As I've written before, I'm going to turbocharge my JDM B18 Type-R engine in my classic Mini. Most of the choices are pretty straight forward. Thanks for everyone's help on this.

I'm really drawn to the Garrett GT28R because of its ball bearing design, along with it being oil and water cooling. It sounds like a design that, while expensive, and perhaps over kill for the relatively modest power I'm looking for, it also may mean greater longevity and durability.

Is there another turbo I should be considering that can compete with the GT28? The difference in cost, considering over all budget of this project, is not the the greatest consideration.

Longevity, reliability, fragility, driveability and then power, in that order are my goals.

As for power, I'm targeting 300hp with no internal engine modifications.
If it requires a more efficient radiator or oil cooler, that will just be added to the list.

Thanks for your help,

 

A 16g would be cheaper. Its water cooled as well. Their good for 300hp easy.

 

You dont need to get a BB turbocharger strictly cause of longevity. JB can be equally as reliable and rebuildable in the event there is a failure. Im sure there would be other options, however i am no Turbo selection expert. There are other's on here who can assist with a great knowledge in turbo choice. There are so many choices out there , as well as custom designs that the possiblities are really endless.

Longevity and reliabilty will come with a quality tune and quailty parts. As well as proper maintainece

A bigger radiator is going to be recommended but may not be 100% needed. ALot will depend on climate, use of car, as well as airflow in youre mini application. With all that factored in it might be in youre best intrest to upgrade. Oil cooler is optional as well based on climate and use of car. I would say the radiator would def be a good idea and leave the oil cooler as optional. In youre application im sure space is a issue, something to keep in mind.

 

That turbo really is ideal with an internal wastegate for your goals and space constraints, the only option you MAY have, is if the GT28 is available in a non ball bearing option. If it is, the cost should be significantly less, I'm not sure if you can get it journal bearing though.

EDIT:

You can get the GT28 in journal bearing, about $800 compared to $1400 for ball bearing.

 

There are several "GT28R" in the family of GT-R series. For your purposes I would also stick with the ball-bearing package of the GT2860RS over the,GT28R GT2871R or Gt2876. All of them come in a T04B compressor cover that is internally wastegated, but for the JDM engine, the "Disco Potato" in a .86 T25 flange is best for your application on that engine with stock internals. It presents a much better powerband overall than the GT28R that's only about 35lbs/min, and will be pushed. So be careful when you say "GT28R" there are several variations in that family. For you, about 40lbs/min would do just great for that engine. Definitely go for the GT2860RS

 

Got ya. The more reading I do, the more confused I get with what goes with what but I can certainly remember GT2860RS. The only recommendation the installer had was that I use the T3 housing.

Again, I have to idea what the difference is or if it makes a difference.


Also, does anyone see any reason to mess with the ignition on this engine? It was recommended by another party that COP may make things work better....I'm mystified how.

 

Stock ignition is more then enough for youre goals. i mean if you really want to sink more money into a igniton then go for it, but completely unnessacary

Youre going to have to get colder plugs and run a much smaller gap. I would get some NGK wires and NGK plugs gap to around .026-.028 for youre boost levels. Thats all you will need for ignition. If youre swap had some miles on it wouldnt be a bad idea to get a new OEM cap and rotor as well

If youre going over 14psi or so i would maybe tighten the gap a little.

 

I can do that Should I use MSD or stock? I have heard good things and horror stories about MSD.
I would like to know the general consensus about MSD. If anyone cares to render their experience or opinion.

I already have NGK wires and plugs in it. I have been sold on NGK since my motorcycle days....

I've also taken a look at the Hondata 4BAR map sensor....since I'll be using the S300, this may show some value. At least it sounds good

I looked at the Honda boost control solenoid but but it seems contradictory in what it does.

For use with the s300, K-Pro and 2006+ Civic Si, the Hondata Normally Closed boost control solenoid is designed for use in high boost applications, but also works well in low boost applications. It is normally closed so that if there is a failure you will run off the wastegate spring instead of over boosting. It uses 1/8th NPT fittings which allow you to use NPT to AN fittings if you wish.

I'm a little chicken about that much boost...I have this recurring nightmare of having the valve cover and the number one piston sitting in the passenger seat.
Thanks much for your suggestions...

Soon I'll have to change my name to VTEC+Mini+Turbo, Or Mini+VTEC+Turbo. Or when someone asks me what's runnin'. "Why, it runs on money".

 

Do not go with the T3 version. That changes the way the waste gate fits and gives worse response for the power level your looking for. Trust me when I say T25 flange .86a/r

 

if youre running over 10psi you will need to get a aftermarket MAP sensor. Hondata is a good option its what i purchased, its plug and play.

I wouldnt get the MSD. OEM is fine