Doing the bottom end:
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From: Virginia
Doing the bottom end:
Welp, i'm having my block sleeved over xmas break.
I was pondering going with a 89 bore and 9.5:1 pistons. (for moderate boost in the future).
opinions on piston brands or anything else? rods?
I was pondering going with a 89 bore and 9.5:1 pistons. (for moderate boost in the future).
opinions on piston brands or anything else? rods?
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From: yo mammas house, NC
Re: Doing the bottom end: (Crate)
do not, i repeat DO NOT go to 89mm on the first build....
if you go 89mm the first time, and something happens, you scar a sleeve, your FUCKED, there goes another G on re-sleeving. if you stay with 87mm for now, and something breaks, you take it to a machine shop and they bore it out, cost ya liek 50 bux for the work, plus you'll hafta buy new pistons, but if you do something to damge the cylinder walls, your gonna need new pistons anyways
if you go 89mm the first time, and something happens, you scar a sleeve, your FUCKED, there goes another G on re-sleeving. if you stay with 87mm for now, and something breaks, you take it to a machine shop and they bore it out, cost ya liek 50 bux for the work, plus you'll hafta buy new pistons, but if you do something to damge the cylinder walls, your gonna need new pistons anyways
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From: On the Prowl, Mo
Re: Doing the bottom end: (Crate)
je pistons, swain tech coated( if you plan on boosting 
)
crower rods
i dont know about that big of a bore though,
don't leave ya much room for error
)crower rods
i dont know about that big of a bore though,
don't leave ya much room for error
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From: Purple Prelude, DE
Re: Doing the bottom end: (Crate)
Swain tech shmain tech...... baah, don't need it, yea sure it helps, but not necessary......
CP or JE pistons...... i like pauter rods...... check out gude's setup, or country boys when the crank isn't fubar....... they have what you want
CP or JE pistons...... i like pauter rods...... check out gude's setup, or country boys when the crank isn't fubar....... they have what you want
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From: Virginia
Re: Doing the bottom end: (spoolinlude)
hrmm.. my brother in law is sponcered by Gude as well as he said he can get me SRP pistons for 350 bux.
i also think i'm gonna go N/A instead... as much as i'd like to boost.. in the future this car is going to be a autox vehicle. soo i'd rather stay N/A..
i also think i'm gonna go N/A instead... as much as i'd like to boost.. in the future this car is going to be a autox vehicle. soo i'd rather stay N/A..
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From: yo mammas house, NC
Re: Doing the bottom end: (Crate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hrmm.. my brother in law is sponcered by Gude as well as he said he can get me SRP pistons for 350 bux. </TD></TR></TABLE> he meant for you to alk to anthony (GudeH23a)
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I live under a rock
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From: Purple Prelude, DE
Re: Doing the bottom end: (Turbo Sam)
yep sorry for the clarity..... i mean GudeH23A...... i never thought anyone would actually think to call gude about a bottom end..... let alone be sponsored, which is very cool
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From: Charleston, SC
Re: Doing the bottom end: (Turbo Sam)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo Sam »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do not, i repeat DO NOT go to 89mm on the first build....
if you go 89mm the first time, and something happens, you scar a sleeve, your FUCKED, there goes another G on re-sleeving. if you stay with 87mm for now, and something breaks, you take it to a machine shop and they bore it out, cost ya liek 50 bux for the work, plus you'll hafta buy new pistons, but if you do something to damge the cylinder walls, your gonna need new pistons anyways
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Word to the mother ****** right there. I'm glad more people are listening to the advice I give out. Most H series shelf pistons are 20 over, so run those. Customs are a bit more expensive, trust me.
As far as piston brand, I was told to run CP's by john out at race engineering. I have been EXTREMELY pleased with the pistons. I have also sent the pistons to Swain Tech for a top gold coat and pc-9 side skirt coating. The coatings help prevent hot spots and allow you to safely run a bit more horsepower without risking detonation. http://www.swaintech.com/race.html Go there and read up on the coatings, I could go on for days about the specifics of them.
The one downside of the coatings is that Swain Tech does not properly cure the coatings. So the pistons are shipped to you in nitrogen filled bags with a nice little note that says 'Warning: Pistons may become tacky when exposed to humid conditions or temperatures above XXX degrees." So basically the deal is once they leave the plastic nitrogen filled baggie they need to be up and running in 2-3 days so they properly cure while the motor is running. Let me tell you how much fun it was putting together a motor completely disassembled and have it up and running in 2 days flat.
As far as Gude goes, Bah Hum Bug. My new name will be PortFlowH23a in the near future.
if you go 89mm the first time, and something happens, you scar a sleeve, your FUCKED, there goes another G on re-sleeving. if you stay with 87mm for now, and something breaks, you take it to a machine shop and they bore it out, cost ya liek 50 bux for the work, plus you'll hafta buy new pistons, but if you do something to damge the cylinder walls, your gonna need new pistons anyways
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Word to the mother ****** right there. I'm glad more people are listening to the advice I give out. Most H series shelf pistons are 20 over, so run those. Customs are a bit more expensive, trust me.
As far as piston brand, I was told to run CP's by john out at race engineering. I have been EXTREMELY pleased with the pistons. I have also sent the pistons to Swain Tech for a top gold coat and pc-9 side skirt coating. The coatings help prevent hot spots and allow you to safely run a bit more horsepower without risking detonation. http://www.swaintech.com/race.html Go there and read up on the coatings, I could go on for days about the specifics of them.
The one downside of the coatings is that Swain Tech does not properly cure the coatings. So the pistons are shipped to you in nitrogen filled bags with a nice little note that says 'Warning: Pistons may become tacky when exposed to humid conditions or temperatures above XXX degrees." So basically the deal is once they leave the plastic nitrogen filled baggie they need to be up and running in 2-3 days so they properly cure while the motor is running. Let me tell you how much fun it was putting together a motor completely disassembled and have it up and running in 2 days flat.
As far as Gude goes, Bah Hum Bug. My new name will be PortFlowH23a in the near future.
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From: yo mammas house, NC
Re: Doing the bottom end: (GudeH23a)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GudeH23a »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm glad more people are listening to the advice I give out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
dont flatter yourself be-atch!! i've been around V8s for years, my bro-in-law races a mustang on a circle track. i've know the drill for quite some time :middle finger:
dont flatter yourself be-atch!! i've been around V8s for years, my bro-in-law races a mustang on a circle track. i've know the drill for quite some time :middle finger:
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From: Virginia
Re: Doing the bottom end: (Turbo Sam)
i didnt think Gude did bottom ends =]
those options you mentioned are options for me in June when i had my job... Money is VERY much an issue right now. I hate that. (i'll have my bs in may... damn that piece of paper).
thanks for the info again! i'll be looking into all of them.
those options you mentioned are options for me in June when i had my job... Money is VERY much an issue right now. I hate that. (i'll have my bs in may... damn that piece of paper).
thanks for the info again! i'll be looking into all of them.
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Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Virginia
Re: Doing the bottom end: (Crate)
also, i can run stock rods/pistons on a sleeved block correct? I don't think im going to have the money to buy pistons/rods just yet. But i'm going to still be getting it sleeved.. i know its stupid to not do it while its open.. but the fact of the matter is i just don't have the $.
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From: Purple Prelude, DE
Re: Doing the bottom end: (Turbo Sam)
I'd just wiat then........ you're just gonna blow it up running boost on a stock piston.... And there's the reason I don't use coated pistons, well that and when I asked about it SOMEONE didn't get back to me, a good tune will get rid of detonation........
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From: Charleston, SC
Re: Doing the bottom end: (Turbo Sam)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo Sam »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i've been around V8s for years, my bro-in-law races a mustang on a circle track. i've know the drill for quite some time :middle finger: </TD></TR></TABLE>
I found a picture of your brother in law
i've been around V8s for years, my bro-in-law races a mustang on a circle track. i've know the drill for quite some time :middle finger:
</TD></TR></TABLE>I found a picture of your brother in law
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From: On the Prowl, Mo
Re: Doing the bottom end: (MordecaiPSI)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MordecaiPSI »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go lower compression im my opinion. Id say 8:1 or 8.5:1 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah but his car will run like dog **** untill
he boosts
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yeah but his car will run like dog **** untill
he boosts
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From: Flowery Branch, Ga
What's moderate boost to you?
IMO, you should not drop the CR to anything lower than 9.0:1 if you're runnin up to 15psi. Otherwise, your motor will be a dog when not in boost.
Dropping the CR will raise the limit of how much boost you can run w/o detonating or making it near-impossible to tune. If you are not coming near to the limit of detonation, you are wasting power and driveability b/c your CR is too low, and you will lose a bit of HP-per-psi.
IMO, you should not drop the CR to anything lower than 9.0:1 if you're runnin up to 15psi. Otherwise, your motor will be a dog when not in boost.
Dropping the CR will raise the limit of how much boost you can run w/o detonating or making it near-impossible to tune. If you are not coming near to the limit of detonation, you are wasting power and driveability b/c your CR is too low, and you will lose a bit of HP-per-psi.
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