boostnubII

My crank got stripped when my keyway chewed up now the crank has to be replaced, and i also need a valve job on the head...

my general question is....

-=can the crank be replaced from the bottom end WITHOUT removing the motor from the car if the car is lifted in a shop?=-

while replacing the crank i will be putting in new bearings as well... i think this will be a better bet rather then replacing the WHOLE bottom end... cheaper too... and i get to keep my forged internals...
is this possible?

HNLV

yes i crank can be removed with out removing the motor

boostnubII

then why was my local shop trying to tell me to just replace the ENTIRE BOTTOM END.... why would they just not replace the crank... how much labor would it be to just replace the crank...


Fuccin' pos shop... these are the charges they were trying to tax me with...

valve job and new head gasket $300

motor drop AFTER i bring them a new bottom end(that i gotta pay for and get myself) $700

i ahve been dealing with these guys for about a year or more so far... why would they try and do this to me?

Topdawgg

if you have any knowledge whatsoever about how an engine works, you could replace the crank with the motor still in... its not hard..

0xenocron

those prices really arent all that bad

by the time you get the head off and the oil pan and crank out, might as well just remove the whole bottom end too.

measuring clearences when putting in the new crank and sizing the bearings is a lot harder to do when the motor isnt on a stand

Forrest Gump 9

Yeah, you can remove the crank with the engine in the car. But how the hell you gonna spec the crank and bearings when you put the crank back in? If you worry about money, just replace the whole longblock and sell your old longblock as parts.

Andy R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo9Nut &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just replace the whole longblock and sell your old longblock as parts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

harhoosh

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Topdawgg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have any knowledge whatsoever about how an engine works, you could replace the crank with the motor still in... its not hard..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont know, but what you will do with the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate?

Topdawgg

transmission will have to be dropped... but the engine doesnt have to come out.... TECHNICALLY...

i wouldnt wanna do it this way, id just haul the whole thing out..

b18sihatch

its possible but could be a real bitch

urbansi

Yeah its very possible, but honestly just easier to remove everything. I have removed many a Honda motors and honestly i think i get can get them out in about 20 minutes now... Just do it correctly and be done with it.

boostnubII

i dont understand replacing the whole -=shortblock=- (gsr head/ b20 bottom) my scat pistons costed damn near as much as the b20 block itself, does that seem like a bad idea to anyone else? it will cost me $649 for the b20 longblock when all i need is the crank, then i will have to pay a builder to put back the NEW forged internals, size rings,....

...this rout sounds more logical...
-remove motor (myself)
-new commetic head gasket (car is FI)
-replace crank ONLY
-replace bearings
-change clutch (since tranny is already off)
-valve job on head


Turbo9Nut, Andy R...im not being a smart ***... but why would it be logical to sell old shortblock and get a new one that WOULD have to be rebuilt... keep in mind, im not the smartest person, but it just doesn't make sence personally

urbansi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostnubII &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> keep in mind, im not the smartest person, but it just doesn't make sence personally</TD></TR></TABLE>

You should have put that in the first post, i would have stopped reading it right away.

boostnubII

i just talked to an engine builder... he also states that buying a new block is pointless IF i already have internals in the old block... he suggests a re-build if there is no permanent damage done to the block *(less then likely)

urbansi

Lol, sorry i couldnt help myself after that remark.
But its just that keeping the motor in the car is just kinda causing yourself more trouble than its worth. The easiest thing to do is pull the motor, re-ring it and hone it, throw in new bearings and a crank and put it back in.

boostnubII

i agree... the motor will be pulled.. i was just trying to get around the fact that the shop was gonna charge me $700 for a new drop... i can do that **** myself... just need a picker...

another question... the B18 and B20 cranks are different correct.... i must use a b20 crank when re-assembeling this motor right?

might as well get the pcv valve put back in as well and get rid of some of this crank case pressure... any idea why my last builder capped off the pcv valve in the first place? i would ask him... but he's dead
(motor build is gsr/b20 vtec turbo)

Forrest Gump 9

well, the fact that you are pickering about the price make me think that you're tight on money. And even though you have the internal in your stock b20 block, I don't think it gonna help. On the b20, the weakness is the sleeve, not pistons or rods. You probably crack the sleeve before anything else. So just pop a stock b20 shortblock back in you car and make it run. Did you ask how much all that work gonna cost you at the shop?

boostnubII

good point... i will be getting an estimate from the shop tomorrow afternoon... IF its not cheaper then just purchasing a stock b20 block i will be going that route... i will update the thread after i talk to the shop... btw... i am kinna tight on cash... trying to get my 3" piping and Walbro also BUT the other weakness in the b20 is the rod bolts... not just sleeves


Modified by boostnubII at 8:29 PM 11/8/2006