I am still in the process of planning my Project...... I am having a b18b block sleeved to 84.5mm by Goledn Eagle, I plan on Eagle rods, Endyn Pistons, and a whole bunch of other stuff.

I plan on using a B16a2 or a3 head. Is it worth the money to have it p & p by PortFlow? Or is the a better company to do the head work. How much Hp and Torque would I gain with all of that work done to the head.

Just the port & polish its self is like $750, then I would ger over sized valves, titanium retainers, and all the other stuff. It would easily add up to over $1000, is it worth it???

 

I don't think it's going to be anything dramatic, if you're spending so much money may as well go FI.

 

I am going FI. I asked what the HP gains would be in a FI application, I thought it was self explanatory so I didn't list the Turbo setup I plan on.

Turbo setup:
MaxRev "kit"
Hondat 3b
RC 550's
Walbro Fuelpump

And Much Much More!

 

Give him a break.. he's a post *****.. posts 40.5 posts per day. He's bound to mis-read something!

To answer your question, yes, P&P will help alot. Since you're going FI, dont have them worry about air velocity that much cuz boost will take car of that. Have them give you larger ports. Try extrude honing your intake manifold and port-match your exhaust and intake manifilds to the head. I wished I can give you numbers, but generally, opening up the intake and head will benefit alot in FI if done correctly. If you dont have the money to do it, the cost/benefit might not be appealing to you.

That $750 quote for just a P&P seems pretty high to me.. try shopping around more. Titanium retainers, and stiffer springs will be nice if you plan on increasing your redline and you're looking for a "race engine." For a street application, stick to either stock or a slight P&P job.. shouldn't cost more than $350 without replacing anything.


[Modified by Rob92SC, 10:49 PM 12/17/2001]

 

I would personally talk to Endyn about porting your head. He does some awesome porting and valve sizing.

 

Do you know Endyns prices? I couldn't find them on the site.

 

a) unless done correctly... a p&p'd head CAN actually make u lose power... but for the everyday person... u dont really need it... p&p imo is one of the last things that needs to get done

b)i wouldnt trust endyn with a bag of my own ****

 

So the stock B16 head w/GSR cams, Crower valves, Crower Retaiers, Crower Springs will do me just fine and dandy?


[Modified by BLK94RS, 6:06 AM 12/18/2001]

 

that would be fine... IF i was you... i would put in manley or supertech ss valves, and web springs and retainers... thats just me though... oh and i would spend a few more $ and get itr cams at least... but the setup u have in mind also sounds good... havent heard much first hand so i wouldnt want to comment...

 

http://www.alaniztechnologies.com/
Joe Alaniz, an ex-DPR headporter, does awesome headwork from what i've heard. $580 for full head work.

 

I heard that the ITR cams are a little to wild for boost??? I heard that wish so much lift, the boost pretty much blows through one valve and out the other. I was under the impression that the GSR cam was the best suted OEM cam for forced indution.

Does Manley, Supertech, and Web have websites?

 

I was thinking about what both TOM and BLK94RS, I have heard that cams meant for NA performance wont work well for FI applications (long duration & high overlap = a lot of reversion)

But there are Type R folks running FI on their stock ITR cams so maybe they're not so bad. So if they work for the ITR folks.... but if he's already got the GSR cams would it be necessary to get the ITR cams?

I don't know which cams he's already got, I'm just trying to satisfy my own curiousity.


[Modified by BlueShadow, 6:22 PM 12/18/2001]

 

I don't have any cams yet, or head, block or anything else for that matter. I will be starting everything in about a month when I buy the block. Im going to buy a complete differnt block to work with because I cannot afford to be without my car for so long with the engine out, I would also like to beable to take my time building the bottom end and just have fun with it. I was planning on the GSR cams bacause they seem to do well with boost, and they are very affordable. I have seen many, many sets of very new GSR's for around $100 a set. That seems very reasonable for me, until I get Cams designed for forced indution when I can afford them.


[Modified by BLK94RS, 10:19 PM 12/18/2001]

 

You and I are in similar situations. I am getting the max rev "kit" and building up a new block and head to swap in so I won't have much down time. I personally looked into head work and will be getting a race built b16a2 head done in January. I'm going with Ferrea stainless steal 1mm oversized valves, Eibach 10k RPM dual springs, crower titanium retainers, port and polish, port match both manifolds, and 3 angle valve job. My local shop is doing all the work. Total with parts and labor is running me about a $1000. I got a hell of a deal.

 

That is one hell of a deal. The only problem is there is only one person in my area who will even touch a Honda head and I don't think his is quilifed to do a port and polish. If I do have it port and polished I will send the head to a very repital company like Portflow, or JG.

What Block, pistons, and rods are you going with Mugen?

 

b16a2 block, JE 9:1 oversized pistons, crower rods. The block is going to be sent to golden eagle to be worked over. I'm not sparing any expense here. I want a full race built engine that can handle 28psi.