litterbox

Hey,

When you all talk about building the bottom end for high boost, do you just mean installing stronger pistons and connecting rods and the like? What are all the parts that need to be replaced in a built bottom end?

Also, what are forged internals?

EDIT: Soo noob.

Thanks alot guys.

Group Tenacity

Most of the time, building the bottom end incudes re-sleving the block, pistons, rods and some machine work may be nessisary... all depends on the motor and the goals of the owner...

Mike...

litterbox

My goals are to handle 12psi daily, and 18-20psi racing on a d16z6 or y8. I'm concerned as to how much I can do on my own. How much would a shop charge to install new sleeves?

What are the main characteristics of turbo pistons? Are they just lower compression pistons? Or are they made of different material? How are the rods different?

What other machine work is needed?

pushthegashitafatass

well i feel safe running 9.0:1 pistons but i remeber reading of a guy running 11.5:1 on a turbo motor running like 12 or 13 psi constantly on a small gt series turbo (sick ****)

Benjithx

Take a look at the block i am selling. Very much built for boost. bullet proof and sleeved by the best. I know this is a shameless plug, but this is what you are looking for.

mike93eh

what exactly would you guys reccomend for a d15b7 boosting 10-12psi?

mrDFWmechanic

some pistons and rods at least just to play it safe

litterbox

Basically, what I'm looking for is a link that explains the essentials of "building" a block. I'm currently reading Maximum Boost, but I need something that helps me understand the engine part of a turbo car.

quickcarl

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My goals are to handle 12psi daily, and 18-20psi racing on a d16z6 or y8. I'm concerned as to how much I can do on my own. How much would a shop charge to install new sleeves?

What are the main characteristics of turbo pistons? Are they just lower compression pistons? Or are they made of different material? How are the rods different?

What other machine work is needed?</TD></TR></TABLE> The stock rods and pistons in most factory motors are cast ( a process where metal is poured into a mold). The forged aftermarket pistons and rods are forged, which is a process where the metal is heated and pressed under extreme pressure to an approximate shape. This gives you a more dense (compacted) material and a grain structure that flows in the proper direction for strength. The rods are usually a better 4340 material and the pistons are a 2618 material. The higher end rods are called Billet, due to being machined on all surfaces after the forging process and the cheaper rods are only machined on the big and small ends. The smoother surface of a billet rod will lower the risk of a stress crack from forming. It is always adviseable to spend as much as you can afford to sleeve the block and buy quality pistons and rods, since this is insurance against a failure after you've spent a lot of money on all the other parts. Definetly use aftermarket valve springs and retainers when adding a turbo to a factory NA motor.

litterbox

Are there turbo specific valve springs and retainers out there?

notoriousB

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Benjithx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Take a look at the block i am selling. Very much built for boost. bullet proof and sleeved by the best. I know this is a shameless plug, but this is what you are looking for. </TD></TR></TABLE>
man you're whoring the hell out of that block!!

quickcarl

The springs are usually matched to the cam from the manufacturer. If you are running stock cams, the manufacturer will recommend a part number. The aftermarket moly retainers will work at a lower cost or Titanium are more expensive, but lighter for higher RPM's. The goal is to increase the spring pressure to ensure the valve will close against the intake boost pressure verses a vacuum on the NA factory set-up.

tgreaves

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My goals are to handle 12psi daily, and 18-20psi racing on a d16z6 or y8.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why are your goals to handle a certant psi??? Why not shoot for a certant hp rating and run whatever boost is required to get there..

litterbox

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tgreaves &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why are your goals to handle a certant psi??? Why not shoot for a certant hp rating and run whatever boost is required to get there..</TD></TR></TABLE>Sorry, I actually learned today that I should be talking hp numbers. So, I want 230-240whp daily and 330-350whp at the track.

tgreaves

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry, I actually learned today that I should be talking hp numbers. So, I want 230-240whp daily and 330-350whp at the track.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would say to get forged rods and pistons and either post the block or use a block guard for that power range.. You could sleeve it for more insurance but I dont think youll need to..

litterbox

I'm not gonna sleeve it because I just can't afford it. I'll get a block guard. I was comparing the GE and Race Eng. guards and the only difference I could find was that the Race eng. had more holes for coolant flow.

Does one work better than the other?