to post or blockgaurd
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phatrick2332 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it puts pressure on the cylinder walls just like a blockgaurd, so u have to either bore or hone it to make sure its round and true still.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i understand that i didnt say anything about the hone... that is needed but the bore isnt
i understand that i didnt say anything about the hone... that is needed but the bore isnt
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugensport9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i understand that i didnt say anything about the hone... that is needed but the bore isnt</TD></TR></TABLE>
if the walls of the cylinders ovalize (or become anyshape other than of a true circle), they must be bored to a new circle. The idea behing honing is so that ring seals seat.
i understand that i didnt say anything about the hone... that is needed but the bore isnt</TD></TR></TABLE>
if the walls of the cylinders ovalize (or become anyshape other than of a true circle), they must be bored to a new circle. The idea behing honing is so that ring seals seat.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegasaurus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if the walls of the cylinders ovalize (or become anyshape other than of a true circle), they must be bored to a new circle. The idea behing honing is so that ring seals seat. </TD></TR></TABLE>
IF... i was just saying its not needed. also since he is using the turbopanda hybrid set up he wants to keep the stock bore.
if the walls of the cylinders ovalize (or become anyshape other than of a true circle), they must be bored to a new circle. The idea behing honing is so that ring seals seat. </TD></TR></TABLE>
IF... i was just saying its not needed. also since he is using the turbopanda hybrid set up he wants to keep the stock bore.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugensport9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
IF... i was just saying its not needed. also since he is using the turbopanda hybrid set up he wants to keep the stock bore.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, this is true, as when you post it, you should only torque the posts to no greater than 2 ft/lb and use jbweld to hold them in place. However do to the variances from torquing them, it is best to re-bore the block. However if you are 100% sure your specs are all EXACTLY the same and you are putting EXACTLY the same amount of pressure in the exact mirrored opposite sides of the block, then you will be fine with just the hone for the piston rings.
IF... i was just saying its not needed. also since he is using the turbopanda hybrid set up he wants to keep the stock bore.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, this is true, as when you post it, you should only torque the posts to no greater than 2 ft/lb and use jbweld to hold them in place. However do to the variances from torquing them, it is best to re-bore the block. However if you are 100% sure your specs are all EXACTLY the same and you are putting EXACTLY the same amount of pressure in the exact mirrored opposite sides of the block, then you will be fine with just the hone for the piston rings.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegasaurus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yes, this is true, as when you post it, you should only torque the posts to no greater than 2 ft/lb and use jbweld to hold them in place. However do to the variances from torquing them, it is best to re-bore the block. However if you are 100% sure your specs are all EXACTLY the same and you are putting EXACTLY the same amount of pressure in the exact mirrored opposite sides of the block, then you will be fine with just the hone for the piston rings.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what are u talking about guy?
its not NEEDED. hone it and u should be just fine
i would get a block guard. it will minimize sleeve shifting for your stock block
yes, this is true, as when you post it, you should only torque the posts to no greater than 2 ft/lb and use jbweld to hold them in place. However do to the variances from torquing them, it is best to re-bore the block. However if you are 100% sure your specs are all EXACTLY the same and you are putting EXACTLY the same amount of pressure in the exact mirrored opposite sides of the block, then you will be fine with just the hone for the piston rings.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what are u talking about guy?
its not NEEDED. hone it and u should be just fine
i would get a block guard. it will minimize sleeve shifting for your stock block
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugensport9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what are u talking about guy?
its not NEEDED. hone it and u should be just fine
i would get a block guard. it will minimize sleeve shifting for your stock block</TD></TR></TABLE>
Gus you have absolutely NO idea what you're talking about. you drive a jeep that runs a 17+ sec quarter mile (i have the video to prove so)
Posting a block oscilates the sleeves (as does using a block gaurd). When a sleeve changes position or there is stress put on it from a force outside the center (explosion) a hone/bore is required.
Please feel free to call any machine shop and ask their opinion.
what are u talking about guy?
its not NEEDED. hone it and u should be just fine
i would get a block guard. it will minimize sleeve shifting for your stock block</TD></TR></TABLE>
Gus you have absolutely NO idea what you're talking about. you drive a jeep that runs a 17+ sec quarter mile (i have the video to prove so)
Posting a block oscilates the sleeves (as does using a block gaurd). When a sleeve changes position or there is stress put on it from a force outside the center (explosion) a hone/bore is required.Please feel free to call any machine shop and ask their opinion.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegasaurus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Gus you have absolutely NO idea what you're talking about. you drive a jeep that runs a 17+ sec quarter mile (i have the video to prove so)
Posting a block oscilates the sleeves (as does using a block gaurd). When a sleeve changes position or there is stress put on it from a force outside the center (explosion) a hone/bore is required.
Please feel free to call any machine shop and ask their opinion.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hey guy that was below the belt, and has nothing to do with this subject... i was just messin with that race but its cool, i mean c'mon its a jeep
, i see how it is.
i understand when a sleeve changes position that a bore/hone is needed.
what i am saying in a d16y8 a relatively new motor when installing new internals, you would only have to hone, i dont think the sleeves are going to have changed possitions.
he wasnt saying he wants to change his current bore. which is why i said that he would only need to hone. and i would choose the blockguard only because of what ive read turbopanda has been very successfull with d16s with stock blocks and with blockguards... that is what we are talking about, isnt it?
Gus you have absolutely NO idea what you're talking about. you drive a jeep that runs a 17+ sec quarter mile (i have the video to prove so)
Posting a block oscilates the sleeves (as does using a block gaurd). When a sleeve changes position or there is stress put on it from a force outside the center (explosion) a hone/bore is required.Please feel free to call any machine shop and ask their opinion.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hey guy that was below the belt, and has nothing to do with this subject... i was just messin with that race but its cool, i mean c'mon its a jeep
, i see how it is.i understand when a sleeve changes position that a bore/hone is needed.
what i am saying in a d16y8 a relatively new motor when installing new internals, you would only have to hone, i dont think the sleeves are going to have changed possitions.
he wasnt saying he wants to change his current bore. which is why i said that he would only need to hone. and i would choose the blockguard only because of what ive read turbopanda has been very successfull with d16s with stock blocks and with blockguards... that is what we are talking about, isnt it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugensport9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i understand when a sleeve changes position that a bore/hone is needed.
what i am saying in a d16y8 a relatively new motor when installing new internals, you would only have to hone, i dont think the sleeves are going to have changed possitions.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
obviously you don't get the oscilating sleeve concept. When ANY stress is put on a sleeve externally (outside the combustion chamber), it WILL shift because the sleeve will not longer be able to expand evenly. regardless of if it snew or not a bore is necessary unless you find a way to put EVEN pressure on all parts of the sleeves.
i understand when a sleeve changes position that a bore/hone is needed.
what i am saying in a d16y8 a relatively new motor when installing new internals, you would only have to hone, i dont think the sleeves are going to have changed possitions.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
obviously you don't get the oscilating sleeve concept. When ANY stress is put on a sleeve externally (outside the combustion chamber), it WILL shift because the sleeve will not longer be able to expand evenly. regardless of if it snew or not a bore is necessary unless you find a way to put EVEN pressure on all parts of the sleeves.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegasaurus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
obviously you don't get the oscilating sleeve concept. When ANY stress is put on a sleeve externally (outside the combustion chamber), it WILL shift because the sleeve will not longer be able to expand evenly. regardless of if it snew or not a bore is necessary unless you find a way to put EVEN pressure on all parts of the sleeves.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok so are u saying its a must to bore? because no one running turbopandas hybrid piston/rod set up did any boring of there d16s. they just honed and blockguarded. if u dont believe me then go ahead and read about it. search for turbopanda the thread is under d16 hybrid piston/rods
obviously you don't get the oscilating sleeve concept. When ANY stress is put on a sleeve externally (outside the combustion chamber), it WILL shift because the sleeve will not longer be able to expand evenly. regardless of if it snew or not a bore is necessary unless you find a way to put EVEN pressure on all parts of the sleeves.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok so are u saying its a must to bore? because no one running turbopandas hybrid piston/rod set up did any boring of there d16s. they just honed and blockguarded. if u dont believe me then go ahead and read about it. search for turbopanda the thread is under d16 hybrid piston/rods
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugensport9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ok so are u saying its a must to bore? because no one running turbopandas hybrid piston/rod set up did any boring of there d16s. they just honed and blockguarded. if u dont believe me then go ahead and read about it. search for turbopanda the thread is under d16 hybrid piston/rods</TD></TR></TABLE>
adding pistons/rods doesn't need a bore (a hone yes). The block gaurd can just drop in, but for full effectiveness, it should be pounded in, the nthe cylinder walls will be bored/honed. When you just set it in, you wont change the shape of the walls, however you aren't exploiting the full potential of the block gaurd.
-ryan
ok so are u saying its a must to bore? because no one running turbopandas hybrid piston/rod set up did any boring of there d16s. they just honed and blockguarded. if u dont believe me then go ahead and read about it. search for turbopanda the thread is under d16 hybrid piston/rods</TD></TR></TABLE>
adding pistons/rods doesn't need a bore (a hone yes). The block gaurd can just drop in, but for full effectiveness, it should be pounded in, the nthe cylinder walls will be bored/honed. When you just set it in, you wont change the shape of the walls, however you aren't exploiting the full potential of the block gaurd.
-ryan
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegasaurus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
adding pistons/rods doesn't need a bore (a hone yes). The block gaurd can just drop in, but for full effectiveness, it should be pounded in, the nthe cylinder walls will be bored/honed. When you just set it in, you wont change the shape of the walls, however you aren't exploiting the full potential of the block gaurd.
-ryan</TD></TR></TABLE>
the reason why i didn't need to bore is because i had my blockguard installed PROPERLY. If you "pound" it in, of course you're going to do some deformation to the cylinder walls. It needs to be tapped in gently & evenly, or installed professionally by a machine shop/mechanic who knows what he's doing. If its installed right, there's no need for a bore.. a hone will do just fine.
I guess if i've gone over 1.7 bar of boost on stock sleeves & didn't break, my blockguard isn't working to its full potential..
adding pistons/rods doesn't need a bore (a hone yes). The block gaurd can just drop in, but for full effectiveness, it should be pounded in, the nthe cylinder walls will be bored/honed. When you just set it in, you wont change the shape of the walls, however you aren't exploiting the full potential of the block gaurd.
-ryan</TD></TR></TABLE>
the reason why i didn't need to bore is because i had my blockguard installed PROPERLY. If you "pound" it in, of course you're going to do some deformation to the cylinder walls. It needs to be tapped in gently & evenly, or installed professionally by a machine shop/mechanic who knows what he's doing. If its installed right, there's no need for a bore.. a hone will do just fine.

I guess if i've gone over 1.7 bar of boost on stock sleeves & didn't break, my blockguard isn't working to its full potential..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbopanda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I guess if i've gone over 1.7 bar of boost on stock sleeves & didn't break, my blockguard isn't working to its full potential..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
or maybe the low compression of the supra piston/b16 rod is saving ur ***
Stock sleeves have been proven to withstand more than 450whp - almost all of the inlinepro cars are running a low compression headgasket on stock sleeves making 500whp
whatever, no need to argue... you guys can do what you want - the man just asked for my opinion, and i stated he should post it and bore/hone afterwards
I guess if i've gone over 1.7 bar of boost on stock sleeves & didn't break, my blockguard isn't working to its full potential..
</TD></TR></TABLE>or maybe the low compression of the supra piston/b16 rod is saving ur ***
Stock sleeves have been proven to withstand more than 450whp - almost all of the inlinepro cars are running a low compression headgasket on stock sleeves making 500whp whatever, no need to argue... you guys can do what you want - the man just asked for my opinion, and i stated he should post it and bore/hone afterwards
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegasaurus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whatever, no need to argue... you guys can do what you want - the man just asked for my opinion, and i stated he should post it and bore/hone afterwards
</TD></TR></TABLE>
hey no prob, i'm not looking 4 a fight - everyone's entitled to their own opinions
</TD></TR></TABLE>hey no prob, i'm not looking 4 a fight - everyone's entitled to their own opinions
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Maddhatcher »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is some good info.
Thanks guys.
Soon to be Turbo Y8 with a Garrett GT28 Ball Bearing in a 91 hatch.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Definetly keep us updated on that!
Thanks guys.
Soon to be Turbo Y8 with a Garrett GT28 Ball Bearing in a 91 hatch.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Definetly keep us updated on that!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turboracer01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So Sounds like Posting is the thing to do if you need to go the low budget way. Right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its no tthat its low budget, its more like the smart way. but hey if you want to waist your money on a block guard, go right ahead,,,,lol
Its no tthat its low budget, its more like the smart way. but hey if you want to waist your money on a block guard, go right ahead,,,,lol
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