I've read a thread that mentioned this, whats it about?

 

Forged rods and pistons don't necessitate oil squirters, so many people reduce the moving parts/valves/mess by plugging them - which also increases systemic oil pressure.

Eagle just came out with a kit for it and, if I do say so myself, it looks hawt.

 

Ok i understand, so this is not some thing i need to do as im building my motor as soon as my pistons come. Might be a stupid question but why dont the forged pistons and rods not need as much lubrication?

 

is there any advantage to this besides increased oil pressure.

any side effect ?

platinum.

 

mike is a PIMP

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crispydee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok i understand, so this is not some thing i need to do as im building my motor as soon as my pistons come. Might be a stupid question but why dont the forged pistons and rods not need as much lubrication?</TD></TR></TABLE>

its not a lubrication issue as much as it is a cooling issue with the oil squirters from what i have heard. The forged pistons dissipate heat more easily than the stock pistons, thus not necessarily needing the extra oil being sprayed to cool them.

plus it eliminates some aireation &lt;spelling?&gt; of the oil, making the whole oil system perform better, not to boot it raises the oil pressure which is even better.

 

golden eagle has plugs now that are the same pitch and thread as the holes. that way you dont have to tap the holes, clean metal shaving, put in pipe taps, all that crap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jared &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">golden eagle has plugs now that are the same pitch and thread as the holes. that way you dont have to tap the holes, clean metal shaving, put in pipe taps, all that crap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn, I just paid earl $50 to do that along with my other engine work. .

 

bahhh, i kept mine in all my blocks and worked fine

 

on some built motors the pistons or rods (cant remember which) can hit the oil squriters. Best way to do it: Get yourself a 1/8" NPT tap and 4 1/8" NPT aluminum plugs. Rethred the holes with the tap, put some selant on the plugs and screw them into the newly tapped hole. Est. time, 30min at most

 

no best way is to buy those plugs from GE i think somewhere around 10 bucks

 

Here you go: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1081578

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snoochtodanooch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its not a lubrication issue as much as it is a cooling issue with the oil squirters from what i have heard. The forged pistons dissipate heat more easily than the stock pistons, thus not necessarily needing the extra oil being sprayed to cool them. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Werd.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snoochtodanooch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">plus it eliminates some aireation &lt;spelling?&gt; of the oil, making the whole oil system perform better, not to boot it raises the oil pressure which is even better.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you talking about the froathing (foaming) oil does when you agitate it? (as in it helps eliminate some of that?)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Unsivil_audio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Are you talking about the froathing (foaming) oil does when you agitate it? (as in it helps eliminate some of that?) </TD></TR></TABLE>
yea, same concept as using a dry sump system.

 

better yet, just take off the squirters, cut off the angled nipples and weld the holes shut on the plugs and tighten them back into the treaded holes.. total cost.. FREE... or u can just go w/ GE..