts search.
Hopefully I'll have more information to report back with on Friday.
10-25-2006, 01:31 PM
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Re: Precision 1000's "Round Two" (AF-P Dunc)
You may want to try an FJO or AEM injector driver (if that is the issue). Does the fuel pressure rise as you get in boost like it should?
10-25-2006, 01:35 PM
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Re: Precision 1000's "Round Two" (AF-P Dunc)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AF-P Dunc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">speaking of pressure: When you turn the key on you obviously build pressure. But when I key it off, the pressure does not hold. I've never really thought anything of this until now. I know most cars hold residual pressure for a substantial amount of time, but mine literally falls like a rock. It'll go to 0psi in less than 5 seconds after turning the car off. Could this be part of the issue?</TD></TR></TABLE>
There is your problem, pressure MUST hold when key off. You have a leak in the system. The following could all affect it- leak in lines, leaking injectors@ the nozzle seat, bad FPR, bad check valve@ fuel pump. When you turn key off the system must remain pressurised for hot starts, does it take you some time to restart the car while it still hot? Since you say you have new injectors and fuel pump and no visible leaks, then your problem is a bad spring diaphragm in your FPR.
There is your problem, pressure MUST hold when key off. You have a leak in the system. The following could all affect it- leak in lines, leaking injectors@ the nozzle seat, bad FPR, bad check valve@ fuel pump. When you turn key off the system must remain pressurised for hot starts, does it take you some time to restart the car while it still hot? Since you say you have new injectors and fuel pump and no visible leaks, then your problem is a bad spring diaphragm in your FPR.
10-25-2006, 01:55 PM
#16
BCICAN
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Re: Precision 1000's "Round Two" (Flexmyrex)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ladysman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does the fuel pressure rise as you get in boost like it should?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Last time I checked (like two weeks ago) it did. I was having this problem then and watched it and it did rise. I'm going to double check it again this weekend or next week once I get the injectors and stuff back.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flexmyrex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is your problem, pressure MUST hold when key off. You have a leak in the system. The following could all affect it- leak in lines, leaking injectors@ the nozzle seat, bad FPR, bad check valve@ fuel pump. When you turn key off the system must remain pressurised for hot starts, does it take you some time to restart the car while it still hot? Since you say you have new injectors and fuel pump and no visible leaks, then your problem is a bad spring diaphragm in your FPR.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would be surprised if I have a leak of some sort. I don't see any gas under the car ever, don't smell any gas ever, and my gauge doesn't drop at an unusual rate. I'd believe the FPR thing before a leak, but all will be checked shortly. I have no troubles at all starting the car. When it sits over night or something and it's kinda cold out it may or may not start on the first crank (like cranking it for 3 seconds), but it will start immediately on the second try....when it's hot out, I have no problems. Once the car is up to operating temp I can turn it on and off at will with no hesitation at all.
Would the spring diaphram in the FPR that you talk of cause higher DC's all over the place? Both in and out of boost? That's another good idea I didn't think of. I'll snag the project car's FPR at the shop for a pull and see.
Also, would a leaking injector be noticed at the flow testing place? If so, then I'll know that answer soon as well haha.
Last time I checked (like two weeks ago) it did. I was having this problem then and watched it and it did rise. I'm going to double check it again this weekend or next week once I get the injectors and stuff back.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flexmyrex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is your problem, pressure MUST hold when key off. You have a leak in the system. The following could all affect it- leak in lines, leaking injectors@ the nozzle seat, bad FPR, bad check valve@ fuel pump. When you turn key off the system must remain pressurised for hot starts, does it take you some time to restart the car while it still hot? Since you say you have new injectors and fuel pump and no visible leaks, then your problem is a bad spring diaphragm in your FPR.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would be surprised if I have a leak of some sort. I don't see any gas under the car ever, don't smell any gas ever, and my gauge doesn't drop at an unusual rate. I'd believe the FPR thing before a leak, but all will be checked shortly. I have no troubles at all starting the car. When it sits over night or something and it's kinda cold out it may or may not start on the first crank (like cranking it for 3 seconds), but it will start immediately on the second try....when it's hot out, I have no problems. Once the car is up to operating temp I can turn it on and off at will with no hesitation at all.
Would the spring diaphram in the FPR that you talk of cause higher DC's all over the place? Both in and out of boost? That's another good idea I didn't think of. I'll snag the project car's FPR at the shop for a pull and see.
Also, would a leaking injector be noticed at the flow testing place? If so, then I'll know that answer soon as well haha.
10-25-2006, 02:06 PM
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Re: Precision 1000's "Round Two" (AF-P Dunc)
if u have the spring on the wrong side of an adjustable FPR it will imediatly drop pressure.
Ive seen it so the car will still run but not good.
Ive seen it so the car will still run but not good.
10-25-2006, 02:22 PM
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Re: Precision 1000's "Round Two" (AF-P Dunc)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AF-P Dunc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Would the spring diaphram in the FPR that you talk of cause higher DC's all over the place? Both in and out of boost? That's another good idea I didn't think of. I'll snag the project car's FPR at the shop for a pull and see.
Also, would a leaking injector be noticed at the flow testing place? If so, then I'll know that answer soon as well haha.</TD></TR></TABLE>
of course, the fpr is what holds pressure behind the injector- everytime the injector is pulsed on x amount of fuel is comsumed. Since the fpr could be losing pressure the injector duty must be increased in order to consume the same amount of fuel. Instead of doing it through pressure your doing it through duty cycle, you can only do it to a point.
they should.
Would the spring diaphram in the FPR that you talk of cause higher DC's all over the place? Both in and out of boost? That's another good idea I didn't think of. I'll snag the project car's FPR at the shop for a pull and see.
Also, would a leaking injector be noticed at the flow testing place? If so, then I'll know that answer soon as well haha.</TD></TR></TABLE>
of course, the fpr is what holds pressure behind the injector- everytime the injector is pulsed on x amount of fuel is comsumed. Since the fpr could be losing pressure the injector duty must be increased in order to consume the same amount of fuel. Instead of doing it through pressure your doing it through duty cycle, you can only do it to a point.
they should.
10-25-2006, 03:05 PM
#19
BCICAN
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Re: Precision 1000's "Round Two" (Flexmyrex)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flexmyrex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
of course, the fpr is what holds pressure behind the injector- everytime the injector is pulsed on x amount of fuel is comsumed. Since the fpr could be losing pressure the injector duty must be increased in order to consume the same amount of fuel. Instead of doing it through pressure your doing it through duty cycle, you can only do it to a point.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is there a way to look at the FPR's insides or test it to see if the diaphram is messed up?
I found the .pdf install file for my FPR and it said:
"NOTE: Testing the enclosed regulator by applying air pressure or vacuum to the vacuum port with a hand-held pump will yield poor results, due to the slight air leakage through the adjustment screw threads. This minute leakage, which is typical of all adjustable fuel pressure regulators, does not, in any way, affect the performance of the regulator.
This is the regulator I have: http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku
of course, the fpr is what holds pressure behind the injector- everytime the injector is pulsed on x amount of fuel is comsumed. Since the fpr could be losing pressure the injector duty must be increased in order to consume the same amount of fuel. Instead of doing it through pressure your doing it through duty cycle, you can only do it to a point.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is there a way to look at the FPR's insides or test it to see if the diaphram is messed up?
I found the .pdf install file for my FPR and it said:
"NOTE: Testing the enclosed regulator by applying air pressure or vacuum to the vacuum port with a hand-held pump will yield poor results, due to the slight air leakage through the adjustment screw threads. This minute leakage, which is typical of all adjustable fuel pressure regulators, does not, in any way, affect the performance of the regulator.
This is the regulator I have: http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku
10-25-2006, 03:09 PM
#20
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Re: Precision 1000's "Round Two" (AF-P Dunc)
actually that does affect the performance of the regulator, because that is a vacum leak. on my pos aeormotice regulator it was doing the same thing, the fuel pressure was bouncing all over @ idle, and one time i even notice the pressure was higher than it should have been.....
since ive switch to weldon regulator i have steady fuel pressure and no vacum leaks.
since ive switch to weldon regulator i have steady fuel pressure and no vacum leaks.
10-25-2006, 03:40 PM
#21
BCICAN
Thread Starter
Re: Precision 1000's "Round Two" (dturbocivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually that does affect the performance of the regulator, because that is a vacum leak. on my pos aeormotice regulator it was doing the same thing, the fuel pressure was bouncing all over @ idle, and one time i even notice the pressure was higher than it should have been..... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe I'm lucky then with the vaccum haha. My pressures hold steady at least. Oh, and Rick had me do the "take off the charge pipe and give my hand a hicky test" to see if I had any vaccum leaks. Well the car wanted to make out with my hand badly so I think I'm good in that area.
Maybe I'm lucky then with the vaccum haha. My pressures hold steady at least. Oh, and Rick had me do the "take off the charge pipe and give my hand a hicky test" to see if I had any vaccum leaks. Well the car wanted to make out with my hand badly so I think I'm good in that area.
10-25-2006, 04:34 PM
#23
BCICAN
Thread Starter
Re: Precision 1000's "Round Two" (IN VTEC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can datalog battery voltages in the Hondalogger.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Battery voltages that are at the fuel pump?? I thought it was just battery voltage in general.
Battery voltages that are at the fuel pump?? I thought it was just battery voltage in general.
10-25-2006, 05:04 PM
#24
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Re: Precision 1000's "Round Two" (AF-P Dunc)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AF-P Dunc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Battery voltages that are at the fuel pump?? I thought it was just battery voltage in general.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is but if its at 11 volts at higher RPM, you have a problem with the pump not getting enough juice.
It is but if its at 11 volts at higher RPM, you have a problem with the pump not getting enough juice.
10-26-2006, 04:08 PM
#25
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Re: Precision 1000's "Round Two" (Flexmyrex)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flexmyrex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
There is your problem, pressure MUST hold when key off. You have a leak in the system. The following could all affect it- leak in lines, leaking injectors@ the nozzle seat, bad FPR, bad check valve@ fuel pump. When you turn key off the system must remain pressurised for hot starts, does it take you some time to restart the car while it still hot? Since you say you have new injectors and fuel pump and no visible leaks, then your problem is a bad spring diaphragm in your FPR.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no necessary, it depends on the fuel pressure regulator he has and where the gauge is mounted. the Aeromotive regulators will not hold pressure when the car is off, they need vacuum of the car to hold the pressure at idle. My paxton regulator and Aeromotive both dropped like a rock, thsi isn't any issue, its normal for those regulators.
There is your problem, pressure MUST hold when key off. You have a leak in the system. The following could all affect it- leak in lines, leaking injectors@ the nozzle seat, bad FPR, bad check valve@ fuel pump. When you turn key off the system must remain pressurised for hot starts, does it take you some time to restart the car while it still hot? Since you say you have new injectors and fuel pump and no visible leaks, then your problem is a bad spring diaphragm in your FPR.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no necessary, it depends on the fuel pressure regulator he has and where the gauge is mounted. the Aeromotive regulators will not hold pressure when the car is off, they need vacuum of the car to hold the pressure at idle. My paxton regulator and Aeromotive both dropped like a rock, thsi isn't any issue, its normal for those regulators.