overheating: guage inside car, what does it take temp of??
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overheating: guage inside car, what does it take temp of??
yes ive tried searching... and nothing helps me with my situation..
i recently went boosted (this is prolly the second day or so) and it only starting overheating now... but the radiator seems on the cold side...
when i opened the oil cap though, smoke came out of that...
anyone know how i can solve this.? another logic i came across is my intercooler now blocks the radiator.... so that could be causing it.. how do i wire the fan so that its always on..??
anything else i should check for..???
i recently went boosted (this is prolly the second day or so) and it only starting overheating now... but the radiator seems on the cold side...
when i opened the oil cap though, smoke came out of that...
anyone know how i can solve this.? another logic i came across is my intercooler now blocks the radiator.... so that could be causing it.. how do i wire the fan so that its always on..??
anything else i should check for..???
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Re: overheating: guage inside car, what does it take temp of?? (Cuda)
First make sure you have enough coolant and if so then I would start by replacing the thermostat. Good luck.
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Re: overheating: guage inside car, what does it take temp of?? (Cuda)
Sounds like you have air in your cooling system, you need to bleed the air out so it will circulate properly. That's why the engine is hot and the rad. is not.
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Re: overheating: guage inside car, what does it take temp of?? (Cuda)
Before I made a proper shroud for my 'gangsta lean' EG rad in my EF, it would overheat if I really pushed it. But the radiator was freaking hot. Like Tony said, bleed your system, its probably air. Last non-Honda I replaced a HG on wasn't fully blead until I ran it on the freeway for the 5th time.
Also make sure your heater hoses are routed properly to the t-stat housing. That can occationally create issues. As for the temp reading, I believe its one of the sensors under the distributor in the top of the head. Its designed to get a ''final' ECT after its past cylinder 4.
Also make sure your heater hoses are routed properly to the t-stat housing. That can occationally create issues. As for the temp reading, I believe its one of the sensors under the distributor in the top of the head. Its designed to get a ''final' ECT after its past cylinder 4.
#6
Re: overheating: guage inside car, what does it take temp of?? (Cuda)
In addition to everything said above, esp. if it's a d-series the head may be lifting, and allowing exhaust to get into the coolant. If you removed your a/c or don't have a shroud covering the area where the a/c condenser would go, you should find a stock plastic block-off piece or make one out of aluminum or even polycarbonate so that the air actually flows through the radiator instead of around it. If you can't seem to fix the problem after trying what's been stated above, you may want to pull the head and see if there are any signs of exhaust passing into the coolant, esp. on the back side of cylinders 3 and 4. After making a shroud and making sure the fan's kicking on, system is bled properly etc., if it's still overheating you might need a new head gasket / head studs.
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Re: overheating: guage inside car, what does it take temp of?? (eastbay92cx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eastbay92cx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">f you removed your a/c or don't have a shroud covering the area where the a/c condenser would go, you should find a stock plastic block-off piece or make one out of aluminum or even polycarbonate so that the air actually flows through the radiator instead of around it. After making a shroud and making sure the fan's kicking on, system is bled properly etc., if it's still overheating you might need a new head gasket / head studs.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont really understand that part you just wrote...
changed thermostat and refilled with coolant... seemed to be fine.... for now anyway..
head gasket is new... waterpump is new...
i dont really understand that part you just wrote...
changed thermostat and refilled with coolant... seemed to be fine.... for now anyway..
head gasket is new... waterpump is new...
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#8
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Re: overheating: guage inside car, what does it take temp of?? (Cuda)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cuda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i dont really understand that part you just wrote..</TD></TR></TABLE>
its easier for the air to travel around the radiator as opposed to flowing through it......
i dont really understand that part you just wrote..</TD></TR></TABLE>
its easier for the air to travel around the radiator as opposed to flowing through it......
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oh ma i feel like such a noob.. cuz im still scratching my head and i dont get it...
what about the ac..?? and what about air flowing..??
well the highest the temp guage got this time was halfway.... which im guessing logically is normal because turbos make more heat than NA right..??
i'll switch over to my triple core radiator later... after i gwet a mounting kit...
what about the ac..?? and what about air flowing..??
well the highest the temp guage got this time was halfway.... which im guessing logically is normal because turbos make more heat than NA right..??
i'll switch over to my triple core radiator later... after i gwet a mounting kit...
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Re: (Cuda)
I once had an overheating problem where the overflow tank would be full of coolant, but the radiator would be running low. Finally found out it was because the little hose inside the overflow bottle had detatched from the fitting in the top of the cap.
#11
Re: (Cuda)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cuda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh ma i feel like such a noob.. cuz im still scratching my head and i dont get it...
what about the ac..?? and what about air flowing..??
well the highest the temp guage got this time was halfway.... which im guessing logically is normal because turbos make more heat than NA right..??
i'll switch over to my triple core radiator later... after i gwet a mounting kit...</TD></TR></TABLE>
A. Do you have AC? if so don't worry about what he said.
If not.. and the ac condensor is not present (it's the second radiator with the AC lines next to the normal radiator for the coolant)... You need to block off that open space (where the AC condensor was/would have been) this forces air to flow through the radiator instead of it taking the path of least resistance through the gapping hole where the AC condesor was/would have been.
But frankly don't worry about that right now... chacnes are you just have air in your cooling system...
1. Turn your heater control **** to full hot and turn on the fan motor to full blast.
2. Get the car upto operating temperature with the radiator cap OFF the radiator.
3. Fill the radiator till it's full
4. open the air bleed valve on the coolant exit from the head.
5. wait for all the bubbles to work themselves out of the air bleed valve... once it is flowing coolant out of it with no bubbles retighten
6. refill the radiator if needed
7. ensure there is some coolant in the resivoir in between the min/max lines.
That SHOULD clear out any air... sometimes you need to let the Tstat open a few times before it all gets worked out.
Are both hoses hot and the radiator is cold? is only the upper hose hot?
In order to run the fan full time you simply jump the connector... it's connected into the tstat housing and it's a 2 prong connector you just run a piece of wire so the 2 wires are connected... that will trigger the fan and keep it on as long as those two wires are connected. (normally the connection is made when a certain temperature is reached).
Good Luck
what about the ac..?? and what about air flowing..??
well the highest the temp guage got this time was halfway.... which im guessing logically is normal because turbos make more heat than NA right..??
i'll switch over to my triple core radiator later... after i gwet a mounting kit...</TD></TR></TABLE>
A. Do you have AC? if so don't worry about what he said.
If not.. and the ac condensor is not present (it's the second radiator with the AC lines next to the normal radiator for the coolant)... You need to block off that open space (where the AC condensor was/would have been) this forces air to flow through the radiator instead of it taking the path of least resistance through the gapping hole where the AC condesor was/would have been.
But frankly don't worry about that right now... chacnes are you just have air in your cooling system...
1. Turn your heater control **** to full hot and turn on the fan motor to full blast.
2. Get the car upto operating temperature with the radiator cap OFF the radiator.
3. Fill the radiator till it's full
4. open the air bleed valve on the coolant exit from the head.
5. wait for all the bubbles to work themselves out of the air bleed valve... once it is flowing coolant out of it with no bubbles retighten
6. refill the radiator if needed
7. ensure there is some coolant in the resivoir in between the min/max lines.
That SHOULD clear out any air... sometimes you need to let the Tstat open a few times before it all gets worked out.
Are both hoses hot and the radiator is cold? is only the upper hose hot?
In order to run the fan full time you simply jump the connector... it's connected into the tstat housing and it's a 2 prong connector you just run a piece of wire so the 2 wires are connected... that will trigger the fan and keep it on as long as those two wires are connected. (normally the connection is made when a certain temperature is reached).
Good Luck
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